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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-13-2013 08:35 AM
496CHEVY3100 Just my opinion you should not have to worry about smaller mounting surface with the shim because the converter bolts will support the outer edge and reduce or stop wobble after you install shim ,,even with only a light rub from balance weight you run the risk of damaging front pump in trans .Just my opinion. I would use the shim.
07-13-2013 08:09 AM
stratt134
Quote:
Originally Posted by meldrum View Post
I believe the problem relates to a lack of shims between the flexplate and crankshaft, resulting in twisting or warping your flexplate.

Yes, TCI 399273 flexplate. Question - the old eagle crank had the large counterweight on it; the new one does not - will that be an issue? (I thought this was an "internally balanced" Eagle 383 stroker kit?) 1974 350 block, 2 piece rear main seal.

I looked last night and thought for sure it needed to be shimmed. Took a closer look this morning and I'm not so sure. Check out the pictures, and a new video with a better angle




Old Eagle flexplate:







new flexplate, TCI # 399273 pictures:









To me it looks like it is just barely hitting... probably need those shims - although, I like the idea of the larger mounting surface without the shims...

There's definitely a clearance difference between the new TCI flexplate, compared to the oil pattern on the old Eagle flexplate...

Thanks again for all the help
07-12-2013 04:38 PM
NEW INTERIORS That starter sure looks like it's moving... More so on the inside bolt..
07-12-2013 02:23 PM
Crosley I will point out that for many years on automatic type fly wheels there is one hole that is small OE size, then the 2 others are larger.

This was done so the R&R guy could bolt down tight the small hole bolt to the converter, then rotate the engine and install bolts , then tighten them as he went... suppose to save time.
07-12-2013 12:14 PM
stratt134 Meldrum,

AWESOME info, thank you very much. I will definitely check to see if the flexplate is hitting the counterweight on the crank. If so, I will shim accordingly.

Thanks again for the advice, very much appreciated
07-12-2013 10:25 AM
meldrum
Flexplate shimming

Hello Stratt134,

I watched your video of the flexplate movement many times; you stated that the flexplate seems to be "wobbly".

I believe the problem relates to a lack of shims between the flexplate and crankshaft, resulting in twisting or warping your flexplate.

From your pictures I observed the following-you can tell me if they are incorrect.

1. Your first picture shows a 168 tooth flexplate, #399273 which appears to be the correct according to TCI site.
2. Picture 2 suggests your Eagle crank is 2 piece rear seal, judging from the counterweight flange at approximately 6 o'clock.
3. Pictures 1 and 2 appear to show that the flexplate section which bolts to the crank is recessed, probably .030" to .060"
4. Assuming there is a recessed area between the flexplate and crank, the flexplate will touch the crank counterweight first and will not sit squarely on the flange which will make the flexplate "wobbly".
5.In addition the bolts will not secure the flexplate to the crank due to a lack of mating service. If the flexplate is not bolted "flat" you will experience loose bolts, cracked centers and broken starters.
6. If the flexplate is not "true", it will not attach correctly/flush to the converter either.

I believe you need to add shims between the crank and flexplate as shown here:
Chevrolet Flexplate Shim - TCIŽ Auto

I can't comment on whether the starter itself is an issue. You will have to determine if it is properly attached, bolted and braced.

Looking forward to your response.
Regards,
Meldrum
07-11-2013 08:41 AM
stratt134 I got the new TCI Flexplate in, and removed the old one. The old one was definitely warped. I'll take the blame for that. Anyways, the new Flexplate seems much stronger, so I'll take it as an upgrade. And the new converter; 400 rpm higher stall to help with the cam, and the bolts are threaded into this converter, instead of using nuts like the last one. Should be a huge improvement. Also found the vac line for the TH350 trans had a huge hole in it Might run a lot better when I fix that too





Here is video of the new setup in action. Seems a little wobbly to me, but I guess I'll take it (?)



07-10-2013 08:42 PM
496CHEVY3100 by the photo it looks like some one installed wrong converter to flex plate ,when buying new flexplate get the one with dual bolt holes ,6 holes there on a different bolt circle,then you can turn converter to match correct bolt holes

Also you don't have to buy the high dollar starters just buy a 4.3 v6 standard starter ,sane as a nini starter gives lots more room.a have one on my 496 BBC no problems hot or cold ,,most all local racers use them now,,lots cheaper .mine is a staggered bolt ,don't know if the make one for straight across bolts but most blocks have 3 holes so you can run either to match flywheel the 168 tooth flywheel uses the staggered bolt starter.= the 153 most will use either but the strait across usually work without any shims
07-02-2013 08:23 AM
stratt134 I unbolted the torque converter to check the flexplate one more time. I measured again, and the flexplate is out-of-round by a good .040". Looks like I'm ordering a new flexplate and bigger converter while it is out. Here are some pictures of the bolt holes on the flexplate:



06-28-2013 07:12 AM
dogwater Just for future info. a straighten out paper clip should just fit between the teeth ( when engaged) of the flywheel an starter gear.
06-27-2013 11:53 AM
NEW INTERIORS If you do happen to pull the trans or motor to change the fly wheel,, Check the back side of the crank and make sure they don't have a pilot shaft bushing inside the back of the fly wheel... Does the converter side forward without pulling with the bolts ?? Seen where someone didn't take out the bushing and tryed installing a automatic trans before... Just something else to check if you have the trans out..
06-27-2013 11:35 AM
stratt134 Looks like the bolts don't have washers on them and may have got pulled through the holes a bit. The flywheel was out of round more than .040 after measuring this morning
06-27-2013 08:11 AM
NEW INTERIORS Sounds good..

stratt134..The Flexplate/converter bolts was brought up at the begaining of this thread.. Not sure if you missed that or not... If they are tighten wrong it can cause problems..
06-27-2013 07:33 AM
stratt134
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
I think I would have taken the cheaper way out,, But That's you... Now try clamping a piece on metal very close to the fly wheels without touching it and turn it by hand and watch the gap between the F/w And the metal and see how much it's out of round.. That will tell you better...
Yes I will do that today as well. I'm glad to have the new starter, mainly b/c their is no nose-cone on it so much easier for me to set the gap correctly, or at least check it in multiple locations.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
If you tightened one of three fasteners, that would have been the torque converter to the flexplate. There are two types of converter to flexplate bolts- one uses a bolt and nut, the other uses a bolt into threaded holes in the converter- which may be the one you have. If that's the case, I would loosen all three and retighten them in stages to a final torque of 40-45 ft/lb and then see if the warp is corrected.
Thank you, great advice. It was 1 of the 3 Flexplate/converter bolts. I checked the other two and they weren't loose. However, the flexplate does seem to have extra flex in it at a particular spot - I'm guessing it's cracked somewhere. I finally got the car over to a lift, instead of on jack stands, so this should be much easier now. I'll report back soon
06-26-2013 08:24 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by killeratrod View Post
why would you only tighten one bolt on the flywheel ? Check all of them now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratt134 View Post
I know.. At the time I didn't think the bolt I "checked" was loose enough to make me want to check the other 2.
If you tightened one of three fasteners, that would have been the torque converter to the flexplate. There are two types of converter to flexplate bolts- one uses a bolt and nut, the other uses a bolt into threaded holes in the converter- which may be the one you have. If that's the case, I would loosen all three and retighten them in stages to a final torque of 40-45 ft/lb and then see if the warp is corrected.
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