|08-04-2005 08:55 AM|
|rapsag||T-400 automatic tranny. It is not tranny fluid.|
|08-03-2005 08:44 AM|
350 pan gasket
are you sure it is motor oil could be from the tranny/converter. you did not say weather it was stick or auto FYI
|08-03-2005 08:13 AM|
malc, Do not have to drag the gasket THROUGH pan and under the pump sump. Simply bring it all up UNDER the pan and then slip it over the lip first on one end and then on the other and the sides with it. For a test,if you will take a one piece and lay it on a flat surface, and flatten out the end (curved) pieces, you will see that it is wide enough to slip over the sides of a pan one side at a time. I am told this by a grizzly old shade tree mechanic that works at a local NAPA, who says he has done this. However, since I am not a witness I would have to make a test run first with a borrowed oil pan and the gasket(which I have). For the time being I am sitting on it since the leak is very small and seems to be from the pan as the oil drips down both the back of the pan and the outside of the flywheel cover to the low point (which happens to be where the drain hole also resides). When I took the cover off, there was no puddled fluid in it, the flywheel was dry, and the bearing seal looked dry.
For now I am happy, since the wiring problems are now solved (see my other thread). Will not bother you guys until need arrises. Thanks all. rap
|08-02-2005 02:32 PM|
|Henry Highrise||If you have drops of oil coming out the little hole in the bottom of your flywheel cover like you say you do...and the rear of the pan is dry like you say it is...your oil pan gasket isnot leaking...It is your rear main bearing seal that is leaking.|
|08-02-2005 02:13 PM|
I did mine on the Camaro and itīs best to get the pan out of the way, I canīt see how you can thread the one piece under the pump pickup, itīs a long ways down. I wouldīnt risk distorting it either it has metal reinforcements in it.
I took off the distributor cap but banged up the wiper motor with the driverīs side valve cover.
Wedge the motor well, it could cost you fingers.
|08-02-2005 02:05 PM|
MI2600 It says in the Haynes book to rotate the engine until the timing marker on the damper is strait down. This will place the forward crank in the highest position so the forward part of the pan can be slipped back without having to lower it. After all the above, I have made three conclusions:
1. If I remove the connections of the exhaust from the manifold on each side and lower it, suspend it with a wire. I believe there is enough room to weasle out the pan.
2. If it won't come out. There is enough room to remove and replace the gasket in place. Just have to be careful to remove any and all stuck on gasket and clean the surfaces.
3. Since adding the stop leak and driving a while I have only a minor drip or two from the rear pan seal every day or so. Soooo I can live with it if it does not change for the worse.
|07-23-2005 10:12 PM|
|rapsag||Will report later. Now I have a more important ignition problem. (see todays note)|
|07-23-2005 02:21 PM|
|MI2600||The Chevy manual's procedure is to raise the front of the engine off the mounts and insert a wood block (like 454 said) between the crossmember pedestal and the engine clam shell. They also say to rotate the engine crank to a certain postion (can't remember). Apparently, this moves the crank throws out of the way so the pan can slip out the back.|
|07-23-2005 02:10 PM|
|07-22-2005 07:43 PM|
|07-22-2005 04:43 PM|
|07-21-2005 10:01 PM|
|rapsag||PPS Mark, I looked twice at the rear main bearing and it appears dry above the pan seal and around the rear main. Will double check before I attempt anything else.|
|07-21-2005 09:34 PM|
PS. Forgot to relate that the nice man that built it put the passenger side motor mount bolt in from the front, and now the fuel pump housing is in the way, so it would have to be removed first. He apparently put the fuel pump on after installing the engine. Also would have to remove the hood, and carb. Also, the fan shroud has two supports bolted to it to hold up the modified radiator reservoir that sits atop the radiator. All of the above is why I am not too interested in raising the engine.
Does anyone think it would be better to wait it out and see if the leak remains this small, and I can learn to live with it???
|07-21-2005 09:28 PM|
|rapsag||Mark, that makes me feel better about the possibility. As for the other note about getting over the caps and oil pump, it should not be a problem since I would be bringing the gasket up under the pan and then slipping it over the pan edges which should work because of the elasticity etc I described. Would have to get it above the pan edges on one end first then work it around the other end. My only concern is dropping any debris into the pan would screw up the whole job. Especially if it was too large to flush out of the drain. Since this gasket is presumed not to be burnt and cracked, that should help, but what if it is fused on with gasket cement? Help!|
|07-21-2005 07:34 PM|
IF, and I say IF you can get ALL Of the old cork off the pan and the block, installing the one piece gasket would be my preference. My son does those all the time with only dropping the pan an inch or so. Trick is getting the surfaces clean and dry.
Any chance the rear main is leaking and not the pan? Very common on the 2 piece rear main. My new 350 just started dripping from the main. Pan gasket is dry as a bone. Not planning on changing it any time soon. It drips a few at night and while i'm driving but i'm too old to care and its too hot to do anyway LOL.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|