|02-10-2005 10:14 PM|
|guba_unus||one option i've used is to take a nail, put it in the hole, then weld it up. Once you've welded it, grind the nail stud off and everything is smooth.|
|02-10-2005 08:54 AM|
You are shrinking whether you know it or not...welding always shrinks...no way around it. Punching little holes (plugs) from some scrap is a great way to go. You can hammer and dolly the plug to make a perfect press fit in the hole. I usually end up punching a plug that is slightly too small and then setting it on a steel surface...hit with a hammer until it is stretched to fit the existing hole for a press fit. Gas weld or tig with no filler rod, stretch the hole area only to get the metal back perfect...a lot of work, but worth the effort...or mig-weld, grind and fill...another method if someone is likely to get the car after you and want to change it back...simply fill the holes...not a great technique but a future owner might appreciate it.
|02-09-2005 09:15 PM|
|baddbob||I agree, no warpage problems using a heavy copper backing. Wear gloves, the copper absorbs a lot of heat.|
|02-09-2005 01:10 PM|
|Bee4Me||I personaly have had no warping issue's. The THICK copper is an excellent heat sink. We are talking about a 1/4" hole.|
|02-09-2005 12:22 PM|
I use the copper method with MIG and have good results. The problem with filler disk or simply welding up is shrinkage. Heat does cause warpage, but the shrinking effect of welding is more of an issue in my experience. If you dont use the filler metal, just take your time and do the small spots untill the hole is full.
If you go with TIG or Oxy/Act welding you can reduce warping/shrinkage. With either of these methods, you can actually heat and hammer out the filler metal so that the shrikage is aliviated. With MIG, the wire is too hard for this. That said, I have never tryed these......would like to some day when I can afford a TIG machine.
|02-09-2005 09:10 AM|
|email@example.com||That works too but heat concentration is higher and warpage is likely. The filler method can be done with zero warpage so for someone like me who is hammer and dolly challenged, it is the best way!! Also, I learned it from Ron Covell video (He TIG'd instead of MIG'd) so comes highly recommended.|
|02-08-2005 10:27 PM|
You can use a copper welding spoon made from some copper tubing type L or K behind the hole and just MIG the hole up, hammer it out and grind/sand smooth. MIG weld won't stick to copper.
Might not be the best way but it work's for me on small holes.
|02-08-2005 05:59 PM|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||Try them now.|
|02-08-2005 05:23 PM|
|Dubz||although a solid reply, neither link worked|
|02-08-2005 04:09 PM|
|email@example.com||Use one of these to clean up and size the holes and one of these to punch some 18ga sheet metal disks to fit snugly in the holes. Place the discs in the holes and gently tap them with a hammer and dolly so they are snug. Use a mig welder to weld the discs in solid. Use very small tack welds and let each weld cool before doing the next tack. Keep this up until the entire circumference of each disc is welded solid. Grind down the welds and if done carefully, there should be no warpage.|
|02-08-2005 03:50 PM|
Filling in trim holes
What is the best way to fill in trim holes.
The holes measure 1/4 inch in either direction and run the length of the body on my 61 Falcon wagon.
I just need to know all the steps into filling the holes leading up to primer.
Any help is much appreciated