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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-19-2011 11:18 PM
cobalt327 Until this post was resurrected on 11-17-11, the last post was 8 years ago. The OP hasn't been on since 02-08-2004...
11-19-2011 10:56 PM
oldblue1968chevy +2 for the 350 vortec roller cam and vortec heads...

but can you still run the mech fuel pump?..
11-19-2011 04:52 PM
454C10 I would check on craigs list and get a COMPLETE 350 vortec engine from a 1996 to 2000 truck. These engine came with factory roller cams and vortec heads.

should be able to get one in good shape for less than $700. Then get an intake, 750 holley carb, long tube headers, and maybe a little more cam. should be able to make 350hp/400ftlbs and still maintain a near stock idle.
11-18-2011 08:53 PM
stevechevy
Re SBC '55 truck...

BIG Al alias Al,
Thank you for the post. But I think a previous member mentioned the
$1,500 budget.
Being I am a senior hot rodder, I decided not to build an engine from
scratch, but instead, get the Chevy high performance crate engine.
One of my insureds can get me a great deal. Then I have the great
50,000 mile/two year warranty AND Chevy high performance crate motors
are fantastic, from what I hear.
My only decision...Whether to get the ZZ4/350...355 HP and 405# torque
or the Fast Burn 385...385 HP and 385# torque
or the ZZ383/425.......425 HP and 449# torque
It's going in a '55 Chev stepside short bed. Then figuring out the steering.
Installing a C4 front and rear suspension will cut a little weight and a
700R4 for a trans with the C4 rearend w/3.42's should be a good combo.
Have to do a little math to see really how fast I want to get thru the
intersection. Any recommendations, young man....???
Best regards,
Steve
11-18-2011 08:08 PM
THE BIG AL With a used engine and required quality machine work you will be hard pressed to build a engine for 1500.00



If your budget is 1500.00 purchase a NEW GM crate 350.

You can find them at most Gm dealers, it's like a car, shop around. You will find your best deal at a GM dealer that is a level one power-train dist.
Or order from summit, and sometimes it's cheaper if no sales tax.

You can make performance changing things in time as funds become available.

The engine will be virgin new! And have a 3yr 100k warranty.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10067353/

Or!! Save up a few hundred and purchase a 350/290hp engine
Absolute best band for the buck. 2yr 50k warranty
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10067353/

IMHO
Al
11-18-2011 06:59 PM
stevechevy
finding the right 350" Chev

Studebaker,
When I see that name, I remember the "good ole days" of the Silver Hawk
and Golden Hawk in my high school days. Rather quick for those times.
After doing all the research on building the motor from the ground up and
using the best parts, I called Dale. (Armstrong) He is undoubtedly one of
the best mechanics in the nation. The papers just announced that Kenny
Bernstein was retiring after thirty years of drag racing and how great he was.
The reason he was great and the first to break 300 MPH in the 1/4...was
Dale Armstrong was the crew chief. Kenny just steered the dragster.
Dale strongly suggested I call dear ole Chevrolet and ordering the new ZZ383/425HO crate engine.
425 horse and 449 pounds of torque.
1) 24 month/50,000 mile warranty
2) Dale said their components were the best.
3) Compared to the ZZ4 350/350, for $900 more, you pick up 70 horse and
44 pounds of torque. Couple that with that 3.06 first gear in the 700R4,
and the truck will jump thru the intersection.
Do you agree the C4 ('86 to '95 Vet) front and rear suspension would be one
of the best choice under the truck...The Vet has 3.42 gear so with the 3.06
gear in the 700R4, it should be good out of the hole with all that torque.
So there you have it. Thank you for your post but I will go down to Chevy
and get that good complete engine.
Best regards,
Steve
11-18-2011 04:43 PM
Studebaker
SBC for truck

If you already do not have the engine /trans etc, I would check Craigslist, local nickel saver, local newspaper ads, etc. Maybe leave a note on the local machine shop message board as to what you are looking for. You can probably get a running or rebuildable SBC 350 for $100,00 to $400,00. In my area this is very common. I would try to get one complete with all brackets, mounts Etc. The small things will nickel and dime you to death! Even if you don't use some of the parts on the engine, you can sell them to offset your project cost. I have even purchased a non running parts car and sold off the chassis after I took the engine / transmission out for more than I paid for the car to start with. Great to get a FREE engine this way. Word of caution, never buy a engine without actually going and looking at it. I have found that "great condition" to one person, could be used as a boat anchor for another person.
11-16-2011 11:49 PM
stevechevy
building small block Chevy

In regards to building the small block, my son and I built his '57 Bel Air as follows.
Bought a used 350". Bored it 30" over, Dart heads, (just over 10-1)
Edelbrock manifold, headers, Isky Z-20 solid lifter and good ignition.
The engine only puts out around 360 to 370 as lift was only around .455.
But, the secret was the drive train. My son wanted a very streetable car
but, like his Dad, didn't want to be second thru the intersection.
We put in a 4.11 12 bolt-posi. Then, instead of the 350 or turbo 400
trans, we put the 700R4. As you know, with 4.11s and regular street tires,
you're doing 3500 RPM at 70. With the 700R4, (30% OD), you drop to 2,450
and cruise nicely down the freeway. But the best advantage...the turbo 350
and 400 have a 2.48 first gear. The 700R4 has a 3.06. It would be the
equivilant first gear ratio, of putting 5.07's in the turbo trans car.
Needless to say, I pulled along side of him at an intersection in Southern Calif. I was in my '99 Vet - six speed. I notice his car "sat up" as he pushed
the gas and leaned on the brake. The light turned green. I shot thru the
intersection and was going to look in the rear mirror for my son. WRONG.
My front bumper was even with his right REAR fender wheel JUST THRU
the intersection. I drove with Dale Armstrong a few times so I know how
to launch, but this kid smoked me! I powered shifted to second, then into
3rd and at 107MPH, (3.42 gears) I powered shifted to 4th. At that point, I
was almost up to his door handle. The Vet ran very high 12's at 109. (sea
level) I would estimate my son's small horsepower Bel Air would be around
107 or so at 12.85 to 12.90. Not a lot of horsepower, but low gearing to move
3,500 pounds or so thru the intersection. Later that night over dinner,
he said, "Don't feel bad Dad. I smoked two Turbo Porsches thru the intersection but I shut off after grabbing second gear as here they come.
The dinner tasted better after that. So the 700R4 is fantastic off the line
with that first gear being SO MUCH lower... 4.11s X 2.48 = 10.16 first
gear ratio. 4.11s X 3.06 = 12.57 So 5.07 gears X 4.11s = 12.57. Good luck.
Is a Mustang II best front suspension for '55 pickup...anybody.. Stevechevy
11-20-2003 03:32 PM
Pianoman
Re: questions on building a small block chevy

Quote:
Originally posted by ATMRacerTX
I have about 1500 and i am wanting to build a small block chevy my questions are what should I look for in buying a block, heads, intake..etc and what mods should i do to get the most out of this enginefor the money?
Well, if I were you Iīd do it like this:
1) Lift the heads and look at the cylinders at least. Or tear the whole engine apart and check it out.
2) Donīt just spend money on hp. Make sure you start spending it on making things last.
3) If youīre going for high rpm's, balance it. It will be worth it.
4) Now you can start thinking on getting high comp pistons, kick-a** heads, roller cam etc etc.
The only problem is that doing it like this cost money. Much money. On the other hand you donīt have to make repairs as often.
Last but not least, do what you do now: Ask. And remeber no answer is an absolute truth (neither is this).
11-20-2003 12:39 PM
ATMRacerTX I have plenty of room under the hood it is a 57 chevy truck. I am looking to make a strong pulling engine not at high RPM. It is a primarly to pull my other cars, but i would like to be able to unhook the trailer and dirve it on the strip. I know 1500 is not a lot but i have several other prodjects going on at the moment. so that is close to my limit at this time. I have a 6al and distributar, headers, carbs and tons of stuff for big blocks but i want a little better milage that 4 that is what i am getting now with a 496 i would like to put this engine into into my wifes nova. I have tons of stuff to trade but only 1500 cash. Do you know the part numbers of a good block and heads. I have a friend at the machine shop that does most of my work for nothing as far as balancing and honing lineboring, etc.. I am not a small block man I know very little about them. I have found a 4 bolt main block with a steel crank but the crank is worn out are all 4 bolts good or are there better ones that others?
11-20-2003 12:18 PM
cheezbay For $1500 I would recommend that you find one already built and some stuff to it. Summit has a full setup for right at that. You could also pick up rebilt one minus intake and carb from your neighbood parts store for around $1000. Your best bet, however, would be to find one that an individual is selling.
11-20-2003 12:17 PM
killerformula do you have any parts right now? What kind of HP are you looking for, just max that you can get?

Here's my two cents: People sell good stuff on ebay because they are willing to take a hit on it because they're broke and need the money (ha ha, not always, but my point is you can get some good deals). This means that you can get a good short-block all built and balanced for hundreds less than you can by gettin the stuff you yourself, tearing it down, machine work (there's the big price-tag right there, machine work) and parts. I got a 388 stroker balanced with scat crank and a damper for 690 all built on ebay. Has some nice slugs in it too.

You can get some budget parts at summit too. YOu might want to save some bills and get a summit cam. Weiand makes good intakes, I've done a lot of research lately and most people say for the price and the height of the RPM edelbrock (height meaning it doesn't fit under a lot of stock hoods) go with the stealth. THey perform about the same anyway. YOu could get a cheap set of headers from summit too, just coat them as best you can when you get them. HEI ignitions are good, if you have one use that. YOu can up the output for like 40 with an MSD module from summit. The big ticket item that is hard to get around are heads. Cheapest I've seen dart IE head for is 680 for the 180 cc.

You don't have to go nuts on bolts, but get good quality ones. I would say the same for gaskets, go felpro or mr. Gasket.

Hope this helps-

K
11-20-2003 12:00 PM
ATMRacerTX
questions on building a small block chevy

I have about 1500 and i am wanting to build a small block chevy my questions are what should I look for in buying a block, heads, intake..etc and what mods should i do to get the most out of this enginefor the money?

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