|03-24-2005 10:50 PM|
I agree. A run only indicates that you have put enough material on!!
Also, Mequires has little sanding stones in grits ranging from 400 to 1500 and maybe even 2000(can't quite remember).
|03-24-2005 09:36 PM|
|baddbob||Yeah, If I don't get a little run somewhere when doing a complete I feel as though I should have put it on a little wetter It's usually a tight corner that gets a drip running out or something similar, tail light pocket, etc.|
|03-23-2005 12:28 PM|
|email@example.com||Yes, I am runny boy! Good point on the lump. May take a couple of scrape/polish rounds to totally eliminate the hidden lump. Once you do it a couple of times, you get a feel for when you are level with the surroundings.|
|03-23-2005 10:33 AM|
Sounds like you guys have had as much practice as me . Also after you get it scraped down as far as possible, lightly go over it with something like 800 grit to get it down the rest of the way before starting with 1500 -2000. If you start with to light of a grit your only polishing the hump.
|03-22-2005 01:20 PM|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||Yes it's a scraping action. That's why I linked to the cabinet scraper web site 'cause the principle is identical.|
|03-22-2005 01:13 PM|
Willys: I have never tried this, that's neat!
Am I understanding this right? You're not "slicing" the paint but
rather scraping by holding the blade 90 degrees to the surface?
|03-22-2005 12:54 PM|
|email@example.com||See the last two entries on this page. And quit piling on the paint!!|
|03-22-2005 12:43 PM|
The single edge razor blade it the best no doubt.
I just dull the ends on a grinder lightly and as long as you keep it straight up & down you'll be amazed.Yeah it will scare you at first,but you'll get the hang of it.
You will NOT scratch the good clear,it will just scoot across it.
You can also bow the blade for some non flat areas.
|03-22-2005 11:34 AM|
Ditto to above, and when you use a block to sand the remainder out make
sure it's a very hard block, not a rubbery one, I usually use a wood
block that I sand flat before using it.
I've taken a lot of runs out this way, it's really not that hard,
provided you have enough clear on it.
|03-22-2005 06:45 AM|
|baddbob||The key to removing paint runs is the material needs to be cured for the run to properly sand out. You can cut the run down first with nib files or use a blade to scrape most of the surface material off but then you'll need to let the stuff dry for awhile or bake it to get all the material the same hardness. The run itself will stay softer and rubbery much longer than the surrounding clear because it is thicker making sanding difficult. To sand the run out to perfection all the clear needs to be consistant in hardness. If you take a single edged razorblade and put some masking tape over the corners this can be an effective tool to remove most of the excess material from the run. Use the blade in a scraping motion not cutting and it'll scrape off most of the excess material. Then let the clear dry some before sanding with a small block. Runs can be completely removed to perfection if you don't rush. If you try to sand the run out while it is still in the rubbery state the surounding material will cut much faster and the run will still be visable when done. Hope this makes sense. Bob|
|03-22-2005 06:14 AM|
|BRENT in 10-uh-C||See if your paint store sells Nib Files. Ask them to give you a quick tutorial too.|
|03-22-2005 02:20 AM|
Help, paint runs......
I am clearing my front bumper cover and have created severe runs. I did this today and would like to continue adding coats tomorrow, how do I remove the runs?