|01-10-2003 02:24 PM|
|damage1_1||Whilst im not too sure just what paint systems you guys in the states use - in UK we use two pack acrylic for excellent finishes, but beware, it must be used in a well vented area and the user must wear an oxygen mask as the fumes are dangerous. As for primers, it all depends on the surface that you are painting - if its a new panel then you can use any acrylic 2K wet on wet primer, however, if its a repaired panel you will need a high build primer - one that can be sanded prior to top coat. Practise makes perfect. Good luck.|
|01-07-2003 08:42 AM|
if u are looking for more paint info its always a good idea to hit the nearest magazine rack. seems about everymonth a diff magazine has articles about painting. a apint job is only as good as its prep work. if u are doin a showcar i would suggest stripping it down and doin it right. but if u are judt doin a daily driver and the old paint looks ok then scuff and paint.
|01-07-2003 07:06 AM|
For pirmer, I like the polyester based sandable stuff. Uses liquid hardner just loike Bondo, builds great, goes on smooth and can be block sanded to a grat base for color. I would avoid the rattle can primers. Many are enamel based and don't sand well, some are HOT lacquer based and burn enamel. Duplicolor is an exception, very good spot primer. Just better to squirt it on w/ a spray gun for a quality job on panel painting.
HK mentioned hardner. I save the drippings from my harnder cans and use it in all my enamel paints. Great for getting Testors model paint to harden on models!
|01-06-2003 09:29 PM|
Also if you intend to strip, forget the aircraft snot, go to por-15's site and use their stripper. I like it much better, its cheaper works better and goes farther.
|01-06-2003 09:23 PM|
Mule, you got a base coat/ clear (2stage) paint. when spraying this the base or color coat WILL NOT be glossy. The paint doesn't absolutly need hardner, but its best to use it. depending on your application areas tempreture is what hardner type you use. Faster drying hardner for colder tempretures. Use a centari hardner made for the preticular type of paint you have. Don't paint under tempretures 65 degrees. Where safety equip like a resperator. If you ask anymore questions that I didn't get to its not because I didn't want to its because I diidn't remember the question. I'm lucky I got this far. If it sounds dislexic, your a genious, if it doesn't, have a taste of my world
Enamel over enamel is ok if its not to thick. Scuff and prime then paint if the condition of the body is good and the paint isn't a half inch thick (I've seen it, the doorjams were so small it was hard to see through) Mate paint type with reducers. Enamel for enamel etc.
[ January 06, 2003: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]</p>
|01-06-2003 08:45 PM|
|Mule||Thanks guys, that was some quick response. The can says Base Coat. So what do I have? Got a good deal on it. Some kind of liquidation place. $25 gallon for paint. $45 for a gallon of urethane clear coat, so I can afford to practice a little while and screw it up!! HalloweenKing you said it's ok to put enamel over laquer! Enamel over enamel OK? Since I don't know what's on the car the worst case senerio would be that it has laquer and I'm going back with enamel. (Phew to many laquer,enamel, laquer, sand don't do this, do that. I think I'll eat a worm!!!) Any special type of reducer or will plain laquer thinner be OK? there I go again with the laquer crap!|
|01-06-2003 08:22 PM|
|mitmaks||i thought about putting some store primer too on my bel air but NO, DONT do it unless ure practicing, most of that stuff is not compatible with good paint, like i said unless ure practicing but if ure trying to restore it u have to use good stuff such as ppg or dupont and id strip it down to bare metal, thats what i am gonna do anyways to my bel air, factory lacqueor is bad and is not compatible with todays paint and will lift and peel and do all kinds of bad stuff, but u can risk it using sealer on top of it before topcoat(ur paint) i wouldnt advise so and best stuff to use is Aircraft stripper, make sure u rinse it very good after ure done or it will damage ur paint too. good luck man on ur chevy, more questions ask, well help.|
|01-06-2003 08:19 PM|
Is the centari paint you have single stage (direct gloss) or 2 stage (base/clear) I'm not to highly familiar with DuPont, they do have both types in the centari line I beleive. If its a single stage you will be able to see all of your mistakes better to its direct gloss formula. If you can perfect painting with it, base/clear will be a cinch.
When painting a car it is very importanmt to know what the paint is on the car(laquer, enamel, urethane etc.), if you don't, stripping completely is safest. You absolutly cannot apply laquer over enamel, but vise versa is alright (enamel over laquer)
Look in the HR.com Knowledge Base exsterior section for painting tips as well as other body tips. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
|01-06-2003 07:59 PM|
New to restoration, Need help on paint!!!!
I've been restoring a 56 Chevy 2Dr Ht.
have taken the body off. Just about through with the frame stuff. Would like to try my hand at painting. Thought I'd start with the firewall to learn how. That way if I screw it up strip it back down and keep practicing. Jack of all trades, master of NONE. I've bought DuPont Centari, Acrylic Enamel. Read lots of forums but never joined untill tonight. Does the store bought primer work OK? Also when I bought the car it had a garage paint job. Don't know what kind of paint is on it. Is it best to strip it all the way down to bare metal? Can I just scuff it up and paint right over it? Do I need to shoot primer on top of the existing paint? I know lots of questions but I bet you've all been there at one time or another. Any input appreciated.