The subject pretty much says it. I know for a fact that sand blasting is oxidations end for sure, but is there any other method that will treat this problem?
Now THAT is funny. LOLoldred said:what ever Barry is selling I am SURE it is not rust!
i couldn't reiterate that any better. so i just quoted you.I came to this forum with a die hard etch primer only over bare metal montra. With discussion here I have came to the understanding that there is big time room for discussion on the subject and I have much to learn.
I am a HOTRODDER too. I have a chopped and sectioned 48 Chevy truck that I have built with my own two hands. I am also a bodyman by trade and have painted as well regularly for 30 years. I am only selling common sense.Jessie J. said:and all the other 'Pro' salesmen here are selling.
Actually Jessie, many people spend times what their car is worth. That is their choice I do not knock them for it. Now, is the use of POR a good choice for many HOTRODDERS to get their HOTRODS out of the garage and onto the street to have fun. If you had been around reading my posts for very long you would have read that many times. I don't think for a minute you or anyone else shouldn't use it if that is what you choose. I said I we could argee to disagree but that was before you continued to mislead. It works well for YOU,that is all you can say.That said, it does NOT follow that these products or methods are also the very best for HOTRODDERS to employ when working with 'vintage tin'.
It would be a rather interesting experiment to see just how BarryK would proceed and fare with the restoration of one of my Studebaker Daytona's, I wonder just how much he could spend on restoring its 40 year old body, perhaps only around 10 times its finished market value?
So what you are saying with that statment is to do the car RIGHT it would take 10 times as much. Well, you may be correct. But that would be doing it RIGHT. You could however do it with POR and get the car done faster, but it isn't the RIGHT way to do it.It would be a rather interesting experiment to see just how BarryK would proceed and fare with the restoration of one of my Studebaker Daytona's, I wonder just how much he could spend on restoring its 40 year old body, perhaps only around 10 times its finished market value?
But, but, but !!! If you used all the "RIGHT" products, wasn't it supposed to last just forever and forever?willowbilly3 said:My present build doesn't have a panel in it I haven't had to patch and even though I enjoy it, I am getting a little more picky about what I bring home.
Several years ago I restored my 72 Ford pickup. I replace all the floors, fenders, core support ect. None of it was even bad but after I started into it to replace the cab mounts it snowballed. I sandblasted the side seams on the bed, used acid etch and urethane primer. Then used the factory type caulking down the seam. Within 3 years I had holes I could poke my finger through along that seam. Of course the truck lived outside so it got salt air even when it wasn't driven on the salty roads.
*********************************************willowbilly3 said:Hey, sounds great!!! Make sure and take lots of pictures so you can do a tech article when you get done. I usualy try to pick a color of gray that matches the tape when I do it, that way if you decide to do a spoiler or ground effects later on you can just tape them on and no one will notice, or even make them out of duct tape.
Then look in the April 2000 issue of HotRod Magazine for how to put a 500 caddy engine in your cool "vette.