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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-14-2005 04:35 PM
oldschoolrods I believe the 360 was available in pickups from 68-75 or 76. My 69 F250 has a 360 that I will get around to warming up one of these days as soon as I get that school thing out of the way
03-14-2005 04:28 PM
pmeisel Take a look at this post on another board:

http://www.clubhotrod.com/t11221.html

They don't give head casting numbers but they do give blocks.

I'd bet it's a 390, by 72 they were building a lot of them. I don't remember the last year for the 360 but I don't remember seeing many....
03-13-2005 11:55 PM
KULTULZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAATR

Ok, finally was able to get a look at the truck. Casting numbers on the heads are D2TEAA, both banks, so I'm assuming that the engine will match the heads. Any idea which engine these heads came on? I can decipher it to read 1972 truck heads, but the AA is beyond me. Any ideas? Thanks guys.
They are either 360 or 390 light truck cylinder heads. They were used on either.
03-13-2005 09:06 PM
cliff tate
fe build up

re cylinder heads you guys forgot to mention the early 1958 heads with machined combustion chambers. they ar rare but very good performing heads. all chambers exactly the same volume, able to run high compression with no detonation. used mainly on early 332 352 solid lifter engines. cliff
03-13-2005 07:45 PM
SAATR Ok, finally was able to get a look at the truck. The body is even straighter than I remember! Surprised the heck out of me, all it really needs is to be cleaned up and repainted, but on to the point. Casting numbers on the heads are D2TEAA, both banks, so I'm assuming that the engine will match the heads. Any idea which engine these heads came on? I can decipher it to read 1972 truck heads, but the AA is beyond me. Any ideas? Thanks guys.
03-07-2005 11:52 PM
KULTULZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Keith

Ford made 3 basic models of heads for the FE Block, as far as general production goes. The early production heads, through 63 were referred to as the low rise heads, and in 63, the medium and hi rise heads came onto the scene. In 64, to the best of my knowledge, the low rise heads went out of production. Leaving only the Medium and hi rise to contend with. Virtually all of the production heads, with the exception of on the 427, and some select dual quad 428's, were of the medium rise variety, and remained for all practical purposes unchanged til the end of production of the FE.
All basic head designs were low risers until end of production. The HI-RISER was introduced in 1963 on the 427 and had to have a modified hood (tear drop) to allow carburetor clearance. These were race only engines unless you knew somebody or built your own over the counter. In 1965, FORD changed the racing head to the MEDIUM RISER and it flowed almost as well as the HIGH RISER. In 1967 FORD had limited production of the TUNNEL PORT heads, race car only. The MEDIUM RISER heads can only be bolted to the 406/427 blocks because of valve size. The CJ head was a compromise for a hot street engine.

The dual bolt pattern exhaust manifold (fourteen or sixteen) (1966/ ) was used on the intermediates and pony cars to allow clearance to get your hands down in the skirts to remove them without raising or removing the engine.
03-07-2005 07:34 PM
Max Keith
FE Block Heads

Ford made 3 basic models of heads for the FE Block, as far as general production goes. The early production heads, through 63 were referred to as the low rise heads, and in 63, the medium and hi rise heads came onto the scene. In 64, to the best of my knowledge, the low rise heads went out of production. Leaving only the Medium and hi rise to contend with. Virtually all of the production heads, with the exception of on the 427, and some select dual quad 428's, were of the medium rise variety, and remained for all practical purposes unchanged til the end of production of the FE.
There are also some bolt up problems when trying to mix match between intakes and heads, when for instance, bolting a low rise intake on medium or hi rise heads. I dont remember all the specifics on that issue, so hopefully there is someone out there more up to speed on that little item.
The 390 GT heads used in the 66-67 Fairlanes and Comets were unique in that the manifolds bolted on in a conventional inline bolt pattern where other FE heads, the exhaust bolts go at the top and bottom of the port. There are some other specialty heads out there, but are very few and far between, as far as factory stuff. I am not real knowlegeable about the combustion chambers on the FE's other than from my understanding, they remained the same all the way through production, depending on the style of head, low, medium, or hi rise head. This being the case, there isnt any difference between a head off of a 74 390 truck engine and one from a 428 Cobra Jet.
Compression variations were dealt with by piston shapes rather than changing castings of the heads. Just goes to show, when you have a good thing, why mess with it.
Since I dont know the type of transmission you are currently or in future planning to run, makes choosing cams etc a little more difficult.
Running 10:1 compression on 93 octane shouldnt be a problem.
IF you want to really get some serious power out of the engine, Edelbrock makes an aluminum head for the FE block, and its a bolt up using stock components. One rule of thumb is that you can go one full ratio higher in compression running aluminum heads vs steel heads on the same octane gas.
My reasoning for limiting to 9.5:1 compression is that in years past, once you hit a magical 10:1 plus compression and start going over that, lower end engine life starts to decrease at a dramatic scale, and according to what articles I have read on that subject, 9-9.5:1 compression seems to be the best trade off point for compression vs bearing life. Another factor being that running on the street, opting for a slightly lower compression also allows the use of more readily available gasoline. In my travels around the country, I have noticed that not all places service the highest octanes of gasoline, and that could be a major pain at midnight, when you are down to the red line on the gas gauge, and the only station open for 50 miles in any direction only pumps 89 octane.
As for octane boosters, using something like 101 wont guarentee you having 101 octane gas. What that means is added to the correct octane gas and with enough of it added you could come up with 101 octane.
Octane boosters are only good for increasing your octane by 2-3%, meaning that if you have 91 octane gas and toss in a can of booster, you will only increase your octane by 2.75 octane at most, leaving you with roughly 94 octane gas.
Another thing to consider is that going from 9:1 to 10:1 compression will maybe net you a peak of 10 HP at peak RPM, and in my mind, thats not worth the added expense of the fuel or most likely the pistons to get it, as well as the slighltly shortened lower end life. The choice is yours.
Just my $2 worth, Thanks.
03-07-2005 06:40 PM
SAATR Thanks for the info guys. One other thing: This truck is more than likely gonna be a toy, mostly a weekend cruising, street/strip affair, so streetability isn't a huge factor. I want it to run on 93, or at least 93 with little octane booster, so I was planning on around 9.5-10 to one compression. I plan on travelling home to check the motor out this weekend, see what I can come up with on casting numbers, and get a better idea of what I'm dealing with. Another thing: as far as the heads go, how much of a difference is there among the 360 and 390 castings, as far as flow goes. I know the 428 castings will be the best, but they are just a little expensive, from what I've seen on ebay. Are there any particular castings I should keep an eye out for? Again, I appreciate this guys, keep it coming!
03-07-2005 05:29 PM
Max Keith
FE Block

390s only came stock with a 2 bbl to the best of my knowledge in the GT Fairlanes and Comets off 66-67, and in 68-71 Full Sized Fords. Anything else with a 2 bbl would be a 332/352/360. The 4 bbl swap is worth the effort, and that stock 4 bbl intake flows about as good as most aftermarket intakes; the biggest advantage of the after market jobs is in the losing of about 50 lbs. weight.
A good buildup would consist of first finding out exactly what you have.
What compression ratio, displacement, condition of the internals, etc.

Basics would be a 9-9.5:1 compression, and if its a pre 71 engine, the installation of hardened valve seats in the exhaust side. hardened seats arent needed on the intake side.
I wouldnt go with a real stout cam, staying in the area of 210-220 degrees duration. I have a preferance for cams with a narrow lobe separation, 108-110 degrees, however, most cams being ground for street today seem to be over 110 degrees. Since the FE block has very better than average flow on the exhaust side, going to a dual pattern cam isnt that much of a boost over a single pattern, as it would be with a SBF.
The Crane Energizer 266H10 , would be ideal an profile for your engine. One reason I do recommend Crane Cams in Fords over other brands is that Crane did all of Fords R&D for their performance grinds back in the 60's, when Ford woke up and went kicking everyones tails all over the planet in just about every form of racing you could think of. This cam would work well in just about any FE block you was to put it in. (Exception is a 427 unless its the 390 HP version produced in 69, which ran the same hydraulic cam as the 428).
A good set of headers and free flowing exhaust with a crossover tube or even running a single exhaust of 4 inch diameter would be even better if you have someone in the area that can work with that large of exhaust system. Barring that, running 2 1/4 inch duals would be the best way out.
I would go with a 600 CFM carb.
Providing you dont have any serious parts to replace, the rest of your $2000 will be pretty well ate up by your standard rebuild kit, block prepping and if needed, cleaning up the cylinders, which requires new pistons, and possibly the need to clean up the crankshaft as well.
Being this is a daily driver and you arent going to be running high rpm, I would opt for iron rings over cromalloy, being they are less expensive, quicker and easier to break in, and as far as life expectency, I havent seen where cromalloy rings are that big a deal there either.
With this setup you could expect to pick up an easy 50-60 HP over what you are currently running, and if you are running an autmatic trans, wont have to bother with going to a high stall converter, which I have never recommended for the street, unless you were running a real barn burner.
03-07-2005 04:13 PM
crazy larry well.....
i started with a stock 360 truck motor.
got a 390 crank, rods, and pistons.
chamfered all the oil passages
found a set of heads on ebay that had not been picked up for cheap...cleaned up the heads with a port match, and blend into the runners. three angle valve job.
edelbrock intake, cam, lifters, and carb.
arp fasteners


got the edelbrock stuff from jegs, wish i had known of ebay then, the rest of the stuff i got on ebay, for a lot less than i paid for the edelbrock stuff.

i have receipts for the motor totaling a hair over 2k. and it runs like a bat out of hell.

edelbrock heads are expensively cheap horsepower. but you ought to check these out.....click

heres the head guys site.

boy. i can't wait til i get to build a seriously bad motor. it's gonna be great!!!
03-07-2005 02:08 AM
KULTULZ It all depends upon what year and how the engine is assembled. It may be a low compression 360/390 (2V). It needs to come apart on the bench and be identified as to actually what it is. You will not believe the many ways they were built over the years. Once you establish what you have, then you can hawk out the rebuild and modifications.

Two areas they usually lacked in were cylinder heads and cam timing. But they do make one nice pickup engine.
03-06-2005 07:50 PM
SAATR Anybody?? Seriously guys. I looked up most of the basic rebuild parts at work today and it looks like it shouldn't be too expensive. I already have a cast four bbl intake and carb for it. All I really need to know is what these motors respond to. Porting? Bigger cam? More compression? I know I'll have to get a new dist., I just don't want to deal with points. Come on fellas, how do I make this motor come alive?
03-05-2005 07:56 PM
NXS I miss my 390 :sniff: It was all stock, less headers, factory 4bbl intake topped with a 4010, mallory unilite and a small .500" cam{5200 rpm max} spinning a 3000 stall thru a C6 with a stage 3 shift kit and 3.25 posi. I put a NOS brand 125 shot on it and smoked a claimed 12 sec truck. I miss my '69 390 SWB Ranger!
03-05-2005 07:29 PM
SAATR Considering the condition of the truck, and who we bought it from, it's doubtful that that is the original engine. All I know is that it is an FE block, and could very well be anything from a 332 to a 428. All I DO know is that I was told it was a recently rebuilt 390 when it was purchased, which I doubt, but we'll see when I get it apart. Well, assuming it's a 390, we'll go back to my original question:

What would be a good buildup for the engine, with a budget of about $2000?

Thanks guys.

Oh yeah, another thing. When we bought the truck, it had a 2 bbl intake and carb on it, but he included a 4 bbl intake for the motor. Which of those engines originally came equipped with a 4 bbl?
03-05-2005 05:41 PM
CrashFarmer2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Keith
One thing to note on using a 410/428 crank. They are externally balanced vs the rest of the FE blocks which are internally balanced, so this will require a 410/428 flywheel, Unless you plan to have the entire assembly rebalanced.
The 406 has the same stroke as the 390 and 427, Im assuming that was a typing error there.
Thanks Max, I missed that when I profread it. You are right I was putting that the 410 and 428 share the same stroke and I got in a hurry and typed 406. I had that right in the line above that. I suppose I should go back and edit that so as to not give anybody the wrong information.
The 410 was only put in some 1966-67 Mercury vehicles. I had a landlord, years ago, that had a 410 in his 66 Park Lane convertible.
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