|07-10-2004 01:42 AM|
|bowtieorbust||Thanx for all your oppinion's guy's, Yea the only thing that i needed to blast is the A-FRAME section, and the upper and lower controlling arms witch arrent real large item's and it problebly would'nt take a long time to do. The rest of the frame is in good shape. It's just that the corralless that i got from the Eastwood co, would,nt hold on the A-FRAME,and was'nt sure what type of sand to use on it.|
|07-07-2004 03:04 PM|
I've got a siphon feed unit from Sears and it works great. I've done the entire body, fenders, hood, frame, etc and never had any warpage.
I use "blackblast" which is a black sand type material packaged in Minnesota and sold here in Wisconsin by Menards (a store just like Home Depot).
I wear a hood, glasses and breathing mask. Dirty work, yes, but then it's fun because it's all part of the building process.
|07-07-2004 02:38 PM|
Charles, he's right to a degree. you got to keep moving and i mean fast. cut the air pressure down will help, but you've gotto move the sand fast enough to propell it to clean. Don't try to clean it clean the first pass, it kind of like painting, remove a little at a time, like putting on a little paint then back track. You'll really be surprized at how quick it'al heat up. I not talking like, burn you heat. I surgguest you get some thing old like a hood to practice on, they're back about worpping because of the reenforcement in them.
|07-07-2004 12:45 PM|
I purchased a cheap little pressure blaster that I saw on Ebay to do little jobs. This system is much better than the syphon system. I use 0/30 sand.
|07-07-2004 10:34 AM|
|Charles F. Smith||
Was talking to a guy that's been around this customizing for quite some time, particullarly painting, and he said that panel warpage is a problem with blasting because of the heat generated but I would imagine that if you kept from holding the gun in the same spot for long you could probably avoid this.
Just a thought,
|07-07-2004 07:48 AM|
I do it for a living, Dad had a small one from sears. It worked well, if you keep the bucket higher than the nozzle. But it takes for ever, cleans a spot about the size of a wooden pencil. We use commercel sand. 20/30 for rough surface's -30 mesh for fine/ thin metals, fender, hood ect. If you decide to do it, it goes everywhere, wea a good hood. You'll need a compressor that puts out a lot of air. You should have a valve to control the air pressure. Start with low pressure and increase it, watching what and where you're goin. Remeber, it'll eat a hole in thin stuff real quick if you stop. Its kindof like painting, I guess (ain't no painter) they say to start before you get on the subject and stop after you've passed it. lol
|07-06-2004 07:59 PM|
|bowtieorbust||Cool# after you are finnished sandblasting your product, is there anything that you use to put on the surface to protect it from flash rust?|
|07-06-2004 07:55 PM|
|milo||I don't sandblast that often so I use #60 kiln dried sand with a respirator.|
|07-06-2004 07:43 PM|
|bowtieorbust||Great! thanx for your reply (milo) Do you use sand or media to work with, and if media, wich do you use and how much air pressure do you use.|
|07-06-2004 07:37 PM|
I've had very good results with them . Brand name SandyJet. .
|07-06-2004 07:20 PM|
I was check'in out one of those little hand held sandblasting job's that have a hose attached to it that goes down into a bucket of sand, plus it hook's to an air hose to do little project's. Could somebody tell me if they really work or are they worth a try. And ovcorse the bucket would hold the sand or media.