|10-30-2011 07:23 AM|
|deadbodyman||My Canadian friends tell me it is there but hard to find ...try asking Steve P. at ..email@example.com,|
|10-29-2011 07:17 PM|
it's been a while lol, I never found ospho in Montreal so I used KBS and por15. Works pretty well although it's hard to say just yet. I found that using naval jelly to etch the metal is much more effective than their metal ready. But still if anyone knows an online retailer for ospho that ships to Canada please let me know, I wanna try this stuff sometime
|03-24-2011 08:35 AM|
IVE BEEN USING A PRODUCT FOR YEARS WORKS REALLY WELL 5717 A AND 5717 B...ONE CLEANS CAN BE SPRAYED ON AND THE B GALVANIZES ....WORKS GREAT I LIVE IN NEBRASKA IF THAT TELLS YOU ANYTHING. ....ITS A NEVER ENDING FIGHT
|03-12-2011 05:59 PM|
others that would too. Ospho is listed in one of my marine catalogs
and it's piqued my interest....Thanks.
|03-12-2011 02:08 PM|
|olegplanets||The spring is coming, I'll see how my por15 job will look like. I couldn't find ospho in Canada so I'll try KBS. It's supposed to be improved, cheaper, and easier to work with than por.|
|12-14-2010 01:34 PM|
Inducing rust only to apply por. Yeah right.
Thats a good idea
|09-25-2010 06:54 AM|
I've gotten Por15 to work well, but I would not use it again. I know that sounds strange.
I didn't set out to do it, but my resto project has become a product comparison between rust inhibiting paint. Its sitting in an open car port, body on stands above the frame. The frame is covered in Por15 and its top coat. 7 years later, it is still black, so it can work just as advertised. However, the frame was a rough, rusty-orange surface which seems ideal for Por. On smooth metal, ever after their etch, I have seen it run off like water on glass.
That being said, my real negatives about it are:
1. It is very "plasticy", even after setting for a long time. If you really scrape it (as I did moving the frame), it peels off like a big sticker unless the metal is really super rough underneath.
2. Cost. One of my floor pans is done in Por and the other in "Masterseries". I have inadvertently setup a side-by-side comparison and they have been aging for like 5 years now as my resto grinds along endlessly.
The Masterseries is holding up just as good, at a lower cost. It also sticks to the metal easier when painted on. I don't believe you have to etch with master, but its been years so don't quote me. The car's firewall (done in masterseries) faces directly into the rising sun and gets blasted till about noon. It seems completely unaffected (the Por15 topcoat will dull and get hazy after years of sunlight). I havent had a major scratch in the master, but it doesnt appear to be so "plasticy"- still unsure if it would peel like the Por does.
So, in my experience, Por is a good product if properly applied, but MasterSeries is better at a lower price.
|09-24-2010 11:39 AM|
Pour 15 has always worked for me. leaves ateflon coating that you can sand and paint over.
|09-24-2010 06:33 AM|
These rust threads allways seem to take a bad turn so before I get mad and tell some idiot they dont know what they're talking about I'll take a break for a while...Breaks over....
I've used Ospho to restore every car i did in the last 25yrs before that I did them all the other ways described here (for 10 yrs) Theres so many opinions here its hard to draw a fair and balenced conclusion ....SO...If anybody really wants to learn something about using Ospho from a pro just PM me I'll give you the step by step details for great results... I find this works best.....
|09-03-2010 09:23 AM|
All I learn by reading these post is whatever works for one guy, it won't work for the next. About POR's (I'm not a body man or a painter) most body shops around here replace, if possible and only a few sand blast most soda blast.
One soda blast the whole car then theyspray witha filler called RAGE ( They said this will protect the car from rust forever!) they sell big $ cars - my friends that our body experts (my opinion) don't like there work! BUT THEY DO SELL CARS! So i'm still in the dark and I do think that the only way to to keep Mr.Russ Away is to cut him off! Please keep up the great comments!
|08-01-2010 12:06 PM|
i kinda thought that might be the answer
(btw - what i asked is not what i am doing )
|08-01-2010 09:55 AM|
Steven a short answer to your question, as this is a thread not worth much more.
As far as automotive there are three stages of rust, flash, the start of pitting and the scale.
Your theory is right but it is also wrong from stand point that scale hold air and moisture, so sealing from both sides will actually accelerate it, kinda same as a cancer cell that get air when you are cut open, goes on a mad rush to replace itself, kinda sorta anyway.
Flash rust is or can be painters best friend, if using epoxy, DTM 2K, acid etch, polyester will not stop it.
|08-01-2010 09:48 AM|
yes epoxy will seal off the rust . rust is created by electrolysis and fed by moisture and oxygen. the more you remove the better. after blasting and washing with dawn soap the car will get a light orange tint to it. this is surface rust but it is no problem. the more iron in your water the more you will see. what it does do is tell me the metal is clean. simple brush off with red scotchbrite and it's ready.
always follow paint mfg recommendations . if they say don't do it then don't think for a second you have more knowledge than the people who make it.
|08-01-2010 09:43 AM|
However, I wasn't implying that using a phosphoric acid product is not a good way to remove rust.
I use it and do it the way Randy shows in this thread:
Epoxy should be applied to bare metal, not whatever Ospho leaves behind.
|08-01-2010 09:40 AM|
ok - so I've read everything there is on rust removal - including every posts in this thread - and think I understand the pro's and cons...but there is one thing I don't get....
Rust needs a few things to "grow" - i.e. continue the rusting process .. iron + oxygen + water ..
so if i wire brush off the rust surface so i am left with pitted bright metal - with admittedly rust down in the pits - but no holes or very thin metal - but then epoxy both sides therefore creating a barrier to oxygen and water - won't the rust just stop at this point ?
then fill - then epoxy again - so even if the filler absorbs some moisture it is sandwiched between two epoxy layers - am I not good.
(now this is for a daily driver resto - not a show winning car )
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