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goodwrench crate motor/ cam question

8K views 25 replies 12 participants last post by  Rhansen 
#1 ·
A buddy and I dropped a 350 in a 72 datsun 240z. The motor is a goodwrench crate motor #10066038 made in mexico. I runs like a rapped ape but it needs a little more cam. The motor has about 20,000 miles on it.

I bought the summit 1104 cam and lifter kit 224 intake 224 ex. @.050 and 465 in. and ex.

The motor is stock the way it came. Is this cam too much lift for the stock springs? Will it run good with the 8.5 compression?
I did read and read and some say anything under .480 will be fine while others say anything over .450 will cause bind.
thanks bob
 

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#3 ·
The guy on the ground was looking at the exaust. The temp flex tube connecting the header to the side pipe popped off. After that I took a look, stuck my arm up there of course and burned that crap out of it. I still have that scar..haha.

So you had the same summit cam..the 1104? And are using it on stock valve springs and stock 8.5 compression? Auto or stick? I have a auto. will this cam be ok with the stock converter?
 
#7 ·
I assume that it was not recommended to go above .450 lift because that motor has Vortec heads on it. If this is the case, you will have to get bigger springs to accomodate a more aggressive cam. In order to put a bigger spring in the head, you will have to get the spring seat machined out to fit a bigger spring. Once you get that done, I would use the Comp XE274H cam. I had the XE268H cam in a 355 with Vortec heads that had the spring upgrade, and although the motor ran very well, it would have benefitted from a little bigger cam.

Adam
 
#14 ·
Ok, if the heads are from a 1992 crate motor, then they are not vortec. The Vortec heads werent used until 1996. As far as the springs in the heads go, I would try getting a hold of someone who deals with GM performance parts directly.

Adam
 
#17 ·
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=877&pid=8336

I'd expect the springs to be these (pn 3911068) or equivalent. Same as they used in most all SBC's from the late 60's through the 70's & even into the late 90's on some. GM used them with valve lift up to .460", but the cams had gentler ramps compared to modern aftermarket stuff, so I'd change them to whatever your cam maker recommends.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I called summit tech line and they said with the sumk1104 cam I should get these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G1515&view=1024 springs rated at .490 max lift so I did. Only 43 bucks.
Whats the best way to install the springs with the heads still on the car? With the rope trick or the air trick. With the air trick what and where do i get the valve to put the air in the cylinder. Give me all u know about this. I don't want to mess it up. And any tips on the cam too. thanks for all your help, bob

The compression of the stock crate motor of 8.5..will this be enough for this cam?
 
#20 ·
72chevy240z said:
I called summit tech line and they said with the sumk1104 cam I should get these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G1515&view=1024 springs rated at .490 max lift so I did. Only 43 bucks.
Whats the best way to install the springs with the heads still on the car? With the rope trick or the air trick. With the air trick what and where do i get the valve to put the air in the cylinder. Give me all u know about this. I don't want to mess it up. And any tips on the cam too. thanks for all your help, bob

The compression of the stock crate motor of 8.5..will this be enough for this cam?
Don't use the rope trick. I had a keeper that was stuck in the retainer and I wanted to change it with the heads on. The air compressor wasn't enough to hold the valve closed. I decided to use the rope trick. The rope got stuck in the chamber. I eventually got it out but the valve must have cut a piece of the rope off. It was left behind in the chamber. I ended up with a full teardown to fix a bent piston. If you can't do it with the compressor then take the heads off.
 
#22 ·
lluciano77 said:
Don't use the rope trick. I had a keeper that was stuck in the retainer and I wanted to change it with the heads on. The air compressor wasn't enough to hold the valve closed. I decided to use the rope trick. The rope got stuck in the chamber. I eventually got it out but the valve must have cut a piece of the rope off. It was left behind in the chamber. I ended up with a full teardown to fix a bent piston. If you can't do it with the compressor then take the heads off.
do you got anymore tips on how to change the valve springs with the heads on the engine with an air compressor....because soon i will be changing my cam and i want to change my valve springs too....thank alot in advance.....
 
#23 ·
Screw-in adapters are sold thru Summit and Jegs and others. I made my own by removing the core from an old spark plug and silver soldering a quick dis-connect for the air line. I set the regulator on my air compressor to 125 psi and everything worked fine. Be sure that the piston in the cylinder you are going to apply the air to is at the BOTTOM of its stroke before applying the air. The air will rotate the crank otherwise. If the pan is off when applying the air you will hear air leaking. This is 'normal' and should be no cause for alarm.
 
#24 ·
hey guys i just bought the 10066038 targetmaster block too, was wondering if anyone had any stock specs for this engine. cam, heads, valves, hp , torque
i looked everywhere and couldn't find anything, i wrote goodwrench and they told me it was the same as the 350 LM1 is this true?

thanx
 
#26 ·
I'm going to stick my neck out here and say that is too much duration for 8.5:1 CR. The motor will have little or no bottom end, I'd recommend another point of compression before using that much cam. Use 270 or less adv. dur and you should have more useable power. (I tried a similar cam in an 8.5:1 motor and it was a dog below 3000 rpm, changed to a 267 adv. dur. and was MUCH better, according to DD 2000 the smaller cam was worth 30+ hp and tq.)
 
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