Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> 2 Real Stupid Questions.....
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: 2 Real Stupid Questions..... Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
06-10-2005 10:49 AM
66 T-Bird i don't mind and i would love a 460.....but i don't have any money at all right now i just have money for car insurance and that's it. and my granddad has a 64 1/2 mustang that he will give me when he passes so may-B i can stick this hopped up 390 into that mustang and my tranny and rear and it'll fly (not that i want my grandad to die anytime soon)
06-10-2005 07:57 AM
KULTULZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66 T-Bird

yeah i got a really really good deal on that carb and my 3/4 throttle is like puttin it to the floor cause it'll bog if its under 3,000rpms and to the floor


Quote:
...and i am planning to have some big horse power flowin through that engine so i figured why buy a carb. now and then have to buy another one later when i've got more power.
I guess I am in a nosy mood this morning and after having read many of your previous posts concerning your BIRD, I feel I need to make some suggestions to possibly save you some money and heartbreak.

That 390/300 is in no way going to power that BIRD down the road like you are expecting. You need to consider an upgrade swap to a 460. Easy HP and torque.

I was young once... ...and wish someone had given me a little heads-up along the way.
06-10-2005 07:00 AM
66 T-Bird yeah i got a really really good deal on that carb and my 3/4 throttle is like puttin it to the floor cause it'll bog if its under 3,000rpms and to the floor and i am planning to have some big horse power flowin through that engine so i figured why buy a carb. now and then have to buy another one later when i've got more power. and don't make fun of my wing nut it'll put 50hp to the ground lmao lol j/p i might B a kid but i ain't a ricer
06-09-2005 05:35 PM
Jmark I take it the rest of the engine is stock? A timing light is still a very good idea. Borrow one from someone our get a cheapo for Checker or Autozone.

One side note, if the engine is stock or fairly stock, the 850 Holley will probably drown the engine and cause some serious bogs. But on the other hand, the Ford racing wing nut might off set any negatives the carb puts in! LOL

Mark
06-09-2005 05:28 PM
66 T-Bird yeah i'm building my car on a shoe string so i will probably use the vacuum gauge and here are the mods. to the engine this might help sorry i didn't know i needed to put that info... and the mods are like a cutt and paste thing so you won't need all of them

**all on a 390FE**
Holley blue electric fuel pump
Holley 850CFM mechanical secondary carb.
Edelbrock 2in. carb. riser
Holley fuel pressure regulator
Pertronix Flamethrower 40,000 volt ignition coil
Pertronix ignitor ignition system
Pertronix "stock look" race wires
Competition enginering 3-way adjustable drag racing shocks
K&N filter
Edelbrock filter housing
Ford Racing wing nut
Braided Stainless steel fuel lines
Polished hose fittings
Specter chrome filter
Summit Racing distributer cap
Summit Racing distributer roter
Custom Painted valve covers
Summit Racing Glass-Packs
Custom Exaust Turndowns

**All in a C-6 Auto Transmission**
B&M Semi manual shift kit

**All in a Ford 9in. Posi-trac Rear End**
Ratech ring and pinion installation kit
Richmond custom made 3.82:1 Race gears

Interior Modifications
3 1/4in Shift-lite tachometer
Summit Racing Oil Pressure Gauge
Summit Racing Water Tempature Gauge
Peak Racing Equiptment 5pt. Harnesses

3 1/4in Shift-lite tachometer
Summit Racing Oil Pressure Gauge
Summit Racing Water Tempature Gauge
Peak Racing Equiptment 5pt. Harnesses
06-09-2005 04:36 PM
docvette
Timing

Doc here,

No honest question is considered "Stupid" So ask away!

First the correct way to time your Car, Is get a Timing light, find the specs For your engine..(if SBC probably around 12 BTDC) locate and mark the timing mark on your Crank pulley, Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line..Start and WARM the engine be sure the choke is open.

The Index plate on the timing cover should be incremented in about 2 degree incriments..losen the Distributer and advance or retard as required to get the lines to meet, on strobe with the timing light, then tighten down the distributer. Check and set your idle with Vacuum advance re-hooked up..should be idling around 950 for Auto, 750 for manual..

The highest Vacuum method works too but IMHO is not as accurate as the timing light especially for computer controlled vehicles. where timing is critical.

The "Glass-packs" since I have known them..(about 35 years) have always "Popped" on wind down...because of lack of restriction, are like an "Exhaust leak" Timing and carb adjustments may quiet down the effect when dead on adjustments are meet...but will never eliminate it...at least until you get a more expensive muffler, like a flowmaster..

Doc
06-09-2005 04:32 PM
Jmark If the engine is stock, first check the point gap with a feeler guage with the rubbing block that is on the points sitting on one of the 8 high points on the dist shaft. Its better to use a dwell meter if you have one. (dwell is usually 30 to 32 degrees, point gap is usually .017)

After checking/setting the points, THEN check the timing. Using a vacuum guage leaves too much room for error in my opinion. Find the specs (most Ford V8's are 6 degrees) and un-plug the advance and set the timing with a timing light. Re-attach vacuum hose and set the idle speed according to specs. (usually 600 in drive)

As far as the popping noise, its pretty much how it goes with glass packs. You can usually mellow it down some by having a muffler shop put in a crossover pipe between exhaust pipes as close to the engine as possible.

Mark
06-09-2005 04:15 PM
66 T-Bird
2 Real Stupid Questions.....

I have 2 questions that i am almost embarrassed to ask.

1) I am looking to tune my distributer (vacuum), my friend said hook a vacuum gauge to a vacuum line and loosen the hold down on the distributer and with the engine running turn the distributer untill the vacuum reads the highest. is this correct or is my friend wrong?

2) I have some glasspacks on my car and when i have the RPMs high and i let off of the gas it sounds like pop corn is this normal for glass packs? and does this mean i need to adjust my timing? could this mean i am detonating? it sounds really mean revvin up but when i let go it just goes pop..pop..pop..pop and crackles a lot


Forgot to mention i did a quick search for vacuum advance and couldn't find anything helpfull

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.