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Power from a 77-79 small block Corvette?

2K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  1BAD80 
#1 ·
I'm getting closer to finding my project/weekend car. It looks like there is a fair amount of later C3 corvettes (1977-1979) in the paper so before I actually buy one, I wanna know if I can get affordable performance to back up the Corvette name. The 350ci engines those years came with a measily 190hp and 220hp. I'm obviously gonna need more power than that. The car is gonna cost about 5 grand. I'd like to know what, where and how much some performance parts will be. I'm not sure exactly where to start, but I have an idea of starting with, performance: camshafts, transmission (racing/street application), headers, rear end, pistons, heads, etc. Plus eventually I would like to put on a supercharger, but I'm not sure if I should put one on right away. Can I get performance more quicker from rebuilding the engine or putting on a supercharger. I'm somewhat confused because I know I can do both, I'm just not sure of what order. Please let me know any and all information on the subject if you have any knowledge on it. Thanks a million.
 
#3 ·
$$$$Corvette$$$$

Anything associated with a Vette is expensive, like a Harley Davidson Motorcycle. These after market people and the people who sell replacement parts look for big bucks for these cars. Suspension upgrade and engine build up will cost you dearly.



Todd



Rat Rods Rule! And can use cheap used parts!
 
#4 ·
hi guy , i picked a 75 vette as my first project car, unless you have lots of bucks, start with something else.I bought mine for 4,500. cdn. i have since spent a year and 10,000 dollars and have yet to hear the motor run.
here's a few examples. my build buddy is building a 1970 chevelle ss ls6 (a 50,000. dollar car all matching #s)his carpets cost 158. mine $ 500. rear view mirror,$135 with bracket, $110. without. door handles, $40. header panel across the top of windshiels(used) 85. and the list goes on. I even had to pay 50. for the washer fluid bottle cause the previous owner painted it black.
vettes are a very nice car, and they turn a lot more heads than a 5.0 rustang, but be ready to pay.
before you buy.... check the frame where it comes down over the rear wheel to the frame rail (flat part on top), also right under the door, reach around to the top, they tend to go on top.
also , hose the car down and sit inside, your looking for water coming in on the floor under the dash.water will show up here if the windshield track is rotten.take off the wheels and look for brake fluid traces on calipers, they're 250.00 each.although these models are amongst the least liked vettes, they are next on the going up list.
oh yeah,check for unusual door gaps, this can indicate an accident or worse, door posts inside are rotten.
evaluate the interior, mine wasnt that bad(except the seats)but i still spent 2,500 dollars to make it proper.
lastly, look up under any exterior body panels to look for repairs to the fiberglass.
a corvette (in my opinion)is one of the nicest cars on the road, and to own one is a pleasure. the only problem is, they are so commercialised it is almost price inhibitive , but if its what you want, its all worth it.
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p.p.s. they dont go down in value, only up. no matter what you spend(wisely)you will make it back , when you sell it.(just like harleys). most of all.....have fun. mike

remember, you will be driving the first real american sports car.
 
#5 ·
Your right about that....I sell older Chevy parts myself but help my buddy sell Corvette parts at the car shows. We make a killing on the vette parts. I see the prices and I say F-that!!!! We mostly deal in C4-C5 parts though. Glass top...$600...Hard top...$500....Leather seats without the tracks....$800..only owning non Corvette chevrolets....Priceless!!!

For instance~I can get a rolling frame for a 68-72 Chevelle for $400.00.......68-72 rolling Vette frame we just sold...$3000.00

Crazy..I tell ya!!!!
 
#7 ·
Iv'e just finished the running gear rebuild on my 1974 Stingray (pics in photo album). Everything said so far is absolutly right on. Unless your a very experienced mechanic with a decent home shop, not only will the parts eat you alive paying a shop to do any suspension work required ( and the all need that!) will give you a heart attack. Example: call Vett shop for heater blower motor = $$$$$ call Auto Parts for regular chevy blower motor (their the same) Half as much.
 
#8 ·
rnpit said:
You talking about a 20+ year old car so I would go with a rebuild first or a nice crate motor. Just be careful when you get the vette the rear suspensions are terrible on those years. The price of replacement parts will eat you alive.
What are you talking about? What is wrong with the rear suspension/
 
#9 ·
The rear end cover break's by the spring also the front of the differential, from torque twist because of the in-between year's designing a new rear end.
78 & 79 are the only years you can NOT get a traction-bar for.
Please go to vbandp.com to look at the vette chassis components.
They cariie F-body stuff also.
 
#10 ·
to add to what 1bad80 said, the independant rear suspension spring(only 1 )are wort 4 or 5 hundred bucks, it also has three drive shafts, one to the tranny , and 1 to each axel.that makes 6 universals.
this set up is probably the weak link of any corvette. most people who are going to race them will swap out the whole rear end for something more serviceable.
the bonus of these rear ends is that you will almost never experience wheel spin with them.and oh yeah, 4 wheel disc brakes.mike
 
#11 ·
mikeweyman said:
to add to what 1bad80 said, the independant rear suspension spring(only 1 )are wort 4 or 5 hundred bucks, it also has three drive shafts, one to the tranny , and 1 to each axel.that makes 6 universals.
this set up is probably the weak link of any corvette. most people who are going to race them will swap out the whole rear end for something more serviceable.
the bonus of these rear ends is that you will almost never experience wheel spin with them.and oh yeah, 4 wheel disc brakes.mike
I don't really see where you are going about the drive train. Becauase it is independent, is why it needs all the joints. I think it's a fine setup.
 
#12 ·
Sorry, I disagree with the drive shafts and agree with 78SilverShark.
Its the same with all parts, I keep them well greased and haven't lost one yet.
Yes, I do race my car, it weighs 2800 lbs. with a sbc 427 that puts me in the 10.80 bracket. If you build it correct parts dont break as much. As for the 4 wheel disc brakes 95% of all GM cars have them now.
 
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