Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> molding a fiberglass cowl to a steel hood
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: molding a fiberglass cowl to a steel hood Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
08-07-2005 06:32 PM
S10xGN This is a pic of my (steel) S-10 hood with an older turbo regal (steel) hood bulge glued to it using 3M body adhesive. The fit was pretty close as-is and very little filler was required. No cracks what-so-ever after 3 years of duty...

Russ
08-07-2005 04:06 PM
302 Z28
Quote:
Originally Posted by lluciano77
Will the rivets still show up when I am finished?
No, a fillet of fiberglass resin will cover them.

Vince
08-07-2005 11:24 AM
malc I countersunk my rivets and left them in place.
The cowl was glued on with an adhesive I got from the bodyshop.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/hoods-66925.html
08-07-2005 10:40 AM
lluciano77 Will the rivets still show up when I am finished?
08-07-2005 10:08 AM
302 Z28 There are many ways to do this, here is how I would do it.

Once the opening is cut to size I would place the hood in position. Mark and drill holes equally spaced all around it for pop rivets through the scoop and steel hood. Rough up both mating surfaces with 40 grit sandpaper. Get some Evercoat Vette panel adhesive and spread it on the hood and scoop where they meet. Place the scoop on the hood and pop rivet it down. You will have to work fast as the Vette panel adhesive kicks pretty quickly. Test it before so you can get an idea of how fast it is. You can slow it a bit by cutting back on the activator. Once the scoop and hood bond has cured sand the excess Vette panel adhesive away. I would not use Bondo to fill in the areas, I would use fiberglass mat and cloth. Use Bondo like materials only to fill in low spots after the majority is filled with fiberglass mat and resin.

Harwood can give you some tips on what they have found works for them also.

If I remember correctly the factory glass hood scoops were placed so the mounting flange was under the hood instead of on top of it. An opening was cut so the glass scoop could be inserted up through the opening.

Vince
08-07-2005 09:33 AM
lluciano77
molding a fiberglass cowl to a steel hood

I used to have a '73 Challenger that had a fiberglass cowl flawlessly molded to the factory hood. I was wondering how they did it.

I was thinking of getting a 4" Harwood scoop. Would constuction adhesive keep it down and survive the elements? I can use bondo to float out theedges so it looks like one piece.

What do the body shop guys do?

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.