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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-18-2007 04:14 PM
horvath Hey, Tony

I'm not going into business, but I'm going to do my '54 Chevy pickup interior and wanted to buy an industrial machine. The best price I could find was on a Tacsew T111-155 (walking foot/needle) ... it was $947.00, including shipping charges, a servo motor (upgrade), and a table with all the accessories.

You can see it Here
02-18-2007 08:27 AM
DanTwoLakes FordSR: Once again you're right on. Wolfman: Thanks for the private message, but you're not set up to receive private messages so you can't get my answer. I'm sorry that everyone else thinks you don't know what you're talking about. BTW, your polyester 92 thread is only slightly stronger and slightly "fatter" than nylon 69. Polyester is used for outdoor sewing because it's more UV resistant than nylon and holds up better in direct sunlight, no other reason.
02-18-2007 06:37 AM
fordSR Well the industry does have standards that you may not be aware of. Thats why when you buy a walking foot machine, Consew, Juki, Phaff, Artisan, whatever, it comes adjusted for 69 thread, the industry standard for automotive upholstery. In fact some of these machines may not even handle that large thread. Any of these will handle the next size larger thread which is 92 and some shops use this size for their general trim work. I would advise users of this forum not to accept everything they read here as fact and do some research on their own to determine what machine, what thread, what needle will suit their application. The needle and thread charts which can be found through a google search will show the correct needle size for 138 thread to be a size 23 and not a size 21. Hope this helps any that are interested.
02-17-2007 07:18 PM

This is a perfect example why the upholstery business does not have any standards or price guides like the Body shops and Mechanics do except in Convertible tops ,some people like thin thread and others like fat machine sews #138 thread wide open with a 21 needle the same needle you use with the # 69 the thinner the thread would leave a void in the material where the fatter thread would fill the hole , correct ? oh yeah the Long arm or class7 machine sews so nice details in door panels , beauty is in the eye of the beholder......I only use polyester thread and the tensile strength is 38 lbs not the 10 lbs that nylon will hold .. hey have you ever seen a convertible top with the binding falling off ... like I said before if I am going to put my Name and spend my time on a job ,I use the best material ,foam ,thread (sundries) I can get my hands on ... that is why I stay busy ,I PICK WHO I WORK FOR ,
have a good one and stay warm,
02-17-2007 06:56 PM
DanTwoLakes Thank you! You are exactly right. Thread only needs to be as strong as the surrounding fabric. There is nothing wrong with using whatever you like to topstitch or sew French seams, though.

Believe it or not, I saw a 1938 Packard convertible that was owned by a guy who owned a shoe factory. He had his seats done with shoe blanks (thick hides used to cut shoe parts out of) It looked O.K., but what a waste to use that crap in that gorgeous car. It was obvious that the upholsterer struggled with it.
02-17-2007 03:35 PM
fordSR The industry standard for auto upholstery is 69 thread size. If you don't believe me just go look at any new car dealer and check out the thread size. I have a 13 year old truck that has the original upholstery and there's not a single seam ripped and it has french seams. The thing to remember here is larger thread takes a larger needle and therefore a larger hole. The larger thread takes a proportionally larger needle because the needle manufactures assume with larger thread you will be sewing thicker and heaver materials and therefore need a stronger needle so the larger thread does not fill the hole. Remember were talking about upholstery material here not shoe leather. I suppose there are some who use shoe leather for upholstery.........again not the industry standard.
02-17-2007 01:34 PM
DanTwoLakes BTW Wolfman.........Did you notice that this thread is almost 3 years old?
02-17-2007 07:58 AM
DanTwoLakes Any decent long arm machine will go for at least $2500 and up. Shawn Krist's website is
02-14-2007 09:08 PM
Hot rod up

Nice work I have respect for you have excellent taste in machines and it shows in your work do you have a web site check mine out
04-20-2004 06:35 PM
TonyZXT Wow, that longarm machine is sweet. I can see how that would be a huge help, and probably make things allot easier. I have to keep my 1st machine fairly cheap though (around $400-$700 shipped) Saving up funding to start my business is proving to be very frustrating. My wife is a full time student, and between the bills and paying her tuition, I wonder if I'll even be able to buy the machine. After finding out that the SBA wont give an upholsterer the time of day, I'm a little dejected. I won't give up, but I don't see any light at the end of the tunnel.
04-15-2004 07:31 PM
bobbyv OK - I found a Consew 226R at the Upholstery shop I work at. It is a backup machine and is just setting in the corner. It is not pretty to look at and the asking price $1000.00. While appearance isn't everything, what do I check for to make sure it is a good machine. I don't want to load it up and take it to a shop before I buy it unless I have to.

04-14-2004 12:12 PM
Hot Rod Up .
04-14-2004 12:11 PM
Hot Rod Up
04-14-2004 12:10 PM
Hot Rod Up
04-13-2004 08:36 PM
Hot Rod Up It's been a while I think $3,500.00

I use it on every car to sew into the doors and so on...........
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