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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-28-2004 11:36 AM
Beenaway2long Most GFCI outlets can be "master" outlets. Being that, if its the first outlet in the circut, anything "downstream" will be protected as well. Or you can use a GFCI breaker and standard outlets and still have protection.

Don't go cheap! Use 20amp rated outlets, not the 99cent units. Also run 12 gauge wire, and you'll be able to run a 110v mig from anywhere in the shop. Same with HD tools like a worm drive saw, table saws and anything else that has a 15amp or more draw.

Plan for the most extreme. You'll end up using it someday. Wish I had ran water and phone lines when I did the power!! I buried 1 conduit instead of 4. Time to dig this spring !
01-24-2004 08:28 AM
mikeweyman the gfi will give as much power as any other circuit.
In my new garage ALL outlets will be gfi.
a friend of mine ran a cord out to the yard to run an electric weed eater, part of the cord was cracked and in a puddle.needless to say, he stepped in the puddle , now his wife has to explain to his two small children why daddy is gone with the angels...
a gfi is a 10 dollar life insurance policy.
how many times has anyone walked in water in the garage, and thought nothing of did i until last summer....mike
p.s. the kids are still looking for daddy.don't let this be you!!!
01-24-2004 06:55 AM
adtkart A GFCI will also let you know of any of your electric tools need replacing, as they will kick out quickly.
01-24-2004 03:21 AM
Kevin45 A GFCI (ground fault circuit interuptor) can be used in a garage and should be all for the fact that at sometime you will have water on the floor and will plug in a power tool or light. But with lights on seperate circuits you have the option of using all of the lights or just a portion of them. I have twelve incadescents in my garage with the four corner lights being 300w halogens. Sometimes I only need a small amount of light in the garage so the inner banks of lights are on dimmers and I leave the outer banks of lights (halogens off). The safety factor goes up too when lights are switched seperately. If you are out at night working on your ride and you happen to pop a breaker, you still have lights to manuever your way around. Nothing worse than all the lights going out while the tranny and tools are scattered all over the floor and you have to make your way back up to the panel box. But by all means add a GFCI in a garage. A bad shock is not worth it.

01-23-2004 09:53 PM
Re: Some more ideas for the garage

Originally posted by Kevin45
Make sure the lighting is on separate switches and circuits from the outlets. This lets you light up just a portion of the garage and prevents the lights from going out all at once. It also keeps the lights on when you cause a problem with an outlet circuit. Kevin
If the garage is already built and the wiring obviously in place, couldn't you use GFI outlets? Or are they not rated at a high enough amperage for running tools and equipment used in a garage?
01-23-2004 09:40 PM
astroracer Another thing to consider is going with a loft style truss...
These are a little more money but you get an actual usable room. I am up in mine right now as I am typing this, it's 14' wide x 28' long and sits on top of my 26' x 28' attached garage. I built bookcases and storage into all of the knee walls so there is no wasted space. This is office space for my home business but I will do the same thing when I add onto the barn. It will make a great clean room for putting motors together and storing not so often used parts and such.
01-23-2004 04:38 PM
Sandflea427SS Don't forget about the 2 zone hot water pipes in the floor!
01-23-2004 04:18 PM
Some more ideas for the garage

Found from another site:

A good size is 26' deep by 24' wide.

The roof has a 12" pitch which gives you a good storage area in the loft.

I included a 20" x 16" x 10" deep stainless steel sink. This is handy for washing your dirty hands. It also comes in handy gardening. Since the inspector was concerned about gasoline going into the septic system, I had to run that sink to a separate dry well.

I insulated the ceiling with 8" and the walls with 3 5/8". I also have insulated vehicle entry doors. By doing this I'm able to heat the garage with a 5KW electric unit heater with built in blower. This is safe and you turn it on and off as required. I'm also able to cool the garage via a 7,000 BTU air conditioner. Both of the above work very well. Not sure if the field stone building has anything to do with it. For some reason the building interior never goes below 35 degrees unheated.

Make sure your ceiling height is 9'+ to accommodate a twin post lift if you ever decide to add one.

Consider your floor thickness for this as well. You may also want to have the floor steel floated. This makes the floor dust free and makes it easy to clean up spills.

You may also want to place a 2 inch galvanized pipe in the cement at the garage door entry where the door meets the floor. This insures a long term garage door seal.

Make sure you provide many electrical outlets around the perimeter.

At the work bench make sure the outlets are fed by separate circuits.

Make sure the lighting is on separate switches and circuits from the outlets. This lets you light up just a portion of the garage and prevents the lights from going out all at once. It also keeps the lights on when you cause a problem with an outlet circuit.

I also used a Bessemer one piece sliding staircase to access the loft. This lets you carry a 80 LB bag of cement up the stairs without falling through them.
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