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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-08-2014 08:54 PM
timothale
lefty

My son who has put the most miles on it is left handed. It was really an opps. I had it all apart when adding the motor drive systen and reinforcements, The frame is slotted so both the upper and lower shafts blocks are adjustable
04-08-2014 04:34 PM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
I've got some better picts of my quick release. I welded 2 pieces of angle iron up right with a gap for 3/8 bolts, shown in the second pict. in the first pict I welded a piece of bar stock and threaded the hole for the crank , on the bottom of the all thread I welded 2 nuts to move the link up or down,
Hey Tim, I just happened to notice that your shafts are mounted on the opposite as mine ,is there a reason for that? left handed?
03-15-2014 07:02 PM
Old Fool
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I have a servo on my Adler sewing machine and know exactly what you are saying.

I have had and used my bead roller for 25 years and it is true that control is needed but having 2 hands free to guide the metal will be the big benefit. I hope and believe a constant speed will be manageable as long as it is geared slow enough. I think I will mount the motor in a way that it will be easy to remove the chain and attach a hand wheel which in itself would be a big improvement over a crank. That would be an option for any intricate patterns that had to be done.

Thanks for your thoughts.

"[quoto]Tech69 "I'd love to see your ideas. I just got a bead roller and plan to motorize it too."

Henry, you demonstrated pulling a pushed in fender with a metal plate the other day which is going to work perfectly for me where my car was "tagged" in the rear end. I jave learned sooo much here. Hopefully what I doing this will help you and some others. That is what this forum is all about and why I enjoy hanging around here so much.

John

John
A old steering wheel works great to replace the crank handle.
03-04-2014 05:30 PM
gearheadslife don't people sell old junk bikes near you that you could buy for 10 bucks and have 18 speeds for your roller.. or pick what sprocket to put it on as needed (like a drill press) seems the sprockets would be cheaper that way.. and multi speed for 10 bucks
03-04-2014 04:38 PM
deadbodyman That third axis is pretty cool...
03-04-2014 06:59 AM
timothale
Fence

I have a fence for mine, shown in # 13, Not a good pict , it is reversible one direction the fence is close to the rollers, and switched the opposite direction for more depth. lazze has a fence somewhere in his Youtubes, he also uses a roller fence for making curves. another handy item is a removable plywood support table for doing larger panels by yourself.
a good view of lazze's fence starting at .50
and his 3 rd axis
03-04-2014 05:37 AM
deadbodyman Any of you guys build a fence or the roller?
01-09-2014 11:08 PM
timothale
tip # 6

My wife asked me what I was doing trying to sneak her clothes iron out of the laundry room.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8_FP6A_mvg
01-09-2014 08:58 PM
dsraven hey, you guys ever seen the you tube stuff by lazze metal works? pretty good ideas and help for fab idiots like me. there is a couple others by meatalman sweden, check-em out when you have a minute or three.
01-09-2014 08:45 PM
dsraven
pics explained

ok, the pics came through, now just so you can figure it out, the bead roller was an el cheapo deluxe unit bought at kms tools in calgary. probably the same as your harbour freight units. made in china but not great for anything but thin sheet because it flexxed too much. i needed to roll some 16 ga floor sheet so i re-inforced it with 1/2" steel. then added some pipe nipples to store the extra dies and shims. then tried it but found it hard to roll anything while cranking the hand lever. i had some extra struff laying around the shop so I fabbed up the rest. one pic shows the treadle hanging on the storage pipe nipple, just to keep it off the floor. the treadle is just some extra 16 ga with a cheap hinge on one end and a spring from the junk bin to return the treadle to stopped position., all in all it was a day or so to fix it all but some of that was think time to put together what I had sitting around and make it work. I did have to get the starter shaft turned down but that was $20 cash deal at a local machine shop. bought pizza for the guys prolly, ha ha. anyway, hope it helps somebody for ideas.
dennis
01-09-2014 08:32 PM
dsraven
powered bead roller ideas

I used a gear reduction starter from an '02 chevy malibu, gutted it and shortened the housing some. then had the armature turned down on the end so it would be 1/2" to fit my drill. then drilled out the end cap of the starter so that turned down shaft stuck through the end of the starter. i used that to power a 350 chevy flywheel that was fitted to the bead roller shaft using a weld on sprocket hub from princess auto (canadians version of harbour freight). the flywheel fits where the old hand crank used to go. then fabbed up a mount for the drill and a lever arrangement to push the drill trigger with a gas pedal style foot treadle that is rigged up with some bicycle brake cable parts to pull the drill trigger lever. it all works pretty well. i will see if I can get the pics to load. if not I will see if I can figure out how to start my own thread and attach some pics from there.
01-01-2014 06:49 PM
timothale
bead roller quick release

I've got some better picts of my quick release. I welded 2 pieces of angle iron up right with a gap for 3/8 bolts, shown in the second pict. in the first pict I welded a piece of bar stock and threaded the hole for the crank , on the bottom of the all thread I welded 2 nuts to move the link up or down,
11-30-2013 08:51 AM
timothale
winch

Superwinch 12 Volt Utility Winch — 2000-Lb. Capacity, Model# 1220210 | 1,000 - 2,900 Lb. Capacity Winches| Northern Tool + Equipment
northern tool has a winch that looks like the one I got from HF that has the yellow controller. The yellow controller is like the one Jim Stabe made and I copied to make a foot pedal. 'With the 12 V one you need a battery or the booster pack to run it.
the HF ad doesn't show which type of controll it has.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...tm_source=1040
their video says 12 fr control cable. I bought the cheapest ATV winch last year for $ 50 to use on my dune buggy and It came with a key fob control, it would be hard to make a foot control for it. HF also has the 110 V winch on sale for $ 150. but I got a 25 % off cupon . so the price discount would mean in the shop I wouldn't need to buy a battery or battery pack
11-29-2013 09:30 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulletnose26 View Post
I have followed this with great interest, thanks for sharing. This is a great idea.
My questions are....
When you roll your bead, is it done in one pass, to the finished depth of the bead?
How is the speed, while turning radiuses ?
The bead is done with one pass. If you try to make double passes you will get "shadow" lines where you make a slightly different pass.

The speed is just what I had calculated. About an inch/second. It seems to be just right. I would not want it to be any faster though

As far as radiuses go it is slow enough to turn gentle radiuses just fine, You can cycle the pedal for sharper ones.

With all this said. I had already bought the drive motor before I did a lot of research. The guys that are using the winch drives make some strong arguments for them. The neutral gate would be cool to allow it to be used by hand and you can buy a winch for what I paid for a Chinese sprocket that was so bad I had to grind on it for the chain to fit it.

Harbor Freight has a winch on sale now for 49.95.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Awesome John! Just put a chain guard on that thing. Damn nice work there John!

Brian
Yes. Also need a dust cover for the top of the motor. We just ran out of time.

John
11-29-2013 08:28 AM
MARTINSR Awesome John! Just put a chain guard on that thing. Damn nice work there John!

Brian
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