|08-16-2004 12:32 AM|
lader bar setup
if you run a ladder bar set up make sure you run a floater with the leaf springs or you will bind the leafs and they will look like a S if you grab trackion and have any real torque in your engine,one must remember that ladder bars were designed for coil springs,but can be used on leafs if set up right .the relocation of the springs is cheep and fairly easy to do I did it on my pro street pickup its a 1976 c10 short box I run 18.5 wide mickeys with 1" clearance inside and out of the wheel well for tire growth art morison ladder bars with compition enginering floaters I will post some suspention pictures on my journal later this week
|08-12-2004 10:22 PM|
|dirtracer21inc||I can build leafs that won't wheel hop. It's all in how it's done. We solved our wheel hop problem. But like Studebk says if you want to play it safe and you have huge horsepower numbers add some of the new traction bars with the rubber in-bar biscuits.|
|08-12-2004 08:00 PM|
Springs alone won't do it .Had a truck spring company re curve and add an extra spring to my supercharged studie ,still got wheel hop so bad it broke an axle.If this is a street machine ,go for swing up traction bars and torsion bars ,wont interfere with suspension ,untill you hop on it !
|08-12-2004 05:02 AM|
You want streetablity? Why not just put some fiberglass leafs on it and be done with it. Weld a bar from inside of the top of the frame rail side to side and move your shocks in. That will give you a little more tire clearance without cutting up the car for a tub system. We still run a leaf spring system on our circle track cars and the old steel leafs can still be made to work with a little monkeying. Take a "NEW" set of steel leafs and slide the second leaf forward until the front of it is in line with the main leaf's eye. Re-drill the centerpin and take the third leaf and fourth leafs and turn them around. Paint all of the leafs with a graphite empregnated paint and clamp up the front of the leaf springs. You can use a square U-bolt shaped clamp for the rear but do not close it shut. This only helps hold the leafs in place. You will be shocked at how much traction this deal will make and still give you a nice ride.
We build this type of leaf spring for the street stock oval track racers all the time. I've got these all over the USA and it's a winner!!! It's cheap and fast. Or just bolt on some fiberglass leafs and be done with it.
|08-04-2004 04:52 PM|
when i build links i use 2" ..375 wall heavy ish mang... but thats for rockcrawlers
billy thats a good tip ..........making the right a tad differant from the left...
|08-04-2004 04:42 PM|
Angle both link pairs up at an angle with a tangent equal to the CG height divided by the wheelbase and you'll have no squat or rise. Angle the right side an extra 5 degrees and the left 5 degrees less and you'll have pretty near equal rear tire loading on launch. Both setups will give you no binding during street driving.
|08-04-2004 04:20 PM|
the street ride will come from th ecoilovers and the spring rate.
the launch and handling will come from the suspension.
only a parellel sp?? 4 link will not bind..
if the links are not they will bind a little...with rod ends it might be noticable.....but with bushing ends you would never know.
if your going for simple just inboard the leafs....
if your ganna hack it all and build a suspension do a 4 link...totally adjustble and will launch better than a ladder.
if your just ganna cruz it and dont care about launches or accelaration...any will work..
just my opinions...
|08-04-2004 12:40 PM|
|goose||i agree about the articulation aspect completely. a good example of this is where you see 4X4's where they are lifted to the sky with huge tires and incorporate ladder bars. and for some strange reason when they drive over a small log, they systems bind or one of the front wheels lifts in the air. i dont know if it has been mentioned or not, (running around here doing dishes and laundry) but a four link lends itself to adjustablity and fine tuning. i hope i didnt repeat anyone. i like the ladder bar system for its simplicity but with the roads and distances around here, im going with the 4-link in my project putt putt.|
|08-04-2004 12:23 PM|
A traditional ladder bar set up really limits your articulation. On a street driven car, this is not a good characteristic. A good four link will allow for all of the articulation that you will ever need plus it will keep a much better pinion angle throught the full suspension travel.
|08-04-2004 11:21 AM|
this is Oddrodders setup that he has in his Rumbler. he should be able to give some insight about the pros and cons about this. i know this car sees a lot of street driving.
|08-04-2004 10:38 AM|
|08-04-2004 09:56 AM|
|Tony@AirRideTech||heck dont get off the train here........ back half that car with a good four link and have the best of both worlds|
|08-04-2004 12:52 AM|
|WICKEDFAB||yup caltracs..........better geometry than ladder bars|
|08-03-2004 07:36 AM|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||Ladders if installed properly are very streetable. Key with them on leaf springs is to allow the front of the bar to move fore and aft but restrict up and down movement.|
|08-03-2004 06:41 AM|
Thanks for the info on the Cal-Tracs. I'm going to look into that.
Here is what I was thinking of getting. What I want to do is narrow the rear by 3" a side and with leaf springs, that's not so easy, plus I'd like some added traction. I'm just not sure how streetable a full ladder rear is.
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