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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-10-2010 05:46 AM
deadbodyman He sounds like a lucky man.....It's hard to find a good Hoe...The last Hoe I used ,burnd me...
I believe it...if forced too and theres enough current to push it, electricity will always find ground...but it also always takes the path of least resistance, Thats why birds can sit on power lines without being electrocuted...its easier to go through the wire...
11-09-2010 05:48 PM
Old Fool
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I'm kinda glad it was brought up. I learned a little today..its amazes me that I have painted cars for over thirty years and know so little about the paint itself..and how its made.Dam Barry, now I feel like a dumas.but still....i dont think the carbon content of dark paint is the reason for the electric companies mostly using white ,the trucks are still made of steel and have rubber tires. maybee its cheaper to buy white trucks ?????? the way carbon conducts electricity would have nothing to do with why they dont have dark colored trucks...lightining dosent strike dark or metalic colored cars any more frequently than white cars ...matter of fact......a car (of any color) is the safest place to be in a lightening storm.and if you come across a downed power line you stay in or car....LOL , may god strike me down if I'm lying .....I'm standing on wood....just in case....
Don't be fooled thinking those tires will insulate you..

My father (a lineman for 37 years) watched his next door neighbor hit a power line with his back hoe. the line tangled, and in a very short period of time the tires caught on fire from the current passing through them to ground. (It was not raining either)
Poor old Bing watched his hoe burn to the ground.
Burnt
11-08-2010 07:03 AM
deadbodyman I'm kinda glad it was brought up. I learned a little today..its amazes me that I have painted cars for over thirty years and know so little about the paint itself..and how its made.Dam Barry, now I feel like a dumas.but still....i dont think the carbon content of dark paint is the reason for the electric companies mostly using white ,the trucks are still made of steel and have rubber tires. maybee its cheaper to buy white trucks ?????? the way carbon conducts electricity would have nothing to do with why they dont have dark colored trucks...lightining dosent strike dark or metalic colored cars any more frequently than white cars ...matter of fact......a car (of any color) is the safest place to be in a lightening storm.and if you come across a downed power line you stay in or car....LOL , may god strike me down if I'm lying .....I'm standing on wood....just in case....
11-07-2010 10:59 AM
crashtech This thread was started almost SIX years ago, and has been dormant for four and a half, until now.

So it's a little late to give advice about the guy's paint job, I think

Might want to check those dates from now on.
11-07-2010 09:39 AM
groxster1
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisMiddleron
That might be it here the compressor info.


http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...yaircompressor

It says 6.6/5.8 SCFM @ 40/90 psi.

Can you explain how that works? How lower cfm makes the paint gun spray high solvents? I use a cheap gravity feed spray gun. It does a good job though.
it sound like a mosture prob and thats why the clear staying soft, and doing funny things i say re shoot it and clear it two coats of clear, use montana clear or u-pol clear they wont be soft i promise u
03-05-2006 04:33 AM
327amc
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisMiddleron
Then the color changing paint was dusted on because its like a pearl and is 160 a quart.
The thing that makes me think it was the clear was because instead of reducing the clear 8-4-1. I reduced it 8-8-1/2. 8 parts clear 8 parts reducer and 1/2 parts hardener.
all i want to know is where you get a'color changing paint" for $160 a qt?

and why would you not use the correct amount of hardner?
that be your problem.
01-29-2005 09:16 AM
starlite
wrinkles

for whatever it is worth at this late date, I had exactly the same problem with a car I painted several years ago, My problem worked like this....I was Painting a corolla a candy purple, (Urethane) did all bodywork, sanded primed, sealed, put first coat down waited a short while, put second coat, waited put third waited put 2 coats of clear, I normally wait a 72 hours and wet sand, let sit a few days (depends on temp, lets material breath) then put last coat of clear, Yeah, I know, but remember, everyone has their pet ways.....
Anyway, when I came in the next morning half of the car looked like it was 90 years old, wrinkles. I contacted the dupont people 'cause I had never had this problem before, they came to my shop and examined the vehicle,..couldn't come to a conclusion, replaced the material I had used and went away.
I realized a day or so later that I had NOT put hardner in the second pot of clear I had put on in the first coat. The second coat of clear had worked good but the first coat was never going to dry
And, I got the same thing as already mentioned above a week later you could still put a fingernail dent in th e paint.

So, what I am saying is you may have made the same mistake or possibly not used enough catalyst in your paint or clear.

just another point of view
01-05-2005 07:54 AM
MARTINSR You are right, that has all been discussed.
01-05-2005 12:07 AM
sakowskimotors Hello
While I agree with some of what I have heard, has anyone mentioned mixing the paint wrong? I have seen this where the hardener and reducer amounts were switched by mistake by one of my painters before, or if they were not paying attention. Also, if the hardener was bad so just the top surface dried, but the paint had not hardened underneath. The paint finish dies back, you buff it shiny , dies back etc...
01-03-2005 09:21 PM
bullheimer i guess i finally figured out why the guy who painted my cars says never to wax them. i have a similar wrinkled surface on the very back of my rear spoiler and only on the left side. i am glad you have all reached a concensus that a wet sand/buff in a couple days or weeks will fix it. i havent told him about it. it was three weeks after it was painted that i picked it up. it was painted about 3 weeks ago. he said he really laid the clear on thick
12-25-2004 11:34 PM
ChrisMiddleron Ok

Ill post my upcoming paint job up on here experiment and we will see if the same thing happens. Ill be using a 10 cfm compressor.



Thanks,
Chris
12-25-2004 10:45 PM
MARTINSR Chris, you need to read the responses to your posts better. Barry and I both have been telling you exactly what you have just said. ALL of these factors had something to do it. You have layed out a number of the reasons we have said you can end up with trapped solvents.

1. Too little CFM (poorly atomized paint,clear)
2. Wrong reducer temp for shop temp (it flashes off too slow)
3. We didn't mention it, but OVER REDUCING (again, more solvent means more to flash)


The heat on the one side certainly would make a difference, but you also added more clear to the "colder" side right? Sooooooo, you had the colder temp, over reduced, AND you added another coat.
ALL of these things will cause the exact same thing, trapped solvent.
Along with the lack of CFM, you had "all the planets aligned" for failure.

Even though it appears the black paint didn't play as big a role in this as Barry thought, ALL of the same information he said still applys just as we both have told you. And in fact, even though you waited a good long time between coats of the black, it was shot with too little CFM and the shop was too cold just as I said. This created trapped solvents just as he explained black will is more inclined to do.
12-25-2004 06:06 PM
ChrisMiddleron Ahhh im pretty sure I found the reason why my paint wrinkled and now I understand what my dad was trying to say.

We have about 100 gallons of air we can store in our compressor and it catches up really easy.

The paint gun uses 10 cfm and our compressor pumps 6.8 cfm. Even though the paint gun will use allot more air.





With flash time in-between coats and the compressor always caught up really easy. In a minute or 2 it would be filled again.

I get what ya ll are tying to say though.

The main problem I think my paint job wrinkled on one side is because when it was out in the sun my dads car which is always out there and was blocking that side from the suns heat.

My brothers CRX was painted during the summer and we used the same reduction, paint, sealer and everything.. BUT!!! It was summertime.. His car was sitting out in the sun 8 hours a day in Las Vegas heat and all the reducer evaporated easier cause of the heat.

Then after a few weeks of that heat the paint really cured. Then they lightly wetsanded it and polished. It hasn't had problems at all.

What do yall think? As you can see in the pic below it does still have great shine... but maybe it just dident cure good enough and as the reducers began to flash in the clear the texture got rough.



Note the paint was done...... wet-sanded and buffed 1 week after the paint was sprayed with not much time out in the sun.

Im just trying to learn what went wrong....

Do yall think that coulda been it?
12-24-2004 11:08 PM
ChrisMiddleron I know its not the sealer/base/ or color changing paint that caused the wrinkling because the sealer was dusted on very lightly and had 50 mins to dry. The black base was also dusted on in 2 coats. It was then wetsanded and was able to cure for 3 hours cause my folks had to turn the water heater back on. Then the color changing paint was dusted on because its like a pearl and is 160 a quart.

The thing that makes me think it was the clear was because instead of reducing the clear 8-4-1. I reduced it 8-8-1/2. 8 parts clear 8 parts reducer and 1/2 parts hardener. That with a slow reducer I think may have caused problems. THe clear lay-ed down great but just is a little rough now.

The other weird thing is the roughness is on the passenger side and not the drivers side.
I put 1 more coat of clear on the passenger side just to use up the materials and not waste pain.

I think the compressor and me messing around with the paint mixing directions is what went wrong though.

I will be getting new equipment after Christmas anyhow.

like I said the roughness is on only on side of the car the passenger side doors and rear fender. THe small little bumps are noticeable but im sure can be taken down easy with about 6 strokes of 2000 grit. THey are that small.

The only thing thats freaking me out is that I see show cars out here in Vegas that has cut-buff jobs that look rough after a while also.. I dunno ..

This paint game is tricky but ill get it.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90977
Cool harbor fright has a nice low CFM paint gun

Thanks, Chris
12-17-2004 10:18 AM
dawg I hope you waited at least a month to buff it out and apply wax.
if not the clear will do as you mentioned.
this is according to a body man i know.
reason for this is that the clear is soft and degassing.
for about 2 weeks after application
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