|03-23-2011 12:08 AM|
|GMMAN||Thanks for the useful information! Will be spraying my 81 malibu station with your advice. CHEERS|
|03-22-2011 11:55 PM|
Im sure he's painted...The ?tion is,HOW MANY TIMES? Ya you rite jst let it go...i I j let t go! NEXT!
|02-25-2011 07:22 PM|
|Thumpin455||Tricked again by a noob! ARGH!|
|02-25-2011 10:30 AM|
|327NUT||The orignal post is 6 yrs. old guy's....probably has it painted by now.|
|02-25-2011 09:46 AM|
After using rattle cans to keep my GTO from rusting more for ten years, it was a HUGE pain to get all the cheap paint off. The only color that lasted any time was yellow, black went to crap, started flaking off, and got chalky after a couple months. Blue metallic looked ok for about 8 months. I will never do that again. That stuff weathers very fast and looks worse than what you have now in no time.
You can get a gallon of Nason tractor/implement enamel for $100, shoot it with a cheap HVLP and get a decent finish that will last a while. It also comes off much easier when you want to do a better job. I painted my street strip car with single stage implement enamel, its the blue one in my avatar. The trick to getting a good shine with that stuff is to thin it 1.5:1 or 2:1 and lay it down in thin coats. You will be happier in the long run than with rattle cans.
|02-23-2011 01:57 PM|
Find an Astro paint gun; its a very reasonable copy of a Sata/Iwata (very high end pro guns).
Go to Napa and buy a gallon of black industrial implement paint and a half gallon of epoxy primer.
If you want a GM number; 8555 is for gloss black.
Fix the dings and dents.
Reduce the epoxy per instructions on the sheet and use it as a sealer (to prevent a mottled appearence and seal the bondo)
Spray your paint and enjoy. Now, you can buy a disposable paint mask from Napa as well (NOT a dust mask) Id still recommend painting OUT DOORS early in the morning after the dew burns off
|02-23-2011 01:32 PM|
Been there, done that, had to strip the entire front end of MULTIPLE cars that a coworker didnt prep correctly and get them back into primmer.
Cars would come in with only certian areas chipping / peeling. For example a car w/ a new hood but a repaired bumper would only be chipping on the hood. Or the car with a replaced fender and repaired bumper that tail gated a salt truck for 60 miles only had chips on the fender (and a buffable bumper.
How WELL you prep (and how well the guy who last painted the vehical did so) have more impact on the quality then how much paint you strip off.
|02-23-2011 12:53 PM|
what about your future
keep in mind that if down the road you gear up to a more humane paint job,all the extra effort you put in to spray painting your vehichle compleatly must be removed before you can do any up grade ...so acctually not only wont you be satisfied with a fininish that went to hell but you will be that muc h farther from it being somethig you can be comfortable with.Im speaking from experiance...Ive done the hillbilly hot rod ,flat black...looked sweet for two months.did it agian bout a year later,and so on..It was kinda like when i would nomally need to wash my truck,it was tyme for another round of paint...IT SUCKED!
|02-07-2005 09:06 AM|
Dont Do It (voice of experience here)
I did it and it was really expensive for what I did, Cutting tapes, Many cans of Primer, and Many many cans of Krylon
I was in for $140ish 4 years later it is rust city.
I could have used that money on a good Epoxy Primer, and HVLP gun then thrown another 150-200 I'm guessing and had something good., Plus the Gun.
|01-09-2005 11:37 PM|
|Old School Nut||
yeah I wouldn't rattle can it, but if you do use a spray can with a fan type nozzle. I painted a 600 Bobcat using white engine paint with the fan nozzle and the bulk of the people can not tell the difference, takes practice tho to get the glossy paint looking good, flat black should be easier.
|01-09-2005 10:50 PM|
|beemdubya||fix the dings and bring it to macco they will prep and paint it for 275 i beleive. if not Nason single stage is cheap. prolly less then 100 and if you want it flat them can add flattening agent to it. but dont rattle can it..|
|01-09-2005 09:00 PM|
I'm pretty good with a spray bomb. I tried painting a car with it. I did it on a very hot day and the overspray dried and fell back down in the wet paint. It was an awful mess.
I bought some Omni paint of appx the same color and had it sprayed on for 100 bucks. The paint reacted with the spray bomb.
My advice is for you to sand and tape off the car yourself and pay someone to shoot the car. This is the cheapest decent job you'll get.
|01-09-2005 08:24 PM|
|daimon1054||I agree that the cost will be about the same to buy a cheap gun and paint. I have painted larger stuff with a rattle can, farm stuff and such, and I never could get a really good finish. I always ended up with lines or splotch look. I know some can do it but it does take skill. A cheap gun will be much easier.|
|01-09-2005 08:20 PM|
|mrcleanr6||by the time you buy all those cans of spray paint i would think you could go have some cheap acrylic enamel mixed up and spray the truck with that. atleast its an automotive paint. goto www.smartshoppersinc.com they have kirker acrylic enamel in gallons for like $30.|
|01-09-2005 06:59 PM|
Krylon paint job (be kind)
Ok, heres the idea:
Rough up the current paint, and try and get down to the bulletproof GM primer. Use filler on any dents or holes (all are small).
Then, use "Krylon Rust Tough Flat Black"
to paint the entire truck.
I know that I'll be doing a panel at a time,. but this was done very sucessfully in "Super Street", on a '04 Subaru WRX.
Now, I know this must sound like a horrible idea to you hot rodders, but it is all I can afford, and it looked really nice on that car. I do plan on having a much nicer paint job in the future, but this is what I've got for now.
Any hints, suggestions, donations for a better paint job (lol)?