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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 08:34 PM
samsonized thanks for the info I will keep for reference
Yesterday 08:31 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by samsonized View Post
john did you make paper patterns first and if so do you have them maybe I could use them to make mine mike
I am sorry Mike I did not. Started with the flat metal you see in the picture and drew a center line. Then I laid it out from the center line to each bead.

Example: First bead 4 inches from center line, second 11 inches third 21 inches.

Then I laid out the 2 bends front to back.

The first bead is 4 inches from center, second 11 inches from center, third 21 inches from center.



Here is the access hole to the convertible pump with the ruler positioned from the center line.



The front bend is 1 3/4 inches and the second bend is 4 3/4 from the front of the panel.



Yesterday 08:10 PM
samsonized
not cheeeeep

john with the quality of the work that you do I think the tools that you have are just fine
Yesterday 08:07 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by samsonized View Post
john did you cut it in half so I could use half in my 51 and u could use half in yours
I hate to sound selfish but I cut it in half because i am too ch ch che chea frugal to buy good tools.

John
Yesterday 08:06 PM
samsonized
just joking on the previous post

john did you make paper patterns first and if so do you have them maybe I could use them to make mine mike
Yesterday 07:58 PM
samsonized
looks just like a 51

john did you cut it in half so I could use half in my 51 and u could use half in yours
Yesterday 06:52 PM
John long How frustrating!

I called a buddy and got permission to use his 4ft brake to make this convertible top well and laid out the pattern on the blank.

Huh Oh, The beads are 20 inches from the end and my bead roller only has an 18 inch throat. I probably should have just laid out a pattern that would work with my bead roller but instead I cut it in half.

I have had to make everything else in pieces, why not this?

John




07-24-2014 09:28 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
How about a couple of "before pictures" to make the in progress pictures easier to relate to.







John
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Finished welding in the flange. Looks like the factory spot welded in there 60 years ago.




When you back up and look at the whole floor, it is beginning to look like a car.




John
That is a stunning transformation right there. It DOES look like a car again...
07-24-2014 09:08 PM
samsonized
inspiration

your progress is like an inspiration thanks and keep those pix coming
07-24-2014 08:32 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by samsonized View Post
john it looks better with every pix. I am getting a little jealous my car looks like the before pix
Don't let that bother you Mike. So did mine 14 months ago. That is how long I have owned it. You will be surprized how quickly it will come together as long as you do your 5 minutes every day.

I predicted 2 years to do the metal work when I started. The key is you have to enjoy the build and do not put it on the back burner for too long. Once you loose momentum it is tuff to get started again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Very nice John.
Thanks Pugsy. We meed some updates on how things are going with you too.

John
07-24-2014 04:50 AM
123pugsy Very nice John.
07-23-2014 10:48 PM
samsonized john it looks better with every pix. I am getting a little jealous my car looks like the before pix
07-23-2014 08:56 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
John go online ,,Sharkskin Metal treatment,, their product will keep rust from starting for over a year on sand blasted metal should last lonber on unblasted ,( no silica from sand ),,might be something you are interested in.
Thanks David. I think I will fabricate the top well, seat back support and the lower brace that runs across the car at the B pillar. At this point I intend to stop, clean it good and put the bare metal in epoxy before I weld them in. If I don't, there going to be places I can not get to to prime.

John
07-23-2014 08:36 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Finished welding in the flange. Looks like the factory spot welded in there 60 years ago.



This is the important side. It shows when the trunk is opened.



When you back up and look at the whole floor, it is beginning to look like a car.



Next step is to make the top well and temporarily install the seat back support. I am going to have to break open this gallon of SPI epoxy and prime the inside before I weld it up permanently. Drill screws will be just the ticket to mock this up.

John
John go online ,,Sharkskin Metal treatment,, their product will keep rust from starting for over a year on sand blasted metal should last lonber on unblasted ,( no silica from sand ),,might be something you are interested in.
07-23-2014 06:35 PM
John long Finished welding in the flange. Looks like the factory spot welded in there 60 years ago.



This is the important side. It shows when the trunk is opened.



When you back up and look at the whole floor, it is beginning to look like a car.



Next step is to make the top well and temporarily install the seat back support. I am going to have to break open this gallon of SPI epoxy and prime the inside before I weld it up permanently. Drill screws will be just the ticket to mock this up.

John
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