|10-25-2003 12:12 PM|
Likewise, I definitely offer the "props" for the Nam vets. It was a heck of a mess to be stuck in, both physically and politically. A no-win situation. Talk about being "whipped". Eighteen months in the rice fields and napalm only to come home to be greeted by mass-harassment from potheads and junkies. And what a lie that so-called "social revolution" was (yeah...the Beatles "Revolution" being played for Nike sneakers...some revolution!), but I better not get into that.
Woodz: I was thinking the same on the cam swap. I am also hypothesizing that is why I have to keep the timing real tight. The low idle problem required many many MANY hours of troubleshooting, taking off the intake and carb, and giving myself one wailing backache, on an entire Sunday afternoon. Gawd all the test driving and stalling...I was really a basket case. But I finally got it to idle real nice.
Now when I low idle in drive, it "feels" like it gets so low it is going to stall, but when it is fully warmed up, it drops into this really sweet sounding low-pitch rumble. Not like your smooth sounding 305/350 factory idle, but a "thump-thump-thump-thump" heartbeat sounding kind of idle, and it does not stall. I also have a single "tick" sound mixed in that is coming from the exhaust manifold because its missing a bolt, but I really love the way it sounds "mean" at idle, and haven't put another bolt in. I just have to adjust the carb and choke a little better to get the "intermediate" warm-up period smooth (like the first 10-15 minutes after cold start).
So, short of pulling the top of the engine apart with it running so nice, how could I determine if I have a modified cam?
Also, I could have swore I read that CS was involved with the 428 design, along with the 351-C. It was just reading material for sure, and it could have been wrong. Or maybe its a "brain fart" or soimething. But I like to be sure about what I read and post, and am pretty heavy into learning about the Pony cars. Back then, I was probably just a fetus so my first-hand experience is a bit limited.
|10-24-2003 11:13 PM|
|10-24-2003 08:01 PM|
|hotwheels55||A big thanks to those members who served in Vietnam! I hope it isn't to late to say that.|
|10-24-2003 07:58 PM|
|woodz428||Kahlah, I will take a guess at what misadventures may have taken place...I'm guessing a cam swap. Timing cover intake and valve covers,seems like the natural reason to have those off.|
|10-24-2003 06:48 PM|
|Pony||Cam Rhan Bay 1965 864th Eng.|
|10-24-2003 06:05 AM|
VietNam huh? I just heard on the TV that VietNam is the fastest growing exporter to the U.S. Not the biggest, that would be China.
Cam Rahn Bay RVN 1971
|10-23-2003 10:05 PM|
|Pony||I have a 351-M in my 1953 Ford. I can't speak for the C's but the M's have a history of bolts backing off. Mine so far 1: an Intake rocker bolt backing out far enough for the push rod to pop out of the rocker. It actually sucked oil from the valley area past stock steel 1 piece intake gasket into the cylinder, ran on 7 and smoked like crazy. 2: The bolt that holds the fuel pump cam and cam timing gear backed out, There's about 1/2" clearance between the pump cam and front cover plate, so the bolt and cam couldn't fall off. But they made enough of a racket that I nearly went nuts trouble shooting the noise. It needed a new timing chain set anyway..|
|10-23-2003 09:33 AM|
Update on Hi-Flow water pump
I wanted to let everyone know about my Milodon (Made in Viet Nam) after-market water pump installation and the results.
Its definitely a welcome add-on that improves water circulation and decreases the time it takes to warm up the engine. I also added a 180 degree thermostat. It heats up to 180-185 degrees, on the money, and it parks there even in idle and bumper to bumper. Its a great improvement over the OEM pump that was on the truck. Its a new one, and I paid $80 (free shipping) at Summit for this one, and I am completely satisfied.
BTW, I am using a cheapie SunPro gauge set, and I must also add that this was a very good minor investment (some $39 at Advance). These gauges are accurate as all heck. I was totally surprised to see this kind of accuracy out of cheapie parts.
I have some pics I will post of the 351-C with the front end pulled off. You can clearly see the differences between the Cleveland engines and the other Ford engines with the front end off. Its real handy that you can replace the front seal without dropping the pan.
I found a few surprises, when I did this. It seems there were two seperate engine "mod" sessions. The most recent was the monkey swap that I am perenially trying to correct as I go along.
But I also discovered a more sophisticated hand at work. I see what looks like replaced head gaskets. I also noticed that the timing cover has been removed and resealed with some "blue" poly sealant. This is the same sealant that was used for the valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold. Because this looks so recent and well done, I did not remove the timing cover to replace the gasket. I just replaced the water pump. If anyone might preadventure a guess as to what might have been done in this "more serious" engine rehab, please advise.
Another note to this matter...I have toyed with the timing off and on, but there is ONLY ONE setting that works, and that is the stock 8 degrees BTDC. Any other timing setting, advanced or retarded, even as little as 2 degrees, will either destroy the idle or cause serious "pinging". I don't have a problem with 8 BTDC, but I found it unusual that it is so tight, and there is no range whatsoever. This is not an engine you can "dial-in" by ear...you have to use the instruments. But aside from this, when it is on 8 BTDC, it runs and idles beautifully.
Among my other discoveries: an OEM fan pulley stamped 1972, an OEM alternator bracket stamped 1970, another OEM alternator bracket stamped 1971, and an OEM power steering bracket stamped 1973. This goes along with the OEM exhaust manifold stamp of 1972, and the totally wrong OEM 1973 intake manifold. This vehicle reminds me of the old Johnny Cash song, "One Piece at a Time."
So far, the truck has a combination of 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, and 1979 pieces and parts. WIth these recent discoveries, I am going to do a little inspecting underneath to see what other date stamps show up. I am sticking to all upgrades and settings to the 1970 model year which seems to be working fine.