|05-28-2005 04:04 PM|
Thanks for the advice, it's going pretty good so far, I'm about halfway done.
Check it out. The pictures don't do it justice, but it's raining here so no sunshine.
|05-28-2005 10:15 AM|
Block's are a must on panels as just using your hand will wave it baddly. Which you won't notice till your out in the sun unless it's really bad.
Buffing speed is best kept around 1000 to 1500 RPM.
You need "some" heat but getting up above 1700 will have a greater chance of burning.
I just prefer wool pad on the inital cut with 3M Perfect-It II or III depending on how the compound works with the preticular clear.
3M Swirll Remover on a black waffel pad will finish it nicely.
Then some Hand Glaze to top it off.
Just stay away (or VERY LIGHTLY) from the edges and raised transition areas with the buffer,it will cut thru faster than you will ever believe.
Be SURE the buffer pad direction of spin run's OFF the panel NOT TOWARDS it.
|05-28-2005 06:16 AM|
Explaining the process is difficult, your best bet would be to find a knowledgeable person in your area to demonstate. Sanding grit will be determined by how large of a defect needs to be removed. For major major texture problems some people start with 600 or 800 grit then step it down to 1200or 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000. If the paint went on good with just some minor peel then you may want to start with 1500 grit. The finer the grit used the less chance of a cut through and the easier it will be to buff. Sand a 2ft square area then squeegee the water off and check, when all the texture is gone move over and do another area, repeat. When you're done sanding one panel buff it with compond and move to the next- the clear buffs easier imediately after sanding (if it is still green). The slower the buffer turns the less chance you will burn the paint. 3M's perfect it 2 and 3 are good compounds, there are many good compounds available. Whenever possible use a backing pad when wetsanding, I use a thin piece of rubber, some prefer balsa wood. Straight sanding strokes, no circles, and change stroke directions when stepping down to a lighter grit- you will then be able to see when the cutting is done and it will sand faster.
Colorsanding and buffing is best explained and demonstrated in person IMO. I bet the video mentioned would be good.
|05-28-2005 12:42 AM|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||You need to buy the video "Color Sanding and Buffing", by Paintucation, available @ paintucation.com. Very thorough and informative step by step how-to.|
|05-27-2005 06:10 PM|
Wet sanding technique
Thanks for all the info on this board, I painted my car last weekend and it turned out quite nice. Now I'm going to wet sand and buff this weekend. What is the proper technique? What direction do I sand? crisscross, straight line, swirl motion. When using compound on a buffing pad what rpm do I use?
Same question for polishing sponge. I was wondering if someone could take the time to steer me in the right direction. Thank you. Tim
pic of my first paint job