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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 02:34 AM
cozwurth I can't tell from the angle of the pics, but is there enough room to take the clutch linkage apart if needed?

Dave
Yesterday 09:09 PM
John long I started making my driver's side body mount. To begin I made a lower plate out of 1/8 stock that I won't have to worry about flexing. Next, I put one of my cushions on the frame mount and added 1/4" of shims to give me a little extra adjustability when it came time to shim the body.



Then I bolted the upper plate with shims to the body mount so I could mock up the body mount to it.



I love making patterns. The neat thing about making patterns is, you can tape fifteen pieces of posterboard together and no matter how ugly it is, when you take it off and lay it out flat, you have a great pattern.

Make sure you make lots of notes on it so you won't forget where it bends, needs extra material, etc, etc. I forgot to take a picture of the pattern before I took it off but I had written all over it.






Once I had a good "working" pattern I decided to go ahead and transfer it to a fresh piece of pattern material and make a final pattern before I transferred it to metal. This step really isn't necessary but it makes it more difficult to cut your metal out only to discover you forgot a flange or another modification that was only indicated by a notation somewhere.



Here is the final pattern. If you look closely, you will see where I indicated some beads in the front of it......We'll see......





This is as far as I got today. Time to cut some metal. Tomorrow is another day.
06-22-2017 06:59 PM
John long The accelerator pedal (Dodge Dakota) came yesterday. I kind of got sidetracked off the body mounts looking at whether or not it was going to work.

The next thing I know, I have reversed the bracket, cut the upper leg off and straightened the angle about 15 degrees.

We went from this:



To this:



I am pretty happy with the result. Both where the cable comes out as well as the final position of the pedal. All that is left is to drill two holes and mount it.




06-19-2017 05:12 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I may have welded he twist in mine too.
Good luck
If the eye can't see it, it's not twisted.
06-19-2017 05:00 AM
deadbodyman I may have welded he twist in mine too.
Good luck
06-18-2017 07:15 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I'm curious, have you measured or squared and leveled the frame rails to be sure it dosnt have a twist or anything that'll throw off a nice snug fit at all mounting points? The reason I ask is when I did my Plymouth I didn't look for a twist and sure enough it had one. It threw my gaps off when I bolted it down. Just something to be aware of that caused me a bit of grief.
It does have a little twist. Not a lot but a little. Most of it appears to be slight movement when the subframe was welded in. I am pretty comfortable that it is correctable with shimming. I can't believe this old girl came from the factory perfectly level.

I have it sitting on the pads now and shimmed with large fender washers. At this point I have mounts with a minimum of pad only to one mount with 3 washers. As Pugsy said, I am trying to do my best to make sure each mount carries the same weight before anything is torqued. Bear in mind also, with the floor pans and mounts being hand made nothing is going to be exact on the body either.

So far I am pleased with the door gaps. The deck lid is not back on yet.

Wish me luck!
John
06-18-2017 06:30 AM
deadbodyman I'm curious, have you measured or squared and leveled the frame rails to be sure it dosnt have a twist or anything that'll throw off a nice snug fit at all mounting points? The reason I ask is when I did my Plymouth I didn't look for a twist and sure enough it had one. It threw my gaps off when I bolted it down. Just something to be aware of that caused me a bit of grief.
06-17-2017 05:19 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I'll jump in because it's fun to hear how different guys would approach things. I think I would install a body bracket as close to the original position as possible, then measure height in relation to the rest of the body then duplicate the height difference with the frame bracket. Takes uneven squish out of the equation.
I think we are all pretty much describing the same route to reach the same destination. Just different descriptions of the journey.

John
06-17-2017 05:11 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
This is where things get a little tricky. do you have the rubber body mounts yet? Whats your plan for knowing where to weld the frame mounts in the right spot so the weight distribution is the same on all the mounts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Interesting.
Wouldn't one do a "dry" fit with a hard spacer the same everywhere and assume the same squish on each?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
With no body mount existing, the frame mount height is irrelevant. Make it level with the frame, build the body mount to it with a bushing..
These front cowl mounts are unique. They carry weight under normal conditions but when you open the door the cowl tries to flex under the weight of the door and these mounts actually hold the cowl down in front.

There is nothing there now, either on the body or the frame. My plan is to build the frame mounts flush with the top of the frame as Mitch said. I am then going to build the body mounts leaving room for a body cushion plus the thickness of a couple of shims. It would be better to have to add the shims than try to figure out how to correct for too little clearance.

I am going to triangulate the mount from the top of the toe board and bottom of the firewall to the frame mount and then also from the frame mount back to the bottom of the toe board at the front of the floor pans.

Basically that is what the factory did but I do hope to make it a little cleaner looking.

I actually made my body mount cushions out of heavy conveyor belt material.

John



06-17-2017 12:37 PM
idrivejunk I'll jump in because it's fun to hear how different guys would approach things. I think I would install a body bracket as close to the original position as possible, then measure height in relation to the rest of the body then duplicate the height difference with the frame bracket. Takes uneven squish out of the equation.
06-17-2017 12:20 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
This is where things get a little tricky. do you have the rubber body mounts yet? Whats your plan for knowing where to weld the frame mounts in the right spot so the weight distribution is the same on all the mounts
With no body mount existing, the frame mount height is irrelevant. Make it level with the frame, build the body mount to it with a bushing..
06-17-2017 08:46 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
This is where things get a little tricky. do you have the rubber body mounts yet? Whats your plan for knowing where to weld the frame mounts in the right spot so the weight distribution is the same on all the mounts
Interesting.
Wouldn't one do a "dry" fit with a hard spacer the same everywhere and assume the same squish on each?
06-17-2017 08:06 AM
deadbodyman This is where things get a little tricky. do you have the rubber body mounts yet? Whats your plan for knowing where to weld the frame mounts in the right spot so the weight distribution is the same on all the mounts
06-16-2017 05:51 PM
John long While I am waiting for my accelerator pedal and cable I am moving on to the front body mounts that went away with the subframe installation.

I made templates for the gussets for the frame mounts today. I may not get them welded on until next week but at least I got a little done.

They will go on square but my magnet would not hold them at the actual angle.

John



06-15-2017 08:03 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Lokar Midnight series. All black with black cable to carb too....no bling.
I know, waaaay outside your frugal zone...
LOL, Here is frugal for you!

Offer accepted at $21.80 with shipping!

I keep telling you guys life is very good.

John



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