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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-22-2004 11:54 AM
Thom Laybourne
Fine cutter

OK. I have a very very fine cutting wheel. I should be able to temporally remove the upper with out any distortion. It feels like this is the original factory pan and they might have spot welded the center piece. I will keep the door closed while I remove it. Then replace allowing clearance for the new pan. Thanks.

hr41pearl
01-22-2004 11:30 AM
troy-curt Thom;

I would bend the top layer up as far as I could, this should let you get to the middle layer. I would not remove it if I didn't have to, as this is part of the support for the door post. If you have to remove it , then weld it back in, or fab a new one, it needs to be there. HTH

Good Luck

Troy

__________________
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
01-22-2004 10:35 AM
Thom Laybourne
Almost

I have posted two photo's in my gallery of the pan I am repairing. In the right front corner where the pan is sandwiched I am having a problem getting it out. Question. Would it be ok to remove the top part of the sandwich? It looks like the body sits on the frame via the bottom part of the sandwich and removing the top should cause no problem. Does that seem correct? I may have to send you a case when I get this done. I now know why they wanted $300 a side to do this.

hr41pearl
01-21-2004 10:22 AM
troy-curt I never use the stuff except on customers cars when required.

The putty knife and wire wheel method is the only way I know of to remove it.

Be sure and wear a respirator and safety glasses.

Troy

__________________
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
01-21-2004 09:51 AM
Thom Laybourne
Undercoating

Well, I have about .75 of the old panel out. Need to work on that corner a little more to get the middle of the sandwich out. I cleaned up all around it and then started using a slitting wheel. Slow, but no undue stress to the area. This car came wet area and has under coating. I am using a putty knife for the heavy stuff, but are there any chemicals that clean that stuff from the metal? Never worked with under coatings. I will need to replace it when I am done so any idea where to get that stuff?

Thanks for all the help and letting me bend your ear.

hr41pearl
01-20-2004 03:46 PM
troy-curt Just grind the welds down and cut them loose, pry up the top layer, whittle, rip, drill, cut, chisel, and sometimes a torch, what ever works best at the time, put the new one back in between and weld solid. BE SURE AND WEAR SAFETY GLASSES>

The holes you drill out is where you spot weld in the new panel.

Troy

__________________
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
01-20-2004 01:10 PM
Thom Laybourne
Corner

I managed to get started last night on removing the floor pan. Drilled out a few spot welds. Now, I am going to have to weld the holes. I changed over to a cutting wheel and that made things a little easier. On the 52 sedan that I am working on the front right corner (passenger side) seems to be tucked inside of the mounting bracket. Kind of a sandwich affair. This is the only area that seems to be welded all around the corner bracket. Shouldn't this just be spot welded also? Maybe I can post a picture of it tomorrow. Any ideas on these corner mounting?

hr41pearl
01-19-2004 10:18 AM
Thom Laybourne
Thanks

OK, thanks for the advice. I will start this evening. I will take the die grinder and open up the rot hole for easier access to the underside then air-drill the spot welds. Thanks again.

hr41pearl
01-19-2004 10:05 AM
troy-curt Drill out the spot welds first with a 1/4 drill bit, then use the chisel, if you don't the chisel will rip things up pretty bad, there should be body putty on the joints, not lead.

Troy
__________________
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
01-19-2004 09:46 AM
Thom Laybourne
Thanks

Just got back from a skiing trip and found your post. Thanks for the ideas. Think I will get out the old blow torch and try heating the lead, if any. My chisel is very flat and wide. I broke one of the welds off just before I left. Seemed easy enough. But you are right, I should get the lead out first. No Pun.

hr41pearl
01-15-2004 08:31 AM
Chapo1 First I would drill out all the spot welds, than find out if it is leaded or glued, I would try a stiff putty knife if glued and with a cold chisel, be careful near the panels you donít to remove, donít try to remove the spot welds with the chisel. You might try a heat gun or low heat torch in a well-ventilated area, to remove the lead, if it has lead on it.
01-14-2004 04:16 PM
Thom Laybourne
Floor Pans

My 52 - 210 has holes in the front floor pan. I have purchased two new units. One for the driver side and one for the passenger side. It looks like the floor pan comes apart in about 6 pieces. Are they just spot welded in the overlay areas and then leaded to close the gaps? If so, can I use a cold chisel to open and remove each section? Any ideas? If I can get each front pan out, I hope to have a shop repair them with the panels that I purchased. Thanks for the help.

hr41pearl


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