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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-30-2013 11:34 AM
69 widetrack It actually looks quite good...I'm proud of you my friend. As time goes on, the color will come down a bit and be a closer match...I see the color difference between the header and and the fender...the header is quite faded and just a slight difference from the door to the quarter.

It's going to be an awesome driver, enjoy until it's time to do a complete, you've got a bit of experience now and if you have questions in the future, feel free to ask.

Ray
08-30-2013 11:23 AM
cletusvandamme

I put alot of clear on, so the color shade is a little different, but barely recognizable.

Thanks, the over spray was coming off with just my fingers.









08-30-2013 09:51 AM
69 widetrack No, start with a coarser grit like 800 wet on a block, then move up to 1,000, then 1,500, 2,000 and finish with 2,500 then polish...as far as the over spray, try using a polishing compound...it should come off easily.

Give the car a few days...just to be on the safe side...I'm not familiar with the clear you used...it should be Okay to wash now but I'd hate to see water spots.

Hope this helps

Ray
08-30-2013 09:44 AM
Lizer A claybar will take the overspray right off, no sanding needed.
08-30-2013 09:38 AM
cletusvandamme thanks.

I have about 4 drips/runs in the paint. Should I wet sand with 1500 to remove?

Also, I have some clear coat overspray on the quarter panel. I can scratch it off with my fingernail, but can I use 1500 sand paper to remove the over spray?

Finally, how long until I can wash the car? Its been 24 hours since clear coat.
08-29-2013 03:22 PM
69 widetrack That's great, the most important thing is that you gave it a scuff to open it up again so the solvents can penetrate the existing base coat...Please, pictures would be great.

Just trying to look out after you bud.

Ray
08-29-2013 03:13 PM
cletusvandamme I just know its dupont base. It wasnt really a mist, just a quick spray after I scuffed it lightly with a scotch pad.

The owner of the garage went on vacation and I went to the cape for a week, so I couldnt finish it last week.

So far, it looks real good for my first paint job. Ill have to see what it looks like when its dry tomorrow.
08-29-2013 01:26 PM
69 widetrack You waited a week before re-basing...refresh me...what kind of base was that again? Some base coats have 24 hour window of recoatability, some need to be lightly scuffed before they can be top coated, even with more base...and a light mist coat of base is a bit of a problem as well. In order for base coat to stick to itself after it has flashed and especially after sitting a week or more, it needs to go on medium wet so that the solvents can penetrate the existing base substrate...I don't want to be the bearer of bad news but you could have an adhesion issue...both the base you just applied sticking to the base and the clear sticking to the base.

I'm not saying you will, it could happen...in the future, be sure that you can top coat base coat after a week (some companies tech sheets say to remove the old base coat) and never a mist coat unless the base is still wet or flashing.

Ray
08-29-2013 11:56 AM
cletusvandamme update.

I put the clear coat on today. I first sprayed a mist of base coat on again since its been a week since I put on base coat.

Used SELECTCLEAR™ 496-00™ - DuPont clear.

Came out real nice. I had some runs, and the scratches are visible, but you have to look real close to see them.

Ill have to take some pics tomorrow when it drys.

Thanks for the advice.
08-21-2013 09:11 PM
monster76 i bought a car once with news paper shoved in the rust holes with body filler on top
08-21-2013 08:59 PM
69 widetrack Kelly, I have one where a fellow used sweat socks, a hockey stick, and a Pepsi sign holding a rear quarter on a car...and that's not the worst one...LOL.

I'll start it in the early AM...I just hope it's fun and all meant in good spirit.

Ray
08-21-2013 08:30 PM
carolinacustoms Ray, you should start that thread. I have pictures of duct tape, spray foam, and roofin tin holding a 55 Chevy together. I could post for days lol.

Kelly
08-21-2013 08:22 PM
Preacherman agreed! i say start the thread...laughter is better than medicine!
08-21-2013 02:41 PM
69 widetrack It's good to know that we are on the same page, sometimes circumstances (customers) dictate that things need to be done a certain way that may not necessarily be the "By the book way" which would ensure the longevity of the job. I'm sure if you had your way, every job would have that solid substrate to apply a new finish over top. In cases such as the one we are dealing with it's so important to understand exactly what the OP is expecting in order to offer the information that best serves his needs.

LOL...I've actually been thinking of starting a thread entitled "what not to do when painting or doing body work on a car". I'm sure that the stories that would come out would be enlightening as well as humorous...I know from some of the things I've seen happen in body shops, there might be some shock value as well...LOL

Ray
08-21-2013 01:17 PM
Preacherman Yep Ray..u hit the nail on the head! I would like to be full time resto only but thats not possible at this point and the car lot boys want it back quick and cheap..lol! And yes Sir, if it needed to be on the money i would have stripped it down to metal and came up from there. With the og posters comment about the car needing to be redone all over, i just thought clearing it for a quick fix that will last a few years and fix the issue was the way to go. But i agree with you 100%, to do a job right and expect it to last you need to go to bare metal. I tell people all the time that the top is no better than whats under it.
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