|04-23-2004 08:04 PM|
|ratlover||Emailed sheets hope it helps. here's the clutchball setup for anyone else who cares. I might have screwed up the description of the procedure a little, but check it out if you need to know.|
|04-21-2004 11:58 PM|
I would appreciate you emailing me those installation instructions. my email is firstname.lastname@example.org
I did not build the car a friend did and then it just set in his garage for a year and a half. He put 1450 miles on it. Now I'm putting miles on it and finding the flaws.
|04-21-2004 10:52 PM|
|ratlover||I have never heard of this happening, but that does not mean it is impossible. My guess would be that your clutch fork pivot ball definitely needs to be setup. If the geometry is off then in order to get sufficient clutch disengagement, the fork would kinda be on it the "tips of it's toes" trying to reach far enough and the bearing flange could returnsliding between the spring and fork. I have the identical setup (454,dual friction,lakewood,T-10) have not had that problem yet. I have the installation instructions if you need them can email if required. I measured by calculating the position off of the bellhousing face, based on the measurement they spec. They measure off the flywheel face. With a dial gauge I measured the distance of the face from the back of the engine with the flywheel on the crank. add the thickness of the engine saver plate, and then add the distance from flywheel face to the engine (bellhousing mating surface) to the spec they give you. then you should be able to measure off of the bellhousing flange to the clutch fork ball like in the pic I am attaching.|
|04-20-2004 03:15 PM|
Lakewood Clutch fork clip broke/angle of clutch fork
I have a 502 in my '70 firebird, a lakewood bellhousing, centerforce dual friction clutch, richmond T10 tranny, and a ford 9" rear end with 3.70 limited slip. The lakewood clutch fork is held on by a spring clip to a pivot ball. I was slowly accelerating from a stop sign (my 2 year old was asleep in the back seat) when "clack, clack, clack, clack,......" started comming from the bellhousing area. I pushed in the clutch and it stopped. It only happened when the clutch was engaged. Luckily I was 2 blocks from where I was going. I pulled the whole thing apart (engine tranny removal) knowing it had to be related to the clutch. The only abnormality (besides the worn distributor gear) was that one of the prongs on the spring clip that holds the clutch fork on had broken off. It also apprared that the throw out bearing had been riding half under and half over it's retaning clip. Is it possible that the throw out bearing popped itself off and back on improperly and if so, what can cause that to happen? Improper clutch fork alignment/angle? Too much travel of the throwout bearing when the clutch is disengaged?
I guess I just need to know how to properly align or adjust the clutch fork and amount of throw. There is an adjustable pivit ball on the bellhousing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.