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Epoxy sealer/seam sealer/paint equip

5K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Ron M 
#1 ·
I just repaired all the body and rust damage in the bed of my 76 Terra. Since this is just the beginning of a long project I would like to cover the bare metal with DP epoxy primer, the final paint will be applied next spring. Some questions:

1. Should I seam seal it before or after the epoxy sealer?

2. My compressor is a 6 hp (11.5 cfm @ 40 psi). What would be a good epoxy primer gun?

3. I use the very common Sharp air regulator/air drier. I'm not sure I'm getting all the moisture out of the system. Whats the best method for drying air?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Blackdog said:
I just repaired all the body and rust damage in the bed of my 76 Terra. Since this is just the beginning of a long project I would like to cover the bare metal with DP epoxy primer, the final paint will be applied next spring. Some questions:

1. Should I seam seal it before or after the epoxy sealer?
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Either way but best way would be shoot the DP and let set over night, no need to sand and apply seam sealer.
bwk
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2. My compressor is a 6 hp (11.5 cfm @ 40 psi). What would be a good epoxy primer gun?
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Any 1.4 gravity feed gun will work but not enough cfm to consider an HVLP.
bwk
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3. I use the very common Sharp air regulator/air drier. I'm not sure I'm getting all the moisture out of the system. Whats the best method for drying air?
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Thats a good system, if your not sure- Motor guard -makes a little filter that screws on the end of your gun and when the desiccant turns white from blue its time to change. This will tell the story
if the filter needs changing same day you got water problems but if it lasts a week or a few days, your not in bad shape.
bwk

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
using the air dryer you currently have, the trick to removing water is that the air be cool when it enters the dryer. usually a 50ft air hose between your compressor and the dryer will give the air a short cooling period for the moisture to condense before it enters. in the summer you may need longer depending on how hard the compressor is working. in addition to that definately put the small filter that barry was talking about on the gun. its just another safeguard.
 
#4 ·
When I use seam sealer, I like to apply a coat of primer, then the seam sealer, them more primer. The seam sealer should have instructions with it.

Troy
 
#5 ·
Re: Re: Epoxy sealer/seam sealer/paint equip

BarryK said:
2. My compressor is a 6 hp (11.5 cfm @ 40 psi). What would be a good epoxy primer gun?
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Any 1.4 gravity feed gun will work but not enough cfm to consider an HVLP.
Not quite true. If you can locate a Sharpe Platinum LV (which is a HVLP), your compressor will work just fine. The Platinum only requires 7.5 CFM.

Sharpe doesn't produce the Platinum anymore. They sold the rights to Snap-On and Snap-On now sells it. They have given the gun a different name (which I don't recall).
 
#6 ·
I just checked out the Sharp Cobalt (HVLP). It requires 13.9 cfm, dang, shoulda bought a bigger compressor (I only have 11.5@40 psi.) ! What should I consider for a standard, non HVLP siphon gun. I would perfer a name brand unit with good parts avalibilty. Thanks
 
#7 ·
Blackdog said:
I just checked out the Sharp Cobalt (HVLP). It requires 13.9 cfm, dang, shoulda bought a bigger compressor (I only have 11.5@40 psi.) ! What should I consider for a standard, non HVLP siphon gun. I would prefer a name brand unit with good parts availability. Thanks
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Before you jump in and buy a high dollar gun, why not go to your paint jobber or jobbers and ask if they have any guns for demo?
Most good size jobbers do and will let you spray something with it, like a scrap fender to see how it works for you.
Not all guns spray the same, some people swear by the Sharp, If I sprayed your fender with one you would take a baseball bat to me! The Iwata 400 is a good gun, but its not my favorite as I like the Sata RP and 2000NR better. A lot of it is how you paint.
I know a lot of painters that hate the Sata and love the Iwata.
Try some out, you will see a difference with each gun depending how you spray.
Get 3-4 guns and go get a wrecked fender from a body shop scrap pile and buy a quart of mismatched paint cheap and spend a day in the garage.
 
#8 ·
as i am the owner of the sata nr2000 and the iwata i can say that i like both guns but i use the iwata strictly for the clear, it just seems to spray the clear a little nicer the sata is strictly color, mostly basecoat. to each his own i guess!!

if your looking for an hvlp that doesn't use alot of air and is name brand try a walcom slim s. uses 6.6cfm. its actually designed to be a primer gun, although it shoots base and clear nice too. not like the sata or iwata but its nice and not killer expensive.
 
#9 ·
mrcleanr6 said:
as i am the owner of the sata nr2000 and the iwata i can say that i like both guns but i use the iwata strictly for the clear, it just seems to spray the clear a little nicer the sata is strictly color, mostly basecoat. to each his own i guess!!

if your looking for an hvlp that doesn't use alot of air and is name brand try a walcom slim s. uses 6.6cfm. its actually designed to be a primer gun, although it shoots base and clear nice too. not like the sata or iwata but its nice and not killer expensive.
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I really wanted to bring up the Geo/Walcom slim but did not think anyone would know what the heck I was talking about.

For the money is the best made gun out there in the $200 range.
BWK
 
#18 ·
If you are a non pro with that compressor (similar to me), how about a good conventional gun? I have seen many a great paint jobs on street rods done with conventional guns over the years. I am not a painter per say, but over the years I have always used conventional. I recently bought an HVLP, but returned to stay with the conventional. It has worked great on the Southern Poly Epoxy (good stuff) and the PPG urethane look great too. I am planning on going with my old conventional as long as I can or need to. Good luck on yur project.
 
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