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Maaco vs. At-Home Paint Job

222K views 127 replies 46 participants last post by  Jimbo17 
#1 ·
I've been stumped at the decision on what to do about my 1992 Ranger.The paint is faded and I'd really like it to shine better.More or less,it's heavily oxidated.After you wax it out,it'll look good for awhile,then it'll go back to the same state.Of course,this is a "hand-wax job" so to speak.I haven't used a buffer or consulted with a detail shop about a professional buffer job.I will probably spend my money on that first before I decide on what to do about a paint job.

Now,here's the thing..If it does come down to a paint job,should I do it myself or take it to Maaco?If I get a better paint job than their "economy" shot,would it be just like a professional job and last for years?What I'm looking for is a paint job that is equal to a new factory job or better.Can Maaco give me that and it actually last for 5-10 years or longer if it's taken care of properly,(i.e.Weekly wash,Monthly wax,etc.)?

Or,do I do it myself?I have no experience in body work,but my uncle is certified in auto-body.The only thing is,he doesn't really have a "paint-room".Of course,he does have the proper painting setup,he just lacks a dust-free area.He does have a shop though,so I figure that we could throw up some plastic and create a make-shift paint booth.

I just want to get it over with for a decent price.I don't really want to spend over $750,but I guess that I could mark it up to $1,000.That will make the truck look better and also have a better resale value if it ever comes down to that.

Any help on this is appreciated.If you've had any experience with Maaco or know anyone who has,let me know how it went.I know that none of you really approve of them,but if I can get a quality paint job,they'll work fine for me.

Thanks!!

Nightrain
 
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#53 ·
kenseth17 said:
you got everything right, except the sanding between color coats. You don't have to sand between the color coats. You put as much primer on as needed, whatever it takes you to get the amount of fill you need. With experience you can feel when you got things straight and filled. You don't have to prime the feathered areas if they are feathered out good and there is no metal, but it wouldn't hurt if you did. The wetsanding paper is the dark paper like you said designed to be sanded when the surface is kept wet. A da sander just describes the motion the sander takes, or Dual action you can get them at most stores that carry tools like sears. A tack rag is just a sticky material rag that is used to pick up dust that lands on the surface. Any paint supplier will have them and they are cheap so maybe you want to pick up a couple. Wait the day or so after painting and it can be wetsanded and buffed on the same day. I forgot about the bed, but with a gallon of each you should have more then enough. If anything skimp a little on the clear in the bed the color coat will be shiny anyways and it will be hard to wetsand and buff it.It will be easier on the painter if you take the bed off, that way he can easily get the area between the bed and cab, because nothing will be in the way.

Flash is just a term to describe the amount of time it takes for the paint to dry long enough for another coat. It will tell you time between coats on your tech sheets.
Alrighty,now I'm ready ;) .A Dual-Action Sander.The store that I buy the paint from will have it all I reckon.I can just pick up everything there.Robert is suppose to have everything but the paint though.No,I wasn't going to hit the bed.We might put one color coat on it,but I doubt it.Right after it's painted,I'm just going to put a Herculiner on it and a snap-on tonneau bed cover.The paint store will have that wax and grease remover also,correct?All I have to do now is get my stuff and paint :D .

Thanks Again!!

Nightrain

kenseth17 said:
what do you mean by that troy?
Yeah Troy,what do you mean?

Nightrain
 
#54 ·
yes the paint supply store should have the wax and grease remover. Shoot some questions past your painter and get recommendations on the stuff he prefers. It might be cheaper to get your da somewhere other then the paint store. If your painter has a da, maybe he will let you borrow it, they are fairly cheap. Ask him if he want to shoot a sealer, and if you should just da, or wetsand. He will know what works for him. Work out your game plan with him.
 
#55 · (Edited)
Will do ;) .In that quote that I got from him for $400,that was suppose to be me taking the truck to him with the bondo,primer,paint,and clear,and leave it until he calls me and tells me it's finished.Like I said though,he said that he didn't mind me hanging around if I wanted too.I think that I'll do that just to see what's going on and help out all that I can.

What is the best product that you reccomend for dent filler?

Nightrain

I don't know if this will mix in with my last post or not,but if it does,bare with me.These are the product sheets on my 2 current PPG choices.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PPG DZL Primer Surfacer -

1 Form P-127 (8/91)
DZL Primer Surfacers Form P-127 (8/91)
DZL

IDENTITY CODE
Light Gray Primer Surfacer DZL 32
Dark Gray Primer Surfacer DZL 34
Red Primer Surfacer DZL 72

BACKGROUND
PPG's DZL Primer Surfacers are fast drying, easy sanding products specially designed
to provide fast build with a minimum amount of coats, while having excellent adhesion
and color hold out properties. DZL Primer Surfacers can be used over properly
prepared painted surfaces and/or properly treated and primed bare steel, aluminum,
and fiberglass. DZL's are designed to be used under a variety of PPG Automotive
sealers & topcoats.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Preparation:
. Prepare surface by cleaning thoroughly with DX 330 ACRYLI-CLEAN® Wax and
Grease Remover or DX 380 Low VOC Cleaner. Condition the bare metal with
the appropriate PPG metal cleaning and conditioning system.
Note: For optimum adhesion and corrosion protection apply 1 to 2 full
wet coats of DP Epoxy Primer.
Mixing:
. Thin DZL Primer Surfacer 150% by volume with DTL 16 or better lacquer thinner
(1:1½).
. Select the appropriate DTL Lacquer Thinner in the temperature range best
suited for shop conditions. Example:

DZL DTL Thinner
1 part 1½ parts
or to or
1 quart 1½ quarts
2 Form P-127 (8/91)
Application and Dry Times:
. Set air pressure to 30 - 35 lbs at the gun.
. Apply 2 to 3 full wet coats allowing 10 minutes dry time between each coat.
. Allow the final coat of DZL to dry 30 minutes before sanding.
. Dry film build per coat is 1.3 mils.
. Follow the sanding recommendations for desired topcoat system. Can be wet or
dry sanded.
Equipment Cleaning:
Clean up equipment with #DX 590 All Purpose Clean-up Solvent or DTL Lacquer
Thinner.
# Not currently available in Canada.
Cautions:
. DZL Primer Surfacer must be thoroughly agitated prior to reduction. Material
that has been stored for a long period of time has a tendency to settle out. Only
high grade lacquer thinners should be used, we recommend DTL 16 or better.
. DZL Primer Surfacer builds faster than ordinary lacquer primer surfacers.
Applying heavy films may result in poor sandability, more soak in of topcoats and
sand scratch swelling. Excessive films should be avoided. DZL Primer Surfacer
must be sanded prior to sealing or topcoating.

COMPATIBLE SURFACES: DZL Primer Surfacer may be used over:
Properly cleaned and treated steel
Properly cleaned and treated aluminum
Properly cleaned and sanded fiberglass
Properly cleaned and treated galvanized
DX Plastic Body Fillers
DGP 30 POLY PUTTYÔ
DFL Spot Putties
DSX 1900 Bonding Clear
DL 1970 SEALER 70Ô Primer Sealer
DAS DEL-SEAL® Acrylic Sealers
DPE 1538 Black Zinc Chromate Primer
DX 1791/1792 Self Etching Primer
DPX 800 Polypropylene Primer
DP Epoxy Primers
DZ KONDAR® Acrylic Primer Surfacers
3 Form P-127 (8/91)
OEM Acrylic Enamels (must be sanded)
OEM Acrylic Lacquers (must be sanded)
DURACRYL® (DDL) Acrylic Lacquer (a)
DELSTAR® (DAR) Acrylic Enamel
DELSTAR/DELTHANE® ULTRA (DAR/DXR 80) Acrylic Enamel (a)
STARTHANE® (STAR) Polyurethane Enamel (a)
DITZCO® (DQE) Alkyd Enamel
DELTRON® (DAU) Acrylic Urethane (a)
DELTRON (DBU) Universal Basecoat (a)
DURETHANE® (DU) Polyurethane (a)
(a) Must be cured and sanded

INCOMPATIBLE SURFACES: DZ Primer Surfacer may not be used over:
Elastomeric Substrates
DPX 844 Flexible Primer
DPE Synthetic Primer Sealers
DPU 35/DPU 301 DURETHANE Primer/Hardener
KTS 2K Sealers
K 200/201 Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
K 36 PRIMAÔ Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
NCP 250/NCX 255 NCT® Primer Surfacer
DP 70 Epoxy Primer
PREET 33® Primer Surfacer
DX 54 ROADGUARD® Chip Resistant Coating
#DPW 1811 Black Chassis Primer
#DPW 1821 Low VOC Primer Surfacer
#DPW 1832 Low VOC Metal Primer
#DPW 1844 Low VOC Plastic Primer
# Not currently available in Canada.

COMPATIBLE TOPCOATS: DZL Primer Surfacers may be topcoated with:
DSX 1900 Bonding Clear
DL 1970 SEALER 70 Primer Sealer
DAS DEL-SEAL Acrylic Sealers
DFL Spot Putties
DPE Synthetic Primer Sealers
DZ KONDAR Acrylic Primer Surfacers
DPU 35/301 DURETHANE Primer/Hardener
DURACRYL (DDL) Acrylic Lacquer
DELSTAR (DAR) Acrylic Enamel
4 Form P-127 (8/91)
DELSTAR/DELTHANE ULTRA (DAR/DXR 80) Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel
STARTHANE (STAR) Polyurethane Enamel
DITZCO (DQE) Alkyd Enamel
DITZCO (DQE/DXE 123) Polyurethane Alkyd Enamel

INCOMPATIBLE TOPCOATS: DZL Primer Surfacers may not be topcoated with:
DX Plastic Body Fillers
DPU 35/301 DURETHANE Primer/Hardener
DP Epoxy Primers
KTS 2K Sealers
DP 70 Epoxy Primer
DPE 1538 Black Zinc Chromate Primer
DX 54 ROADGUARD® Chip Resistant Coating
DPX 844 Flexible Primer
DPX 800 Polypropylene Primer
DX 1791/1792 Self Etching Primer
K 200/201 Primer Surfacer
K 36/K 201 PRIMA Primer Surfacer
#DPW 1811 Black Chassis Primer
#DPW 1821 Low VOC Primer Surfacer
#DPW 1832 Low VOC Metal Primer
#DPW 1844 Low VOC Plastic Primer
DURETHANE (DU) Polyurethane
NCP 250/NCX 255 NCT Primer Surfacer
#STARBASE (DSB) Acrylic Enamel Basecoat
DELTRON (DAU) Acrylic Urethane
DELTRON 2000 (DBC) Basecoat
CONCEPT (DCC) Acrylic Urethane
#DELTA 2800 (DHS) Low VOC Polyurethane
#DELTA 3500 (DUHS) Low VOC Polyurethane
UCV Vinyl Spray Color
# Not currently available in Canada.

TEST PROPERTIES:
Color: DZL 32 Lt Gray DZL 34 Dk Gray DZL 72 Red
Appl. Visc #2 Zahn (a) 18 sec 18 sec 18 sec
Flash Point PMCC 27°F 27°F 27°F
VOC (Unreduced) 4.8 lbs/US Gal 4.8 lbs/US Gal 5.9 lbs/US Gal
VOC (a) 5.9 lbs/US Gal 5.9 lbs/US Gal 5.9 lbs/US Gal
Weight Solids 49.08% 48.37% 49.35%
Volume Solids 30.17% 29.69% 30.16%
5 Form P-127 (8/91)
Sq Ft Coverage/US Gal 484 @ 1 mil 476 @ 1 mil 483 @ 1 mil
(100% transfer efficiency)
Dry Time Between Coats
@ 70°F/21°C 10 minutes 10 minutes 10 minutes
Dry Time to Sand 30 minutes 30 minutes 30 minutes
@ 70°F/21°C
Weight Per Gallon 9.4 lbs/US Gal 9.35 lbs/US Gal 9.47 lbs/US Gal
Fill Properties Excellent Excellent Excellent
Color Hold Out Very Good Very Good Very Good
Humidity Resistance Excellent Excellent Excellent
Settling Resistance Very Good Very Good Very Good
Sandability Very Good Very Good Very Good
(a) Ready to Spray (1 part DZL to 1 1/2 parts DTL 876)

Sorry that those are a little scrambled,but I wanted to let you guys know what I am going to use.I bolded certain text in the 2 documents.That's to show that the 2 products that I chose will work together.

kenseth 17 -

Is this a good DA Sander?

Nightrain

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PPG DAR Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel -

1 Form P-137 (8/91)
DELSTAR®/DELTHANE® Form P-137 (8/91)
Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel
DAR

IDENTITY CODE
Acrylic Enamel Color DAR
DELTHANE ULTRA DXR 80
Urethane Hardener (For spot repair) DU 4
Urethane Hardener (For spot repair) DXR 79
Acrylic Enamel Reducers DTR 600 (50 - 65°F) (10 - 18°C)
DTR 601 (60 - 75°F) (16 - 24°C)
DTR 602 (70 - 85°F) (21 - 29°C)
DTR 604 (85°F & Above) (29°C & Above)
DTR 607 Retarder - 25% Blend

BACKGROUND
The DELSTAR/DELTHANE (DAR/DXR 80) Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel system is
designed for panel repair and overall refinishing or as a fleet finish. It resists the elements
and retains excellent color and gloss. DELSTAR/DELTHANE provides you the same
texture, color, and depth of gloss as an original new car finish.
An additional Hardener, DU 4 or DXR 79 Hardener is available and recommended for spot
repair. DU 4 Hardener or DXR 79 Hardener helps minimize overspray and gives a faster
dry.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Preparation:
• Wash affected areas that will be topcoated with soap and water, then reclean with DX
330 ACRYLI-CLEAN® Wax and Grease Remover or DX 380 Low VOC Cleaner.
• Treat all bare metal surfaces with the appropriate PPG metal treatment systems.
• Prime bare metal areas, with DP Epoxy Primers.
• Fill minor imperfections with one of the following recommended Primer Surfacers:
2 Form P-137 (8/91)
KONDAR® Acrylic Primer Surfacer
DZL Primer Surfacers
K 200/201 Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
K 36 PRIMAä Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
• Final sand the repair with : Machine/DA 280 grit or finer
Hand sand dry 320 grit or finer
Hand sand wet 400 grit or finer
• Reclean with #DX 220, DX 330, or DX 380 and tack wipe
# Not currently available in Canada.
Note: The use of a primer-sealer will strengthen any paint system. PPG
recommends the following Primer Sealers be used over the repair area:
DP Epoxy Primer reduced as a sealer
DAS DEL-SEAL® Acrylic Sealers
DPE 656, 1202, 1338, Primer Sealers
Mixing:

Reduce DELSTAR (DAR) with the DTR Reducer best suited for shop conditions and add
DELTHANE (DXR 80) Hardener using the following ratio:
DAR Color DTR Reducer DXR 80
8 parts 6 parts 1 part
or to or to or
8 pints 6 pints 1 pint
Note: Pot life of DAR/DXR 80 is 8 hours at 70°F (21°C).
Cautions:
• DELTHANE ULTRA (DXR 80), DU 4 or DXR 79 Hardener will react with atmospheric
moisture. After pouring the quantity needed be sure to immediately wipe off the screw
threads and replace the cap of the hardener container to avoid congealing. We
recommend using the remainder of the hardener within 7 days after opening for best
results.
• Hot spraying is not recommended when hardener is used because the heat stimulates
chemical reactions and causes rapid gelling.
Application and Dry Times:
• Set air pressure for 55 - 60 PSI at the gun when using a siphon feed gun.
• Apply 2 - 3 full wet coats. Film build per coat is 1.2 mils.
• Allow 15 - 20 minutes dry time between coats.
3 Form P-137 (8/91)
• Allow the final coat to air dry overnight at 70°F (21°C) or force dry 40 minutes at 140°F
(60°C), before putting into service.
Note: During periods of inclement weather, it is advisable to let the paint
dry an additional 24 hours before subjecting the new finish to those elements.

Spot Repair:
• Reduce DELSTAR color in a ratio of eight parts color to six parts reducer and one part
DU 4 Hardener or DXR 79 Hardener. Example:
DU 4 or DXR 79
DAR Color DTR Reducer Hardener
8 parts 6 parts 1 part
or to or to or
8 pints 6 pints 1 pint
• With air pressure at the gun set to 30 - 35 PSI spray two or three medium wet coats to
the repaired area, over-lap each preceding coat, and allow 10 - 15 minutes dry time
between coats @ 70°F (21°C).
Note: A two gun system is recommended when performing a spot repair
with the second gun containing DTR 607. After each coat of color, mist the
overspray edge with the second gun containing the DTR 607. DO NOT over
wet the edge.
• Allow the repair to air dry overnight at 70°F (21°C), or force dry for 30 - 40 minutes at
140°F (60°C).
Note: If there is any evidence of minor dulling around the edges, use a mild
polish to remove it. DO NOT USE COMPOUND or polishes containing
abrasive materials.

Clearcoating:
When a clearcoat is desired to provide additional long term durability, proper color match,
or wet-look appearance, the recommended clears are:
*DAU 75 DELCLEAR® Acrylic Urethane Clear
*DAU 82 DELGLO® Acrylic Urethane Clear
*DCU 8200 CONCEPTä 8200 Medium Solids Air dry Clear
*DCU 2020 CONCEPT 2020 Urethane Clear
*DCU 2001 CONCEPT 2001 High Solids Polyurethane Clear
*Note: When using these clears, the following dry times are required to
avoid lifting:
DAU 75: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
4 Form P-137 (8/91)
DAU 82: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
DCU 8200: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
DCU 2020: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
DCU 2001: The color must dry a minimum of 16 hours at 70°F (21°C) or force dry 40
minutes at 120°F/29°C and cool.

Repair or Recoating:
DELSTAR/DELTHANE ULTRA (DAR/DXR 80) may be recoated with itself after a minimum
of 4 hours air dry @ 70°F (21°C), but preferably overnight. DAR/DXR 80 may also be
recoated following a force dry for 40 minutes @ 140°F (60°C).
Painting of Flexible Parts:
Spot repairing of flexible parts is not recommended. Clean entire part with DX 103 MULTIPREPÔ.
Sand thoroughly with 400 grit paper. If primer is required, use DPX 844 Flexible
Primer thinned 100% (1:1) with DX 103 Thinner, or K 200 or K 36 with K 248 Flexible
Additive.
Mix DELSTAR Color in a ratio of 8 parts DAR Color to 4 parts DTR Reducer to 2 parts DX
369 FLEXATIVEä to 1 part DXR 80 Hardener (8:4:2:1)
DAR Color DTR Reducer DX 369 DXR 80
8 parts 4 parts 2 parts 1 part
or to or to or to or
8 ounces 4 ounces 2 ounces 1 ounce
Additives (DX 77 Fisheye Preventer):
Surface to be painted must be thoroughly cleaned. Silicone additives should never be
used unless positively necessary as flow-out of paints is decreased in direct relation to the
amount used. When absolutely necessary DX 77 Fisheye Preventer can be used in
DELSTAR/DELTHANE Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel systems in a ratio of one or two
capfuls to a quart gun cup of mixed paint.
Equipment Cleaning:
Spray guns, gun caps, pressure pots, etc. should be cleaned thoroughly after each use with
#DX 590 All Purpose Clean-up Solvent, DTR Reducer, or DTL Lacquer thinner. Never
use lacquer thinner to reduce DELSTAR/DELTHANE for spraying.
# Not currently available in Canada.

COMPATIBLE SURFACES: DELSTAR/DELTHANE may be used over:
DL 1970 SEALER 70Ô Primer Sealer
KTS 2K Sealer
5 Form P-137 (8/91)
DZL Primer Surfacer
DZ KONDAR Acrylic Primer Surfacer
K 36 PRIMA Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
NCP 250/NCX 255 NCT® Primer Surfacer
PREETÔ 33 Primer Surfacer
K 200/201 Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
DP Epoxy Primer/DP Catalyst
DPU 35/301 DURETHANE® Primer/Hardener
DPE Zinc Chromate Primer
DX 1791/1792 Self Etching Primer
*DPX 844 Flexible Primer
*DPX 800 Polypropylene Primer
#DPW 1832 Low VOC Metal Primer
#DPW 1821 Low VOC Primer Surfacer
#*DPW 1844 Low VOC Plastic Primer
DPE Primer Sealers
DAS DEL-SEAL Acrylic Sealers
DX 54 ROADGUARD® Chip Resistant Coating
*DX 369 FLEXATIVE must be used in the DELSTAR/DELTHANE color.
# Not currently available in Canada.

INCOMPATIBLE SURFACES: DELSTAR/DELTHANE must not be used over:
DSX 1900 Bonding Clear
DXR 1050 Recoat Sealer
UCV Vinyl Spray Color
TEST PROPERTIES Solids Metallics
Application Viscosity (#2 Zahn) (a) 18 - 22 sec. 18 - 22 sec.
VOC (DAR only) 4.2 #/U.S. Gal 4.5 #/U.S. Gal
VOC (a) 5.1 #/U.S. Gal 5.5 #/U.S. Gal
Weight Solids (DAR only) 53% 50%
Volume Solids (a) 28% 25%
Sq Ft Coverage/US Gal
(100% transfer efficiency) (a) 449 sq ft @ 1 mil 400 sq ft @ 1 mil
Gloss (20 Degree) 85 80
Dust Free Time 40 min 50 min.
Tack Free Time 3 hours 3 hours
Tape Free Time 6 hours 6 hours
Recoat Time 4 - 6 hrs 4 - 6 hrs
Pencil Hardness B B
(a) Ready to Spray (8 parts DAR Color to 6 parts DTR Reducer to 1 part DXR 80)
6 Form P-137 (8/91)

Nightrain
 
#56 ·
The original post was answered a long time ago, Have you noticed that most of the painters have quit posting on this thread?It just keeps going on and on.........

Like trying to see how many posts there will be.
This is not the norm...
And may bring some members down on me , but it just doesn't feel right.

Troy

__________________
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
 
#57 ·
Yeah,so the original question was answered about 30 posts ago...Big deal.I'm just trying to get some good information on this topic since I don't know a thing about it.Isn't that what HR.com is here for??

Yeah,so we've stayed in the same post.It's better than flooding the forum with these questions.Although,I guess that we could just us PM's...

Nightrain
 
#60 ·
I will say one more thing here. I think the dzl primer is lacquer based. If this is true you don't want to choose that primer. When you have money stuck into buying the polyurethane and a clear, the primer is one area you don't want to go cheap on. What I would do is any metal you have put on some of the dp epoxy. If you need fill, like on your bodywork areas, pick a urethane primer. Dp primer can be used as a sealer right before painting your color and i believe the k200 primer also. There are a lot of bodyfillers that are good. Get that from the paint store though, not stuff like the bondo in the walmart stores that have been sitting on the shelf for a while. The reason I was so willing to answer your questions is because I was in your position before, wanting to know how to do all the stuff, just wish the trade was better to me. I believe you will be more happy doing it yourself then taking it down to maaco who normally do a crappy job prepping and use who knows what kind of paint. I've heard too many people say how there paint was falling off and how they were not happy. Plus you will have the pride of doing it yourself. Filling small dents isn't that hard. Just need to get use to adding the right amount of hardener in your filler and the feel of when things are straight. Go down to the bookstore or look on ebay. There are lots of books on the subject to guide you.
 
#62 ·
Man,I tell you.I've got too much time on my hands.I was sitting around here a few minutes ago and thinking about painting this truck myself.It makes perfect sense to me.I've got everything that I need to know knowledge wise in this thread.Plus,I can take it slow and learn things as I go along.I did some calculating also,and going by what I found for supplies,(i.e. DA Sander,Spray Gun,Sandpaper,etc.),it comes out cheaper than $400.I just don't have the proper breathing equipment or a paint room.How can a make-shift paint room be made long enough to paint this truck to keep most of the dust and dirt out of the paint?I can't paint my garage due to the fumes.I don't have a shop or anything.I was thinking that outside would be best,but I don't know how to go about preparing a paint room.Any ideas??

I don't have any experience what-so-ever,but I think that I could learn quickly as I go along,especially since the truck's body is in good condition.Know what I mean?Plus,if I have at least decent equipment,I could have the truck finished in less than a week,from start to finish.But I don't know...I would feel good about knowing that I did it,whether it turned out good or not.If i messed it up though,I just wasted a $220 gallon of paint,plus other expenses.I don't know...What do you suggest?

Nightrain
 
#63 · (Edited)
Do a search on this forum. I have seen it covered before. And if they have back issues that go back this far, check out Car Craft April 2001, it has an article that will be of interest to you. Maybe you should start a new thread with a question like that something like Can I paint it myself, that way this thread won't go on and on like troy said.
 
#65 · (Edited)
Maaco!!

My 76 Skylark had 2 owners after my cousin painted it in May 2002. (he was the previous owner). I bought it from a guy that he sold it to.

These guys never took care of it, hit the doors everywere, threw stuff on it and the car looks the same.

My cousin prepped it him self, he sanded it, primered it with can spraypaint first, then sanded it again, then primered it again with a spraygun (primer $30 gallon). He took like a week to do that. He left the body straight.

They charged him $230.00 at guess were?????Maaco. The car looks the same. Except for the little dents or whatever.



And the car hasn't ever been polished. These are pics of when i washed it. It might look much nicer with a good polish wouldn't it???

I forgot, if it'll save you $$$ and be a good experience, go for it, you will feel better about it.
Good luck with your project.
Let us know if you get any pics.
 
#66 ·
Well I didn't think it's gone on too long. Painting is the only part of automotive work I've yet to get into and I've seriously been thinking of trying it. I have a "practice car"or two that need a repaint and if they don't come out that great they sure won't look any worse. If they work out OK, I'll set my sights on my Mustang and see if I can do a "good" job on it.
No questions right now. The few that I've been wondering about have already been quite well answered in this thread. I appreciate it guys.
 
#67 ·
Practice

I just painted the frame for a 54 5 window chevy that im rodding (in my driveway, wife was not to happy) 3 coats of dupont nason epoxy primer 2 coats of zero rust (prefer the por 15) and 3 coats of single stage dupont omni acrylic urethane, I have 2 guns an expensive devbliss and a home depot el cheapo deluxe,
I used the the home depot gun on the whole job as its the frame and it worked almost as good as my devbliss or however you spell it. but I had to set it up right to get the best results,
Ive always painted my own stuff for 2 reasons, Im cheap and more importantly I want to learn and say I did it myself, as mentioned in here earlier its 99.9999999999999% prep work, lousy prep, lousy paint job.......once you price paint you will realize that all the discount places are either buying paint by the tanker truck or using crap paint, my guess would be the latter......good luck
 

Attachments

#68 ·
Ohh my God, this thread is back. :eek: Glad to hear you had some success painting. The more you paint the more natural everything becomes. You still have a lot to battle painting at home (dust, bugs, moisture in air lines, overspray and lighting, legality ect) and no matter how long you have been painting you will still mess up once in a great while, but when you know you have done all the work, and the prep usually is a lot of work, you have the pride to say I did it. Unfortunately paint isn't cheap. Omni is ppg's budget line, not dupont. Not a big deal though. Did you use the ppg? Wonder if nightrain ever did try painting.
 
#70 ·
"3 coats of dupont nason epoxy primer 2 coats of zero rust (prefer the por 15) and 3 coats of single stage dupont omni acrylic urethane, "

Why on earth would you use Zero Rust or Por 15 over the epoxy?

Doesn't anybody read the instructions anymore?

The whole point of these two products is to provide protection to a surface that is not pristine and may still contian rust.

They do not offer anymore protection than a good coat of epoxy primer.
 
#71 ·
ianoble said:
So what does someone do if they do not have the means to paint the car themselves but they do not want a cheapy job done from MAACO?

Should I look into a local shop that might charge more, but will do a much better job?

Well, like what's been said, it's mostly prep.
So a person could take as much off a car as possible, clean and sand
everything thourghly do as much prep as possible then take it to
Msaaco or other "cheapie" and have them spray it.
You can even get them to put a clear urethane on it,
then sand and buff it later yourself.
I have seen some pretty good looking jobs from them, but what prep lies
under the surface may not show up for a couple of years, so do
the important part yourself. They have the paint booth and equipment
to do a good job. Their quality of finish varies because of the different
experience level people they have. Go to more than one place and ask
to see their work, when you find one that looks better ask who painted
it and try to make sure he does yours.
For the money they can be a great value.
 
#72 ·
I agree take as much trim off as you can to save you money. If you can find a shop willing to work with you, you could do bodywork and sanding and have them spray a few coats of quality primer over the bodywork and whatever needs it on the car, then you could do the sanding and blocking and getting ready for paint. This may be hard to find though, most bodyshops don't do completes in the first place, and finding one to paint over someone elses work is going to be even harder. Then have them shoot the paint. Prep is the majority of the work with the most hours. People seem to think it can all be done in a day, which is not the case if taking off trim, prepping, spraying, and wetsanding and buffing out afterwards. Not having the tools and having to do everything by hand is going to be a lot of work though. Or maybe you can look for someone doing work on the side to hopefully save some money. Ask them if they have any references and check them, and see if you can see something they worked on to check out the quality of the work. Another option is to check out your local tech school. Many of these only require you pay for the materials. May be hard to get your car in though. If all these fail, well then there is maaco and other quicky production shops. If you do the sanding and remove trim and moldings your results may be better then if you didn't.
 
#74 ·
Another option would be to look in your local continuing education booklets. Some places run night classes affordably that will give you access to the schools tools and equiptment, allthough you will be sharing them with others, and the instructor can help answer questions. Back when I went I took the full course, but they also had a night class that was less involved.
 
#75 ·
In my opinion, the name "Maaco" has nothing to do with the quality of the work you get done. It all depends on the skill of the workers and how much the owner and manager really care about quality and customer satisfaction.

Up here in Red Deer, our Maaco was rated the best bodyshop in all of western Canada. I took in a rusty, heavily beaten up T/A with my plastic ground effects cracked and broken and after $2,000, drove away with a beautiful car that looked good enough for any showroom. These guys didn't even miss a detail, they even sprayed the t-top rails a nice shiny black. They even followed up with a free buff job a week later to make it look like perfection. There is no orange peel in the clear coat, and after 3 years the paint still looks as good as when I just got it, no fading whatsoever. Just a couple of chips from careless people in the parking lot.

My advice would be to find out what people in your area think of your local Maaco before jumping to conclusions.
 
#76 ·
Mad... You are right, but a $2000 job is unusual for MAACO. I have worked with several people that had worked at MAACO. The problem with them is that most of them have gotten the "Good Enough" mentality from working there. When the majority of the work that comes in there is the "$300 blow it on, blow it out" stuff, they get complacent. The bad habits are hard to loose. When they get something that is different, it is hard for them to see the difference. Since they get paid the same for doing crappy work, why would they do better.
 
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