|02-28-2008 09:28 PM|
> Thanks for the link!
> Is there a problem with making the file available as an attachment here?
No, not at all. Last fall one of the board members and even one of the Moderators were jerks to me so I just don't frequent this board too much any more so I'm not too familiar with what the board's capabilities are so attaching it to a post just didn't occur to me, sorry about that!
Ooops! Guess I was wrong, I just tried to upload the pdf and it's too large to be attached.
> Permission to distribute appears to be given by the author
Yes, permission to freely distribute has been given and is encouraged! If you would like to confirm that with the author just drop him a pm, he's also a member here.
> I've never built a frame from scratch, but a quick look
> through these plans leaves me with the impression
> they're complete enough for the job.
Yes, Youngster's intent was to help you build a strong and safe foundation for your project, but he didn't go into many details beyond the frame and the front and rear suspensions . . . as he said in the plans, he wants you to build your car. He just helping you create a tried and true, safe foundation for you to start your project on.
> That is a significant contribution.
Yes it is!
> It's a work deserving of thanks to Youngster for
> the plans
I've said it before, but I can't say it enough . . . thanks Youngster! It's just great to have someone of your knowledge, skills, and experience level mentoring us!
> and thanks to SLR_65 for the file format.
> (The PDF yields no errors even with the
> most obsolete viewer that I use. All of
> the text can be selected for copy/paste
> operations, so it's not just a collection
> of binary images. Well done!)
Thank you Grouch! I put a lot of effort into making the best looking, most compatible document I could -> it's really nice that someone noticed!
If anyone else would like some help in a similar project please drop me a note - I'd be glad to help!
I will read up on the Creative Commons License and discuss it with Youngster, thank you so much for bringing it to our attention.
|02-28-2008 05:47 AM|
Thanks for the link! Is there a problem with making the file available as an attachment here?
Permission to distribute appears to be given by the author, on the first page: "I don't want anything for these plans, all I ask is that you freely pass them along to others." That page also contains what amounts to a dated signature by the author. I also note that page contains a note of thanks and acknowledgement to SLR_65 for helping create the PDF.
I've never built a frame from scratch, but a quick look through these plans leaves me with the impression they're complete enough for the job. That is a significant contribution.
It's a work deserving of thanks to Youngster for the plans and thanks to SLR_65 for the file format. (The PDF yields no errors even with the most obsolete viewer that I use. All of the text can be selected for copy/paste operations, so it's not just a collection of binary images. Well done!)
I'd like to suggest that you attach a Creative Commons license to the work, to spell out just what permissions you're granting. You're the copyright holder so only you get to choose.
|02-27-2008 05:25 PM|
Youngster's frame plans are done!
You can download a copy at:
|02-20-2008 09:04 PM|
my 2 cents worth
Over the years I have built 6 T buckets, I still have the body I found in 1951, It's on the second chassis. My thoughts on steering . the first one I built had 5 1/2 turns lock to lock in the steering box so thats what i used to design the linkage. ... the first time out when i put my foot in it it got real squirlly and I couldn't turn the steering wheel fast enough to get out of trouble, My son is building a 22 dodge bucket with SBC and i think we sill set it up with about 2 1'2 turns lock to lock but the pitman arm will have a couple of extra holes to slow it down or speed it up depending how it feels. we have been building our own hairpins so here's some tips....we cut the 7/8 DOM tubing an inch longer than the finish length for each end that gets threaded...
I use a slow speed electricians right angle drill and use the smallest bit that removes metal then keep changing bits until I get the size required for the tap. We have been using 5/8 clevis es so we change to a 5/8 bit and drill out that extra one inch ... then when we tap-the tap slides in one inch and goes straight. the nest step is to cut off that extra inch re drill for the tap size and retap to the full depth. this gives good straigh threads
|02-03-2008 05:01 PM|
T bucket plans
Hello....The plans are finished! The problem is the response has been soooo huge. I have requests from all over the states and even from outside our borders. I wasn't expecting anything like this. SLR_65 has thankfully offered to help. Stay tuned for how you can get your copy.
Thanks to everyone who offered to help. Ron
|12-26-2007 10:28 AM|
I just went to shell valley's web site,[url]www.shellvalley.com[url],and it appears it may be a different incarnation of the same company.comments?
|12-25-2007 11:33 PM|
Yeah, I kick myself every time I read one of those old ads! (Bird also made other kits as well as the Meyers Manx style dune buggy kits too!)
Valley is just a stone's throw from me!
If I recall correctly I think Bird also made fiberglass satellite dishes in the old big C band dish days.
I may be wrong, but haven't they became Shell Valley Cobra? (it seems I was told that somewhere, but I don't know if it's true or not)
|12-25-2007 11:18 PM|
Just a lighthearted deviation away from the regular discussion:
Some may remember this ad. Makes me wish I took advantage of this "back in the day"
|12-02-2007 09:47 AM|
'23 T bucket ?
SLR...Thanks for the CD. I've never seen those plans before. The Watts link is the best type of lateral control. Now we have a very good example to use. Thanks again!
|12-02-2007 09:40 AM|
Attached is a jpeg of the relevent page.
GREAT stuff Youngster!
|12-02-2007 08:54 AM|
T bucket Plans
The more I look at youngster's tapered rails at the front, the slicker it appears. I was also originally going to go with 2 x 3 x .188 steel but 1 1/2 x 3 along with the taper will look dimensionally good, I think, on a small rod.
Great frame plan Youngster.
|11-30-2007 10:40 PM|
T bucket plans
I'm not very good at this computer yet but my brother said he'd show me how to put these packets in a folder to send out at Christmas. We'll see if this old dog can learn a new trick. Thanks for the offer. I'm not turning you down,just want to see how this works first.
|11-30-2007 09:40 PM|
Youngster - can you scan these plans?
If not, I could do the first set next week....
That way, it costs you almost nothing to send the plans out...
|11-28-2007 10:33 PM|
|11-21-2007 02:18 PM|
Some info on cheap but good paint jobs:
"....if you have reasonable skills and some patience, you can attain any level of quality you like. There are a couple of tricks to this that I discovered years ago when I started racing. Race bikes get crashed a lot and not wanting to waste a bunch of money on something that doesn't help you win, I was determined to find a fast, cheap, easy, repairable way to keep my bike looking sharp. My worst year, I had five high speed crashes (still won five championships that year) and every time, the next week, the bike rolled out of the trailer looking like new.
The couple of tricks I mentioned are.......use all rattle can paint and give it time to "out gas" before clear coating over it. This may sound nuts to you, but the quality of the paint is not critical once you apply a two part automotive clear coat. That seals in your rattle can base coat for many many years. There are literally thousands of different colors available between all the car and truck colors covering many years of different models, plus all the other various decorator colors from hardware stores and the like. These paints dry very fast between coats, so when you make a mistake, you can wet sand within minutes and fix it. There are all kinds of tapes available in many widths to help you to do clean, tight masking turns between colors. You can spot fill over your colors if you find a flaw that needs filling, give it a quick shot of prime and then hit it with your finish color again. You really can't make a mistake that isn't quickly fixable. When you are satisfied with your base color, pin striping, decals, etc...........wait at least a week for the color coat to "out gas" or cure. If you don't, the clear coat will lift the color coat. When you are ready to do the clear coat, start with a light mist coat to help set the base colors. Minutes later, this mist coat will dry and you can do one or two finish coats. These automotive two part clear coats are extremely tough and have a super high gloss "wet look" They are the same clear coats paints used by car companies and last for many years.
These clear coats are extremely toxic, so if you do not have or don't wish to purchase the proper safety equipment to use them, let a local auto body shop handle this last step. You will still save a fortune on your paint job....My paint is all from a True Value Hardware store. Black, white, green, yellow and silver. To buy those five colors alone in automotive base coat would be hundreds. I spent maybe $25. I seriously doubt if I could have gotten a five color paint job of this quality for much under $2k........possibly ........would have cost a lot more."
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