|08-31-2007 11:23 AM|
Thanks, wow I didn't even notice the date, will check that next time. I will mostly be doing priming, and chassis work in the garage. Will rent a spary booth for the final coats though.
Thanks again. Dest1971
|08-30-2007 08:43 PM|
Dest.... First, I would have started a new thread rather than bring back one that is 4 years old. As far as furnace filters, don't use cheap ones, as they let more out than they stop. The more expensive ones will plug up faster, but that means that they are stopping more stuff. You might check with your paint supplier for booth filters. They are designed for that purpose. I would be a little concerned about painting a car in a townhome complex anyway.
|08-30-2007 06:41 PM|
I am looking into doing the same thing with fans and furnace filters. Here is my big worrry, how well do the furnace filters work, I live in a town home complex, and am concerned that paint might escape, and get on some of the neighbors cars. I really don't want to upset them any more then my welding and grinding at 1:00 AM.
Great information, Thanks
|11-07-2003 05:56 AM|
|thrown_hammer||I have a feeling I should subscribe to this thread for future reference.|
|11-06-2003 04:00 PM|
|11-06-2003 12:41 PM|
|spl_dodge||Thanks for the ABS link centerline...I spent about 2 hours on that site yesterday. It is a very onformative site and I am sure that I will frequent it.|
|11-06-2003 06:43 AM|
Cool! I'll have to try that.
|11-05-2003 10:21 PM|
I found an easier way for your door. Go to a building supplier that deals with "remodels". They have this stick-on zipper that just sticks to your plastic. All you do is un-zip the zipper and cut the plastic with a sharp knife. Then step into the paint room and Zip the thing shut. Works great! When you are finished just keep the zipper for the next job.
|11-05-2003 08:08 AM|
|11-05-2003 07:38 AM|
Man, I am getting some good info here. I am in the process of building my new house now, I finished the grading this past weekend and will start the footings this coming weekend. Now along with the house, I am building a 1500 sq. ft. shop. Now I build cabinets and custom furniture, but I also need a place to work on my 51 Ford and my 98 Dodge 4x4. Seeing as how I will need to paint cabinets and paint the trucks, I now know exactly what I need to do for the spray booth.
OK, now I have never painted a vehicle before, so where could I go to read and learn..any good books with pictorials in them? I would start off with small parts first and junker parts for experimenting...
|11-05-2003 07:30 AM|
I have now torn down the paint booth and put everything back in order in the garage. Upon close inspection of the cab I found four small runs. Two the size of a quarter or half dollar and a couple about 10" long on the firewall. All will sand out completely.
One technique a long time custom painter gave me for sanding out runs was to start with 600 wet wrapped around a piece of paint stick. Being very gentle use the 600 to remove the major portion of the run. Once that's done I use an Air Vantage sander (air powered hand held sander designed for dry sanding paint) and 1500 dry finishing film to go over the whole vehicle followed by buffing. Using the Air Vantage sander allows one person to completely sand an entire paint job in a couple hours where it would take a whole day color sanding by hand. Unless you have royally screwed something up in the process when you're done you should wind up with a near perfect glass finish.
|11-04-2003 09:31 PM|
|Ranchero_65||Centerline , Thanks much for the info! Should be a big help to me and others I'm sure.|
|11-04-2003 07:48 PM|
|11-04-2003 02:47 PM|
My opinion.......disclaimer......I am just a weekend garage painter.
Excellent outline. I would just add that it is hard to have too much ventilation. I am not sure how much air the box fans move, but I dont think it is a ton. If you are painting the entire body, the paint haze will get thick on you if you dont have enough ventilation. Makes it hard to see no matter how much light you have. I use a 2500 cfm fan which gave me an air change about every 1.5 minutes for my booth. That was borderline. With another at 3000 cfm, you could get good positive pressure and really move some air. I was not concerned about debris because the outside of my booth just went to the inside of my shop, which is relatively clean. The furnace filter works great, or it did for me as well.
As for lighting, I like the 1000 watt halogens on stands. You can set one at each end of the car on opposing sides and can see very well. I also have four 8' florecents overhead. When you are done, the halogens fold up and go under the work bench.
Another tip from experience is plan your attack. Make sure you have everything you could possibly need layed out and easy to access. I like to have a good 8 feet on my workbench with all the paint and materials organized nicely. Go through what you are going to to in your head before you start. For those of us that dont to this every day, it is very easy to miss something or forget to get everything before starting. When you are ready, lock the door behind you so your friendly neighbor does not come over and open the door and contaminate your clean work space and paint job. When you are finished, you need to lock yourself out. Walking in and out and looking at it will just give a good opportunity for crap to get in your new paint. Give it a couple hours then go admire.
|11-04-2003 11:14 AM|
Great thread, this should be a sticky that stays to the top!
Question: with the fumes/overspray exiting the garage, should I take any precautions after that point. I live in a neighborhood where the houses are about 15' apart and kids playing all over the place.
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