|04-14-2009 08:49 AM|
Ive been saving cans...
|04-13-2009 09:34 PM|
|boomer||Well I've run my overhead IR heaters for 1 winter now. It only raised the bill about $100 a month. I keep the T-stat at 60 deg. I'm heating 1760 sq ft with a 12 ft cieling. Better than I expected.|
|07-23-2008 08:39 AM|
|07-22-2008 07:33 PM|
here in canada where I am, walmart sells it exclusively and keeps it only in the tools department (not auto or paint)...
I told a friend in new york about this product and he ordered it direct from the RONSON web site...as i recall, he ordered a 5 pack of aerosal cans for $20 and that was shipping included....
ps: i have been doing mechanical work for 40 + yrs now and have never found a penetrating oil as good as this one and i've pretty much tried them all...pretty amazing stuff...cuts right thru and dissolves rust and corrosion quickly...un-seizes just about anything..
and as a metal preservative, the dried film is very light and unoticeable, not waxy and it stays on forever without evaporation or dissolving...
give it a try steve...will be $3.99 well spent for a can!
|07-22-2008 07:12 PM|
|07-21-2008 10:49 PM|
walmart sells a spray lube made by Ronson's called multi-lube...beyond being the best penetrating oil i've ever used ever, it drys leaving a very light film that moisture cannot penetrate....use that stuff on your saw and other stuff and you will never have a rust problem ever...that is how i protect my bare metal stuff...one shot and you are good to go...
|07-21-2008 07:29 PM|
|SteveU||Another advantage would be the ability to run the one over the tablesaw in the spring when it starts to warm up & all the moist air comes in to keep it from condensing & causing rust. Thinking if I had 2 tubes I could have them angled a bit where they would at least partially cover the area under the lift when I have a car on it and only have to run the one on the side I'm working on.|
|07-21-2008 05:35 PM|
then you would have a back-up unit in case one unit should extinguish or have a breakdown.
especially if you go away for awhile in the wintertime (vacation)...the peace of mind of a back-up would be well worth it...
|07-21-2008 05:24 PM|
My IR heater will be on natural gas. The main line and meter is 10' from the back of my shop.
I have the 125,000 BTU unit installed but I'm thinking of taking it down and putting up 2, 75,000 BTU units in place of the bigger one. Also use 2 t-stats set at different temps.
|07-19-2008 09:55 AM|
I don't know if it would be a good option for a shop in a cold climate, but here in central Texas it is very common to put the HVAC in the attic and use ceiling mounted vents. The big difference here is that we usually don't need much heat.
My house has a horizontal combination natural gas heat/AC unit in the attic. The gas lines are buried up to the house, then enter the wall and run up to the attic. The attic has pull down stairs (required) so you can reach the unit for maintenance. All the attic ducts are insulated flexible tubing.
In a northern climate you would probably need thicker insulation on the attic ducting, and you need a good blower to push the heat down. However, all the HVAC is out of the way, but still easy to reach for maintenance. The attic is well vented, so there is not much potential for CO2 or natural gas leaks to enter occupied space.
|07-19-2008 09:10 AM|
|pmeisel||Used to spend some time with a guy who ran a boat repair shop, mostly paint and fiberglass work, in Northern Ohio. He had IR tube heaters (2, one on each side of shop) and he could keep it comfortable for glass and paint work all winter.|
|07-14-2008 01:43 PM|
|07-13-2008 08:25 PM|
If you want CHEAP hot air, locate a politician.
*...Only intended to be a joke...*
In a while, Chet.
|07-11-2008 11:13 PM|
|boomer||My new shop is 40'x64' with 12' walls. I just installed a 125,000 BTU, 40' radiant tube heater. I'll have to wait for winter to find out how much it'll cost to run. CHEAP, I hope.|
|06-20-2008 03:08 PM|
as for a poly film moisture barrier below the insulation, what really works great are the reinforced plastic shipping tarps that are covering the skids of lumber that stores get....they are really strong and durable....much better than rolled poly film....and best of all, they are free!!....just ask the shipper at rona, home depot, totem or any lumber yard....they toss them out in the trash....
also, a very good way to get a lot of storage space in a small building is to run 4 foot wide pallet racking along one or both walls....then you can have a mezzanine ....deck the upper beams with 3/4" plywood....leaving a headroom height workspace below....
last tip....there are a lot of poor concrete finishers around...try to find a really good one that does large warehouse floors so you get a nice result....the average guys doing home garages usually arent too good....you can find out who the good finishers are by asking the concrete truck drivers....they see the results every day...or go around some construction sites and look at the pours being done...
dont overlook having the finisher trowel in hardener into the surface (comes in bags, applied by throwing on to surface as it is power trowelled)....a minor additional expense but well worth it as the surface will not chip if you drop something heavy on it ....on hammer something on it...
and ask the finisher to give you a polished finish and to spray on a good grade of commercial quality sealant on last....it soaks into the green concrete and then you will never have a problem with oil stains or surface degradation and dusting....
as for grade of concrete, pay a bit more for strong mix....go for the equivalent of 5,000 psi (not sure what the equivalent MPA is, ask the redimix folk)....
and go for a min. 6" average thickness floor....a typical 4" garage slab is too thin...especially if you have a hoist in mind one day....
as for reinforcing, I went with 1/2" rebar on 12 inch centers when I did mine...that was commercial code at the time...
if you are planning a grade beam on perimeter as you mentioned, I would pour the beam and then frame in and roof the structure....then I would pour and finish the floor later so that it is shaded from the sun for a good slow cure without surface crazing....
a good floor is very important in a shop....
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