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smog ?

2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  75gmck25 
#1 ·
I have a 1995 chevy s10 2.2....motor needed to be replaced so instead of having mines rebuilt, I purchased a used motor SAME YEAR AND ALSO A 2.2 , took it to a machine shop and once done I (we) installed it and it started up with no problem. thank god, 2 days later started it again and idle was high pin point the problem (egr VALVE) and replaced it.....FROM HOME I DROVE IT STRAIGHT TO SMOG CENTER AND IT FAILED:confused: I ASKED THE GUY IF HE COULD TELL ME WHAT AREA DID IT FAIL, HE SAID IT WOULD COST ME 85 DOLLARS TO TELL ME. POOR OLE ME JUST WANTED AN ANSWER NOT SOMEONE TO TAKE WHAT I BARELY HAVE,,,I NEED MY TAGS. A COUPLE OF PPL I TALKED TO SAID I SHOULD HAVE RAN IT AROUND 30 MILES BEFORE I TOOK IT IN. IS THAT TRUE.
 
#2 ·
The vehicle's catalytic converter system needs to be at operating temperature before the unburned gasses from the engine will be consumed by the converter. I run my vehicles for about 30 highway miles before I get an E test to ensure that all systems are at operating temperature.

My Wife's car, according to the production date is having it's 20 the birthday in November and has never failed the E-tests we need to take every 2 years up here in Canada. There are products available that guarantee's that you will pass an E-test. I have never used one but have had the opportunity to read the instructions. They claim that if you pour 1 pint of this product into into 12 to 16 gallons of gas and run the vehicle for 30 to 45 minutes after it has reached operating temperature, you will pass the E-test. Now Christina, here might be a that "dumb" question you where talking about in your introduction...LOL. Is it possible that 1 pint of this product poured into a gas tank with 12 gallons of fuel in it and run for 30 minutes will make the difference of passing or failing an E-test? (1 pint of product, 12 gallons of fuel, run for 30 minutes...my rough calculation would suggest that maybe 1/5th of an ounce of product has gone through your vehicles exhaust system...that would be one amazing powerful product...LOL)

Hope this helps Christina.

Ray
 
#3 ·
A COUPLE OF PPL I TALKED TO SAID I SHOULD HAVE RAN IT AROUND 30 MILES BEFORE I TOOK IT IN. IS THAT TRUE.
OBD II emissions control systems do self monitoring. This requires sustained driving under specific conditions. If the engine has not been driven under these conditions, the ECU will indicate that it is not ready during a smog test, so yes, this is true. What we don't know is if this it true for your particular case. First, 1995 was a transition year for GM OBD systems, so I don't know if your particular truck has these self diagnostics or not. Second, were there any codes stored in the computer before you changed the engine, and were they cleared? The OBD II computers will not clear codes simply by disconnecting the battery. They need to be actively cleared using a scan tool. You need to find someone with a real scan tool (not just a code reader) to figure out what is going on with your ECU.
 
#4 ·
69 wide track, thank you for replying to my post, lol on the product, it would be, but one would rely on a product that really doesn't have to be put in ones vehicle, I say that because down the road you might be told that due that product you stated you use, now another problem was found.lol,,,,thanks again.
 
#5 ·
joe padavano, thank you for the info. yes our truck has the OBD system, I was told that the only time one uses a code reader is if your check engine light was on. also no codes were stored nor cleared, on the truck. when I got to a star certified smog shop, the lady taking down my info, told me she needed the miles and I told her that the motor was rebuilt and installed the day prior. if she had passed (not saying she didn't)info to the tech, I wonder if he would have mentioned anything about the codes to me. So that is what Im going to work on next. thanks..
 
#7 ·
Since it's OBD I, there is no drive cycle requirement. OBD I computers don't have enough computing horsepower to run the self-diagnostic that OBD II systems do. Driving the car won't help that issue, but if it is a brand new motor, driving it enough to break in the motor and seat the rings will absolutely make a difference.

A code reader only read stored codes, which is why I said to use a scan tool, NOT a code reader. The scan tool monitors all the data available in the ECU and will tell you exactly what the engine is doing. You can leave the scan tool connected while you drive and monitor engine performance under actual operating conditions.
 
#6 ·
That S-10 is considered to be a gross polluter. Find a smog guy that will tune it to pass smog, test, then have him tune it so it will run. I had the same problem. If you're in Cal., you might have to go to a referee station. Good luck.
 
#8 ·
Let's get back to the original posting.

How can the station tell you that your vehicle fails the test, but it costs extra to tell you why it failed? Every state I've dealt with requires the test station to give you a printout of why it failed, and from there you can usually figure out where to start troubleshooting. If they still won't provide that info, I would make a formal complaint to the state DMV.

Bruce
 
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