|07-28-2013 08:38 AM|
DBM and Matt, yep that's why I'm saving it.
In my opinion the technology in this truck won't be back ever again so I'd like to keep it. You don't see this kind of power and simplicity before or after the 12V Cummins and NV4500. In my opinion this is the best powertrain ever created in the history of internal comb engines.
But at the same time yes it is frustrating trying to win against rust. At least in a truck all the pieces can be removed if the need to.
|07-28-2013 05:22 AM|
|deadbodyman||Even if it isnt worth much everything you'll learn will be valueable..|
|07-28-2013 12:40 AM|
|07-27-2013 10:57 PM|
my 97 dodge 1500 4x4 went to cash for clunkers because of body rust.
rocker was gone, so was 4 inches of the door inside and out.
hard to heat to say the least
truck ran fine and had just put a new trans in it.
don't waste your time.
poor kids what will they be rebuilding in 10 years
|07-27-2013 10:23 PM|
|777funk||I would if I could but the donor truck is a single cab and the keeper truck is an extended cab. But the mounts that are bad are the ones that are on the single cab.|
|07-27-2013 08:53 PM|
|07-27-2013 08:17 PM|
|poncho62||Why dont you just use that good cab? Probably easier than trying to change the mounts|
|07-27-2013 06:25 PM|
|777funk||Thanks for the offer DBM! You guys are helpful! I needed a new bed for this truck so I bought a spare truck with a bad engine and it has good mounts. So I guess I will need to pull those off and weld them in. I've never done this so I am trying to find the best/easiest way. Sounds like taking those mounts would be the best bet. I also didn't want to tear that spare cab up since it's a good cab and someone else could have a need for it possibly. But the mounts are there so I might as well take em.|
|07-27-2013 05:59 PM|
|07-27-2013 05:54 PM|
|deadbodyman||yeah you gotta pull the carpet up anyway.If theres a double layer of steel there and you need to drill them from the bottom ,you can make it real easy by cutting out the outrigger from the frame ,replace the mount then weld the out rigger back on its a lot fasterand easier than working around that thing...just dont loose it. or them|
|07-27-2013 05:49 PM|
|777funk||Thanks guys, I was thinking about fabbing them from sheet metal and I figured the parts that attach to the body (curves) would be difficult. Thats why I considered just welding to those existing parts. But it sounds like that's not a good idea?|
|07-27-2013 05:35 PM|
|123pugsy||Yep. Just pull the seat and carpet and drill from the top.|
|07-27-2013 05:25 PM|
|deadbodyman||Theres only a few spot welds to drill out,why not do it right its easier...first off the new piece wont fit right and you'll be struggling the whole way and it'll never be right...if you can drill a hole with an electric drill you can drill out a spot weld...and do it right...dont worry we wont let you screw it up...you can do it...|
|07-27-2013 01:53 PM|
|777funk||Would it be unwise to cut off the rust on the existing cab mounts (i.e. most of the mounts until you get right up to about an inch from the floor board) and then just weld in new metal to the old mount surfaces to fab up a new mount?|
|07-18-2013 07:33 AM|
To my eye, it looks like the welds are right at the seams in patches. Maybe I'll be able to see better once I get the undercoating stripped.
Speaking of undercoating... this truck looks as if it was undercoated and the donor I have (96 1500 V6 Ram that I picked up for $500 for the bed and body parts) is only in paint (no undercoating) and the cab mounts are almost perfect. Could be a coincidence.
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