|07-02-2009 10:41 PM|
I ran across this thread a few years ago.
The guy goes into pretty good detail on reproducing all the body panels of his Mustang in carbon fiber.
|07-02-2009 11:26 AM|
|Classicrod||Being in florida, Ive seen the patterntek stuff up close. Awesome stuff. A little pricey but really what do you compare it to.|
|06-28-2009 12:20 PM|
|Apache_Boy||Thank You for finding it Dan.|
|06-27-2009 06:24 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||Here you go: CLICK HERE|
|06-26-2009 06:02 PM|
|Apache_Boy||patterntek.com is the website i believe... they actually dip whatever u have in CF. It looks great and I am actually wanting them to do my car.|
|06-26-2009 10:04 AM|
Actually it will take 2 molds..one for the hood itself and a mold for the underside structure..then the two are mated and bonded..the attachment points are reinforced and in the underside structure to provide points to attach the hinges and hood latch mechanism..
At least that is the way I would go about it..
|06-26-2009 12:44 AM|
I know this is a buried thread but wanted to ask a relevant question.
If you manufacture a carbon fiber hood with bagging process using a mold from the current hood, first how are you supposed to form the bottom side of the hood since the mold only takes care of the upper side and secondly how can you attach hinges and supporting frame to the molded hood?
Also how many layers do you think are needed?
|01-11-2005 09:51 AM|
question from hotrodders member... posted here because it has useful info on wet layp composite work.
100% wet layup. No vacuum bags here. I sanded the tank down with 150 grit, sprayed it black with rustoleum rattle can paint, roughed up the surface just a little bit more, then layed down a thin layer of thin epoxy resin, let the resin set up (until it reached the latter end of its pot life) then just layed the fiber sheet on top, and the epoxy below will act like a glue. You can basically let this fiber dry for up to an hour or more, getting the epoxy "glue" underneath to set up real good. At that point, you can laminate the outer surface with more THIN epoxy resin. On my gas tank, since I had blending patterns of carbon fiber and carbon/kevlar, it took me over five or six laminates to get the surface smooth. I would recommend keeping it to one type of fiber though, and absolutely no more than three laminates on top.
The reason behind using thin epoxy resin is because of what I mentioned with the bubbles on the firewall. I used thick epoxy resin here, and when this stuff is in the pot mixed up it has the consistency of molasses. This is why bubbles get trapped in it so easily. The thin epoxy resin you have to let set up a little bit more in the pot before you apply it so it doesn't get all runny, but it allows bubbles to work their way out while its drying up.
A simple way of manipulating wet epoxy on the surface of the part is to use a clean, unused bondo scraper as sold at auto parts stores, the flexible plastic kind. You can use this like a spatula to manipulate the wet epoxy, and it shouldn't get caught on the fiber underneath.
You should get a feel for how much you can stretch a single piece of fabric before it begins to distort the pattern. I learned it through trial and error. The gas tank and body panels I did are relatively simple patterns, topologically. The firewall in my vette was much more complicated. I used four pieces of fabric to do this, namely, I split the entire project in half (bisected it) down the middle, and on both the left and right sides I first layed up a piece on the top half, making sure to cover the convolutions and indentations in the firewall upper half. Then I used a second piece on both the left and right sides to cover the large flat areas, making sure to keep the pattern clean because this is the most noticable aesthetic part of the firewall. Then, after cleaning up the ragged edges (some of this was done before the bottom pieces of fabric were layed up), using a dremel tool and sanding drums, also a structured tungsten carbide cutting bit (these things are worth the $15, they cut through dried carbon fiber like a hot knife through butter), I cut out excess material and did the final lamination.
In my case, I used thick epoxy resin on the firewall because I wanted as little seepage and running as possible. I think in hindsight this was a mistake, because when I went to polish this surface, tiny air bubbles existed right below the surface. Thin epoxy resin is harder to work with, produces thinner layers of laminate, but overall retains a more appealing look when it's said and done.
Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions.
Other info... Only sand between laminate layers if you've waited more than 2 hours since the last layer, or if you notice "clouding" in the resin (a result of moisture condensing on the surface of the drying epoxy)
Polish with increasing fineties of sandpaper, all the way up to 1500 or even 2000 grit, then polish with 3M rubbing compound, and finish with 3M finishing compound.
Apply UV sealant if you wish, but I prefer the raw epoxy surface. If you scratch it or leave a mark, just polish it again! Besides I'm not sure how well paint / clearcoat will apply to a polished epoxy surface.
I'm going to post this to hotrodders to hopefully avoid answering the same sorts of questions multiple times...
The blonde weasel
|12-17-2004 12:26 PM|
For flat and simple curve parts you can just get a carbon overlay and bond it on. Look at http://www.cstsales.com/CCAccentPanels.htm It's not cheap but a lot less work and will save a lot of "practice parts".
I get my carbon from http://www.carb.com/ , best prices I found. I bought about 12 yards.
I'm doing carbon/wood/carbon interior panels for my Corvette. http://corvetteforum.net/classics/gr...corvette15.htm I'm not nearly as good at it as the guys in our shop but have found it is much easier to get a good finish with vacuum bagging than without, as the wet layups have lots of pin-holes in the corners of the fabric weave. It helps if you put a layer of resin with cavasil mixed in to thicken it into the mold first.
You can also put a top layer of very fine weave fiberglass cloth on, as it will disapear when wetted out. You can do this either in the original laminate or as a second bond if you use a peal ply. If you sand the surface for the second bond you will never get all the white resin dust out of the pinholes, and this in turn helps propogate new pin holes in the next layer.
|12-15-2004 03:29 PM|
|mmartin1872||another good site is rcuniverse.com go to the airplane section of the forum buttons... and scroll down till you find composite fabrication and repair... whole bunch of good info there and most of those people like to save their pennies so they have insight on making ovens, vacuum bagging tools out of old fridges, and different fabrication techniques for making light pieces.. tons of free info there|
|12-15-2004 10:33 AM|
I've never laid any composites, but plan on doing something soon. I have found this project aircraft place that sells a "composites practice kit" which might be good for picking up some technique before ruining your precious carbon fiber:
|11-15-2004 11:20 PM|
sorry this took me so long to post...
I finished uploading some fiber pics to my gallery. these are wet-layup ontop of fiberglass and painted metal. the epoxy resin will bond to just about any gripping surface, such as lightly sanded painted metal (in the case of the gas tank). It takes a ridiculous amount of wet sanding to get the final product to look good, and my process does not account for UV-protection on the pieces (epoxy resin will yellow over time with exposure to UV). Nonetheless, I get many compliments on my bike, which was my "experimental" phase of carbon / composite wet layup study. Overall I'm happy with the outcome, even before polishing the engine bay the results are spectacular. I can't wait to set all my polished aluminum parts against that backdrop when the motor goes in. If you have any questions feel free to email me.
the blonde weasel
i'll just attach one photo for those unfortunate souls still using dialup. high-res versions available in my gallery.
|11-12-2004 10:23 PM|
Re: How can I make carbon fiber
|11-12-2004 09:33 PM|
How can I make carbon fiber
Is there a school one can attend to learn how to make carbon fiber components?
|11-12-2004 05:48 PM|
|lowdown99||select products is where to go if you have a problem like too much money to blow , or cant do a little searching for info on the net. you can purchase th esame exact items at half the cost at shopmaninc.com, as for speaker rings and such , if you cant rout out a set yourself , you probably shoulnt be attempting this kind of stuff anyway, you'll probably end up bonded to your project for life . as for the autoclave and such , unless you are building structural parts and such all this is just appearance stuff which doesnt need the bagging and autoclave.use senseand you will do fine|
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