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How to Remove these Cab Mounts?

22K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  777funk 
#1 ·
Check these pictures out. I'm sure I could knock these out with an air chisel but I'm not sure that's the best way, I'd sure hate to destroy the floor or inner rocker panels.

What's the best bet to get these out? Also, the bolts, how would I remove these? I'd guess they're rusted on good and the broken off mount parts would spin if I hit them with an impact. Maybe I could hold them from rotating with a vice grips? Check out the pics:





 

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#2 ·
There are several ways. Some of spot welds might be able to be drilled out from the top. Some of them can be ground out with a cut-off disk on a die grinder. It is time consuming but you can get them off without destroying the cab. If you do drill them out from the top, plug weld them when you put the new mount in. It makes a very neat installation. :)

John
 
#4 ·
As John said "time consuming" this is of up most importance, to accept that it takes some time. And that is the key, clean up the area good exposing every weld so you can remove it. You remove the weld just like "unbolting" it. Don't loose sight of that, simply remove each weld, one at a time. Some you use a die grinder with a cut off disc, others you drill out, some from the top, some from the bottom, sometimes you have no choice, it's where you have access.

Here is a "Basics of Basics" on the subject of removing spot welded on parts. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basics-basics-spot-welds-removing-welded-panels-222549.html

Just take your time, you wouldn't remove a bolted on fender with an air chisel or a torch right? Why remove a spot welded on part with one? Simply "un-bolt" it, it's that simple.

Brian
 
#6 ·
i'd use the 4'' grinder for all of it.
thin cutoff disk to cut all the bolts and cut off most of the metal.
then switch to grinder disks or flapper wheels to get back to base metal.
i use grinding disks because they're dirt cheap and last forever
 
#7 ·
I'm not real big at sitting under something and throwing a shower of sparks all over everything so I would use a sawzall starting with the bolt then jacking up the cab a littleand cut out all of the mount leaving just the lips then drill out the spot welds...be sure to pull back the carpet if there is any BEFORE you weld the new ones in.and be sure that whole cab is on stands before you get started
 
#9 ·
And let me say, "removing the cab" sounds like a HUGE ordeal, bordering on impossible to a lot of guys new to this stuff. But pulling that cab off is no big deal, it is no different than removing a fender,it just takes a little longer. Just nuts and bolts is all it is. :D

Brian
 
#10 ·
That's actually the reason I chose to work on a truck (all the parts come off).

As far as removing the cab, I have no crane or other power lifting equipment nor do I have any help currently. So maybe that would make it close to impossible? Not that I believe much is impossible with a plan.
 
#11 ·
Watch a good rigger and you will see how it's done! My boss could take a semi cab off by himself without a hint of a problem, he is amazing at this stuff.

But on your cab, put a piece of wood across the rocker, lift that side of the cab with a floor jack. Once you get it up a little put a jack stand at the front and rear to hold it up an inch or so. Go to the other side do the same thing, then back to the first side and raise it a bit further with the jack stands, then go back to the other side. Once you have it a couple of inches off the frame you could run a 2x6 board over the frame across to each side. Remove the wheels on the chassis and put it on casters, roll it out from underneath the cab, there you go. :thumbup:

The other day I moved my cab from on a couple of boards laying on dirt over 10 feet to on the concrete pad, then put it up on the cart I made, and then raised the cart up, and wheeled it out to the garage. Did it all by myself!

Brian
 
#12 ·
Interesting Brian, I figured with the bed I'd hoist it up a bit with a comealong and drive out from under it (saw that somewhere). I don't know if I have anything high enough to hoist the cab up with. Sounds like your methodo should work pretty good.
 
#13 ·
Between a friend of mine who is in elevator repair and construction and my boss who was a rigger in the army, it is amazing what you can do. My boss came in one day with three Semi truck sleepers on the tow truck. I am not kidding you, it wasn't a hour or so later he is driving out with the empty truck. I walk out back and all three of those sleepers are perfectly placed at the back of the lot on 4x4s, not a scratch, blew me away.

Brian
 
#16 ·
I dont know if you really want to remove the cab,I dont think I would Sure thats what you'd do if you were restoring it but if this is your daily driver and you need it, do one side at a time you can jack the cab up quite a bit to get clearance you need for working and you dont have to worry about it squashing your legs its impossible,the cab can only go down about an inch, when the floor hits the frame thats as far as it'll go... Being your a newbie I think you'd have more chance of getting hurt by removing the cab....Dont forget things likethe steering colume and wiring harness will need to be disconnected also...why make a simple litte cab mount job into a big drawn out deal...Of coarse its totally up to you but if it were me I'd just jack up one side ,replace he mounts ,jack up the other side and replace them ,bolt the whole thing down and drive away. still it might take about a week to get R done
 
#17 ·
This is true Mike, if ONLY the cab mounts are being changed you are very right. If it's going to be more drawn out, then removing the cab would make things easier. But yeah, that may be a serious overkill.

Brian
 
#20 ·
2nd Gen Cummins truck (95). You've seen this before?

To my eye, it looks like the welds are right at the seams in patches. Maybe I'll be able to see better once I get the undercoating stripped.

Speaking of undercoating... this truck looks as if it was undercoated and the donor I have (96 1500 V6 Ram that I picked up for $500 for the bed and body parts) is only in paint (no undercoating) and the cab mounts are almost perfect. Could be a coincidence.
 
#22 ·
Theres only a few spot welds to drill out,why not do it right its easier...first off the new piece wont fit right and you'll be struggling the whole way and it'll never be right...if you can drill a hole with an electric drill you can drill out a spot weld...and do it right...dont worry we wont let you screw it up...you can do it...
 
#25 ·
yeah you gotta pull the carpet up anyway.If theres a double layer of steel there and you need to drill them from the bottom ,you can make it real easy by cutting out the outrigger from the frame ,replace the mount then weld the out rigger back on its a lot fasterand easier than working around that thing...just dont loose it. or them
 
#27 ·
Thanks for the offer DBM! You guys are helpful! I needed a new bed for this truck so I bought a spare truck with a bad engine and it has good mounts. So I guess I will need to pull those off and weld them in. I've never done this so I am trying to find the best/easiest way. Sounds like taking those mounts would be the best bet. I also didn't want to tear that spare cab up since it's a good cab and someone else could have a need for it possibly. But the mounts are there so I might as well take em.
 
#34 ·
DBM and Matt, yep that's why I'm saving it.

In my opinion the technology in this truck won't be back ever again so I'd like to keep it. You don't see this kind of power and simplicity before or after the 12V Cummins and NV4500. In my opinion this is the best powertrain ever created in the history of internal comb engines.

But at the same time yes it is frustrating trying to win against rust. At least in a truck all the pieces can be removed if the need to.
 
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