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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-09-2004 09:23 PM
Originally posted by Rhansen
Yeah, the easiest way to turn your car into a slug is with too much cam.

stuff the biggest cam you can find in that baby!
05-09-2004 09:09 PM
Magikal ok, so should I have the block bored out .030 or would more or less be better? And what about the line hone? What numbers are best here? I will go with the decking down to .005 and be sure of the .039 gasket (particular brand for these?).

Can the stock heads be either sent to the shop to be upgraded or will I need new heads completly? next, what cam/lifter setup will work best with this combo?

I just want to have a plan before machining so that all the necessary stuff can be done to it in one trip. I want to do this right....hehe

Thanx guys!!
05-08-2004 01:29 PM
Originally posted by machine shop tom
It is better to undercam a little than to overcam a lot!

Yeah, the easiest way to turn your car into a slug is with too much cam.
05-08-2004 09:37 AM
rifraf Just a suggestion before you get deep into anything,in the chase for streetable power,nothing Ive found quite compares to cubes. People spend big money to get more cubes,small block 400s are readily available and real cheap in comparison,just something to consider. There's no replacement for displacement.
05-08-2004 07:39 AM
machine shop tom I'm not picky between the 350 and the 383, but ditto for everything else adfishe mentions. You also want to make sure your machine shop uses torque plates when your block is bored and honed. You will want to use moly rings, preferably plasma moly--it is more able to resist detonation damage. When you pick your cam, pick it for your vehicle combination (car weight, gear ratio, trans. type., etc.) and be honest with yourself about how you are going to drive it. It is better to undercam a little than to overcam a lot!

If you have more specific questions, feel free to PM or email me.

05-08-2004 04:53 AM
adfishe First I would like to say you can build it into a 383 cu. in. for the same money. A real week-end runner and very durable. But!!!
When the shop gets through boring and line honing they will need to set the deck height. This means they will assemble the four corner rods and pistons to check the deck to top of piston. If it has not been rebuilt before it will be .020 to .025. You should set the deck height at .005 in the hole so when you torque your head and gasket your squish will be around .040 to .045 assuming you are going to use a gasket that is .039 thick. These measurements are very critical to reduce the chance of detonation. As you know detonation will destroy a high performance engine. Then have the heads checked and repaired if necessary and put it together double checking all the clearences. If the shop is going to assemble it for you tell them what you want or take it to a performance shop to have the work done. I hope this helps and good luck.
05-08-2004 03:50 AM
Experienced opinions please

k guys, I am gonna build me a 350 SBC. I am aiming for 400 hp at least and I want this to be a weekend type of driver (shows, cruising, beat the next guy to the stoplight type of motor) I think it will eventually go in a mid 70's truck. I have a block that I am gonna pull out of an old impala. I don't know the casting numbers on it yet but I want to get a head start on the planning here.

I have edelbrock performer carb and performer RPM intake new to put on it so far. My question is this: I am gonna pull the motor and drop it off at the machine shop for cleaning/prep work. I am not sure what it is that I want done exactly (specific numbers and all). I imagine it will need bored but what will be best for my application (I don't believe that the motor has been rebuilt before) and I also want to have it line bored (all the journals, right?) What else should I have done at the machine shop and any advice on the build would be nice.

I am new to this stuff and I have a dream. Now I need some help with the planning please.


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