|01-24-2005 03:39 PM|
|tazzman68||thanks for the input guys, I have made the command decision to r&r the top end, that way if those broken blots give me to much greif, I'll just take the heads into the machine shop to have them bored out.|
|01-24-2005 01:50 PM|
|onebadmerc||I have a 67 F250 that I swapped the old 352 out for a 390. When I was doing this swap I needed to pull the car manifolds off the 390 and put on the 352 truck manifolds. The first thing I done was I ran the 390 until it was good and hot and then sprayed the exhaust manifold bolts with WD40. Well this partly worked, I still broke 4 of the exhaust manifold bolts. What I did, is I used a pair of vise grips on the broken ends of the exhaust bolt. It worked on gettting 3 of them out but the fourth one I had to drill a hole all the way through the bolt. I started with a small bit then kept stepping up in bit sizes until I was just a little bit smaller than the thread size. I then used a easy out and it came right out. I had the motor out of the truck when I did this, you might be able to drill it with the motor in the truck. If not you might have to pull the head to get the broken bolts out. I have not seen a FE yet that doesn't break exhaust manifold bolts when trying to get them out.|
|01-24-2005 01:11 PM|
just take the head of it will be easier to get at and you can see what you are doing if the bolt has broken off flush to the head
|01-24-2005 12:35 PM|
broken bolt help
Long time no post ( for me anyways )
I just picked up a 1967 Ford Ranger, and the 352 has really bad exhaust leaks. went to swap out manifold gaskets, and found 4 manifold blot broken off in the heads. My question is, should I pull the motor to get at the bolts, or should I just yank the topend?
the only difference I can see between the 2 processes is, the top end is gonna cost me a gasket set, but I can sheck out the internals too, which I see as an advantage. Heres a pic of the truck, and I will get some more up in the photo gallery as soon as possible.