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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-14-2013 05:26 PM
69 widetrack That's great advice Kelly, especially since he isn't in as big a hurry today as he may have been a few weeks ago. So, this might be a plan for you...go test driving welders...and don't be afraid to ask when the demo welders are coming up for sale....who knows, you might come home with a full size Cadillac and paid for an Economy Chevy.

Ray
08-14-2013 05:22 PM
carolinacustoms
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Here's a tip that might help...a lot of these welding supply places have demo welders...see if you can't take one for a spin and see what it does and how it works for you...try a few different ones, you don't by a car without test driving it...right?

Ray
I don't know if it is a common thing or not, but one of the welding suppliers in the area here will sell the demo units with full warranty at deep discounts. A friend of mine bought a 180 amp Lincoln a few weeks ago for $550. Looks brand new, with warranty, just had been demo'd at the supplier's. I think he said it had about 20 hours or so on it. I'd buy a welder with 20 hours for half price.....

Kelly
08-14-2013 05:15 PM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc-Angel View Post
I agree with 69 Widetrack. Those are some nice welds. I am going to try to get the best welder I can afford, I am seriously considering the Hobart MVP 210 welder, It kinda has the best of both worlds, 110 and 220 all in one unit. The only thing I do not like about the Hobart, Is the fact that the power settings are pre-set.
Here's a tip that might help...a lot of these welding supply places have demo welders...see if you can't take one for a spin and see what it does and how it works for you...try a few different ones, you don't by a car without test driving it...right?

Ray
08-14-2013 05:13 PM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by gow589 View Post
Maybe I will look you up if I pass through there.
Sounds great...bring your TIG...and trailer the car...love to get that trade started...LOL

Excellent welding again.

Ray
08-14-2013 04:47 PM
Arc-Angel I agree with 69 Widetrack. Those are some nice welds. I am going to try to get the best welder I can afford, I am seriously considering the Hobart MVP 210 welder, It kinda has the best of both worlds, 110 and 220 all in one unit. The only thing I do not like about the Hobart, Is the fact that the power settings are pre-set.
08-14-2013 01:55 PM
gow589 Maybe I will look you up if I pass through there.
08-14-2013 01:48 PM
69 widetrack Your right, that is a tough question, especially if you don't know the experience or exact skill level of the person asking the question of which welder to buy is. I have to agree with you, buying the top end of a welder you can afford would be good advice, you can't go wrong with quality.

Would love it if you could teach me to weld like that...how about a trade, I'll teach you how to paint, you teach me how to weld like that...LOL. Only problem is, your in Indiana...I'm stuck in Canada.

Ray
08-14-2013 01:44 PM
gow589 BTW, there is a mystique about TIG. I do a lot of TIG welding too. If you buy one welder, buy a MIG. If you plan on buying a MIG and a TIG buy your MIG first.

When it comes to aluminum, MIG welding is good for aluminum trailers and things like that. 90% of the aluminum we do in the hot rod world would be TIG'd; tanks, intake manifold, etc:






















08-14-2013 01:35 PM
gow589
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Very Nice welds...I would love to be able to weld that good. So, for someone starting out and wanting to weld automotive and or truck frames, you would recommend a 110 welder?
I am having a hard time with that question. All these guys are giving great advice. Many professional welders have told me I can not do what I do with the box I have but in reality, the professional welders never had to. It is part of what makes the hobbyist different then the professional. If you lived near me and I could show you some things I would say no problem. I have a couple friends I have shown them the ropes with the same welder and they love it.

Some of it is people try to weld with .030 on these welders and it is simply a different ball game. I weld everything .024 because these welders love it and .030 just does not work as well. (not to say it is not usable or workable).

Since most would like to buy one welder, buy the top end of a welder you can afford, you will never be sorry.
08-14-2013 01:24 PM
69 widetrack Very Nice welds...I would love to be able to weld that good. So, for someone starting out and wanting to weld automotive and or truck frames, you would recommend a 110 welder?
08-14-2013 01:16 PM
gow589 I am going to go against the grain here. 10+ years ago I bought a Hobart 135. I have a 220v Miller but still use the Hobart 110v for almost everything. Why? Because I have it dialed in and I know it.

Heavy metal has never been a problem. But to do so, does not always go with conventional thought. I have welded a 100+ things which were 1/4-1/2" and structural. These are things which have been abused and I have had no failures. To do so I weld with the SMALLEST wire .024. Never .030 or .035 and NEVER flux core. Always shielded gas and always clean metal.

This welder is in it's groove with the smaller wire and it simply will not heat saturate with the thicker wire. It does take longer and it does put a lot of heat in while doing so. Many of the things I have done are 2 pass items but, like I said I have abused these things and never had a single issue.

Here are a couple examples. Yes I know I cut the edges of the bucket backwards but I re-cut it correctly latter. The bucket was a 1/2" parts with a 1/4" wall:
























I have even welded 1/2" blades on an industrial bush hog which were used again for several seasons clearing property, brush, small trees, etc.

I know I am going to get lambasted for this but I have had zero problems welding thick metal with a 110v welder and I can post photos of stuff all day long.

As far as duty cycle, keep in mind there is a thermal cut off. I have welded to the point of the welder shutting off from the thermal cutoff many many times....Keep in mind the thermal cut off is WAY WAY past the duty cycle limit. This is non stop welding for a long period of time.

I have done a 1000+ projects with this 110v welder in the past 10+ years, I have abused it. All I have done to it is change the inner liner occasionally. If it dies today I have zero complaints.

Gary
08-05-2013 05:16 PM
Arc-Angel I thought about finding an old mower with atleast a 15hp motor and swapping out the pulleys and a couple other things to make it go faster... I could just see it now, Doing 20mph down the street on a riding mower, The neighbors wouldn't know what to think, lol.
08-05-2013 05:05 PM
SuthnCustoms
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc-Angel View Post
Yeah, My first two projects were going to be a cart for the welder, And a welding table aswell. And yeah, Let me know how much shipping would be, If it is not too much I might be able to do it this month. It would be shipped to zip code: 23805 in VA.
I'll get them boxed and stop by the post office tomorrow on my to statesboro..i think i have to get a new pulley for the ridin mower anyhow now..lol
08-05-2013 02:00 PM
Arc-Angel Yeah, My first two projects were going to be a cart for the welder, And a welding table aswell. And yeah, Let me know how much shipping would be, If it is not too much I might be able to do it this month. It would be shipped to zip code: 23805 in VA.
08-05-2013 01:40 PM
SuthnCustoms
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc-Angel View Post
When I bought my welder I bought some gloves, A chipping hammer, And a cheap Kobalt helmet. As far as the jacket, I could not afford one this month, But I wear a 3x shirt size. I will probably take the helmet back aswell as the welder as it is not an auto darkening one. The gloves I bought are Kobalt ones aswell, And I like them, They are thick but too thick, And they have a cinch around the wrist part, Most of the ones I have seen online do not have a cinch. I may take you up on the offer for the stuff you mentioned though, But it may not be until next month though when I have more money. Would the 210 MVP be able to weld car frames strong enough? I don't want to make a frame and then the welds break when I am going 50mph down the road..... I don't think it would end very pretty for me if that happened.
That machine will do all you need plus more..perfect for what you are wanting.

I use a Lincoln 180 here at the house and it has welded many a jeep frames.suspension mods.motor mounts..etc etc and yours will 210 amp

I forgot to mention a few things...

1..you dont need any of those fancy shmancy welding gloves they try to sell you..most of those have nylon or poly in them..they melt......
You don't need the big heavy insulated gloves either..just a good pair of leather work gloves are more than fine for .035 or less fluxcore or MIG welding..

2.. another thing you will have to invest in is a good extention cord for the machine,they have very short cords...12 gauge for the 110 side,10 gauge preferably for the 220 side
I use a 10 gauge 90' cord that was being thrown out on a job because someone smashed an end on it and i put my own ends on it
At first i used my machine with the cord ran to my dryer outlet untill i put a service panel in my little shop..i am in the process of clearing land and building(hopefully) a new 40x60 steel frame shop.

3..your first project should be building a cart for the machine to wheel it around where needed,find some scrap angle or tubing,even scrap conduit will work but try to stay clear of the galvanized smoke while welding it..
I use an old weight lifting machine frame i was throwing out from being wore out and built this one for now as high as the table i work off of and put old lawn mower wheels and caster wheels from harbor freight on it wheel around on the ground..

Let me know about the gloves.glasses,,jacket..etc..i box them up and get a shipping prices for you..
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