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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-31-2007 10:23 AM
dest1971 Thanks, wow I didn't even notice the date, will check that next time. I will mostly be doing priming, and chassis work in the garage. Will rent a spary booth for the final coats though.

Thanks again. Dest1971
08-30-2007 07:43 PM
adtkart Dest.... First, I would have started a new thread rather than bring back one that is 4 years old. As far as furnace filters, don't use cheap ones, as they let more out than they stop. The more expensive ones will plug up faster, but that means that they are stopping more stuff. You might check with your paint supplier for booth filters. They are designed for that purpose. I would be a little concerned about painting a car in a townhome complex anyway.

Aaron
08-30-2007 05:41 PM
dest1971
Garage Painting

I am looking into doing the same thing with fans and furnace filters. Here is my big worrry, how well do the furnace filters work, I live in a town home complex, and am concerned that paint might escape, and get on some of the neighbors cars. I really don't want to upset them any more then my welding and grinding at 1:00 AM.

Great information, Thanks

Dest1971
11-07-2003 04:56 AM
thrown_hammer I have a feeling I should subscribe to this thread for future reference.
11-06-2003 03:00 PM
Centerline
Quote:
Originally posted by spl_dodge It is a very onformative site and I am sure that I will frequent it.
I spend at least 15-20 minutes there each day. I also ask questions occasionally and always get quality answers. Len is a straight shooter and some of the guys there are big time pro painters that have been at it for decades.

Centerline
11-06-2003 11:41 AM
spl_dodge Thanks for the ABS link centerline...I spent about 2 hours on that site yesterday. It is a very onformative site and I am sure that I will frequent it.
11-06-2003 05:43 AM
Centerline Cool! I'll have to try that.

Centerline
11-05-2003 09:21 PM
scholman Centerline,
I found an easier way for your door. Go to a building supplier that deals with "remodels". They have this stick-on zipper that just sticks to your plastic. All you do is un-zip the zipper and cut the plastic with a sharp knife. Then step into the paint room and Zip the thing shut. Works great! When you are finished just keep the zipper for the next job.

Regards
Scholman
11-05-2003 07:08 AM
Centerline
Quote:
Originally posted by spl_dodge
OK, now I have never painted a vehicle before, so where could I go to read and learn..any good books with pictorials in them?
I would go to AutoBodyStore.com and buy Len's Painting 101 video. Also spend some time reading the posts on his board. That place is populated by a bunch of professional auto painters that can answer almost any paint related question.

Centerline
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com
11-05-2003 06:38 AM
spl_dodge Man, I am getting some good info here. I am in the process of building my new house now, I finished the grading this past weekend and will start the footings this coming weekend. Now along with the house, I am building a 1500 sq. ft. shop. Now I build cabinets and custom furniture, but I also need a place to work on my 51 Ford and my 98 Dodge 4x4. Seeing as how I will need to paint cabinets and paint the trucks, I now know exactly what I need to do for the spray booth.

OK, now I have never painted a vehicle before, so where could I go to read and learn..any good books with pictorials in them? I would start off with small parts first and junker parts for experimenting...
11-05-2003 06:30 AM
Centerline
Quote:
Originally posted by Dragon J
Question- what type of lights are you using?? I've always had bare 100watt bulbs in my garage but am now building a BIG garage with dedicated paint booth and don't want the expense of explosion proof lights. Many have told me of fluorescent blowing up from ballast spark, halogen exploding because of being bumped, etc., etc. I know guys who use simple toffer flourescents and haven't had problems. What is your advice?
I have two double tube florescent fixtures on the ceiling and to augment them I added three 100 Watt bulbs with reflectors up high. I then used three sets of halogen shop lights about 4' off the ground and placed them at three of the four corners so I could get good lighting down the sides and back of the cab. One thing is for sure, you can't have too much lighting when painting. It's the only way you can find dry areas and make sure you cover everything evenly.

I have now torn down the paint booth and put everything back in order in the garage. Upon close inspection of the cab I found four small runs. Two the size of a quarter or half dollar and a couple about 10" long on the firewall. All will sand out completely.

One technique a long time custom painter gave me for sanding out runs was to start with 600 wet wrapped around a piece of paint stick. Being very gentle use the 600 to remove the major portion of the run. Once that's done I use an Air Vantage sander (air powered hand held sander designed for dry sanding paint) and 1500 dry finishing film to go over the whole vehicle followed by buffing. Using the Air Vantage sander allows one person to completely sand an entire paint job in a couple hours where it would take a whole day color sanding by hand. Unless you have royally screwed something up in the process when you're done you should wind up with a near perfect glass finish.

Centerline
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com
11-04-2003 08:31 PM
Ranchero_65 Centerline , Thanks much for the info! Should be a big help to me and others I'm sure.
11-04-2003 06:48 PM
302 Z28
Quote:
Originally posted by hlweyl
I live in a neighborhood where the houses are about 15' apart and kids playing all over the place.
Solution there is to paint after hours, or early in the AM.

Vince
11-04-2003 01:47 PM
TurboS10 My opinion.......disclaimer......I am just a weekend garage painter.

Excellent outline. I would just add that it is hard to have too much ventilation. I am not sure how much air the box fans move, but I dont think it is a ton. If you are painting the entire body, the paint haze will get thick on you if you dont have enough ventilation. Makes it hard to see no matter how much light you have. I use a 2500 cfm fan which gave me an air change about every 1.5 minutes for my booth. That was borderline. With another at 3000 cfm, you could get good positive pressure and really move some air. I was not concerned about debris because the outside of my booth just went to the inside of my shop, which is relatively clean. The furnace filter works great, or it did for me as well.

As for lighting, I like the 1000 watt halogens on stands. You can set one at each end of the car on opposing sides and can see very well. I also have four 8' florecents overhead. When you are done, the halogens fold up and go under the work bench.

Another tip from experience is plan your attack. Make sure you have everything you could possibly need layed out and easy to access. I like to have a good 8 feet on my workbench with all the paint and materials organized nicely. Go through what you are going to to in your head before you start. For those of us that dont to this every day, it is very easy to miss something or forget to get everything before starting. When you are ready, lock the door behind you so your friendly neighbor does not come over and open the door and contaminate your clean work space and paint job. When you are finished, you need to lock yourself out. Walking in and out and looking at it will just give a good opportunity for crap to get in your new paint. Give it a couple hours then go admire.

Chris
11-04-2003 10:14 AM
hlweyl Great thread, this should be a sticky that stays to the top!

Question: with the fumes/overspray exiting the garage, should I take any precautions after that point. I live in a neighborhood where the houses are about 15' apart and kids playing all over the place.
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