|07-03-2004 07:54 AM|
|oldred||This thing even comes with the gas kit already installed for this price, thats one of the many features it has.|
|07-02-2004 10:20 PM|
Seems like this thread would not be complete without this powder cored wire, discussed here recently, being mentioned. I am all done with the sheet metal welding work on my project else I would have purchased some and tried it. Sure looks impressive to me. ..
|07-02-2004 09:39 PM|
that's the exact machine I have. been playing with it for probably a year. 100% sheemetal work--and I've gotten fair with it.
the nice thing is the ability to convert to gas when you're ready.
|07-02-2004 07:05 PM|
you could be right,
the correct technical terminology is actually GMAW which stands for gas metal arc welding. GTAW is gas tungsten arc welding,FCAW is flux core arc welding, and rod is refered to as SMAW which is shielded metal arc welding. I stand corrected, my humble apologies.
|07-02-2004 07:02 PM|
|oldred||Definitely Metal Inert GAS, micro-wire is a trade name from years ago,I forget which manufacturer but it really doesn't matter anyway. What I really want to do is point out the Hobart 125 mig welder in the latest Harbor Freight catalog. Seems that quite often someone wants to know what welder to buy on a tight budget,well here it is! Item no. 04270-ocxa $329.99. One of the fellows in my shop bought one and I think that this is probably the best 110 volt machine I have ever tried. This thing even has a built in contactor(wire electrically cold until the trigger is pulled) this feature is rarely seen on low priced 110 machines. It is definitely a quality built rig that has a lot of extras and is priced right.|
|07-02-2004 06:16 PM|
There's a thread called "GAS VS MIG" or something like that...where Randy Ferguson shows how he does a fender perfectly using mig.
I understand the process, just haven't mastered it yet.
Basically you should put a bevel on the panels to be joined, so you have a valley between the two. Usually start in the middle and make a few tacks until it completely fills a small area. This is going to shrink the metal. If you unclamped it at this point--you should notice your ends pulling apart (no longer butted together how they should be). If you work the area you just welded with a hammer and dolly, this will crush the weld down...from my experience, if you have an incredibly proud or high tack of filler, you should knock it down with a grinder or sander or whatever before you begin to hammer..but the idea is to crush the weld into that valley.
Keep tacking, it will shrink, hammer it out. With some practice, you can join two panels...even with mig without requiring filler.
|07-02-2004 05:30 PM|
not to nit-pick,
but tungston is actually spelled tungsten. MIG actually means micro-wire inert gas. Just for the sake of quality control of information. This is not meant to undermine your points, just clarify a couple typo's. great thread though.
|06-29-2004 07:40 PM|
|oldred||All wire feeders are NOT mig welders! Flux core gassless feeders are NOT mig. Metal Inert Gas welders require shielding gas, flux core feeders do not and as such are not mig welders.|
|06-29-2004 12:36 PM|
If I'm welding a frame, or anything over 3/16 I use 30 or 35, if I'm welding sheet metal I use the lightest wire I can get. For me it seems to make a smaller bead. I use a snapon mig.
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.
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|06-29-2004 09:12 AM|
|MRGM||i love this site|
|06-27-2004 08:59 PM|
|Roadsire||I bought a miller 175 mig and love it it works great for body work it took some time to get used to welding on sheetmetal as I had never done it but as every one here has mentioned jump around and take your time as heat will warp your metal pull the trigger and release, practice makes perfect as far as cooling with a rag or air this will shrink the metal anmd may cause warpage as well. when you grind dont stay too long as well as this will also cause warping. good luck|
|07-03-2003 03:15 AM|
The other type of wire feed is flux core and or (innershield) it can be used with or without shielding gas depending on the type of flux. This process does leave slag and if the operator is not experienced can get slag entrapment in the weld.
Tig stands for Tungston Inert Gas, it uses a Tungston nonconsumable electrode and is shielded by argon or a mix of argon/helium, it is just a heat souce andyou have to use a filler rod.
Another good way to weld light sheet metal is using an oxt/acetelyne torch. Also a Henrob or Dillon is a good choice. I have one and it has very good heat control but I personally don't care for the design it is heavy and akward to use.
I hope this helps you understand a little better!
|10-17-2002 01:19 PM|
|bullheimer||move up here m'brutha. I'M starting to rust. quoting (what else) sept 2000 HRM:" 110volt (ugh) MIG welder formed a permanent bond. proper wire selection is critical to good results. because thin-guage body sheet metal wont withstand much heat penetration before melting, it is important to load the welder with .o3o non-shielded wire. heavier wire requires more amperage (heat) to initiate the welding process and shielded (flux-type) wire, regardless of gauge, must be run hotter to burn out the impurities contained with the flux." (article did not state if gas was used, and if so, what kind)without knowing that little tid bit of info this aint much help, therefor, ergo and to-wit: i'd use what was posted above.|
|10-15-2002 09:21 PM|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||Rust? What is rust? Oh yeah, I forgot , I live in California!|
|10-15-2002 12:00 PM|
|gaino||Iknow from expirence, being from the humid south they make a special wire that will not get rusty as fast as regular wire. You are not supposed to lube the wire, and after regular wire gets a little rust on it(like mine because it sits mosy of the time) it starts to clog the liner in the handle, and cause the wire not to feed, as far as size goes I use .025 on modern day cars.. I bet that old chevy is thick|
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