|08-19-2005 12:14 PM|
Ok well you just gave me a new idea with the tabs and the bolts. I have a welder and know how to weld so all that part isn't a big deal to me and can be easily done. I will try and get some pictures of the seats and load them up tonight. Check back on tonight and I should have a few pictures of the seats themselves, the tracks, brackets, etc. I think any route I go will be better than what I have now. The stock bench seat is only held in by 4 bolts to the floor and that's it and right now I only have 2 in there holding it down which is a stupid and bad idea but I couldn't get the other one's to thread in right and thought I'd leave it for now since I will be putting these bucket seats in.
Thanks for the help though man, I am going to go out there, take the bench seat out and see what the best plan to go by will be.
Thanks a lot!
|08-19-2005 09:40 AM|
A few more paragraphs would help immensely.
Enough about that.
I am a bit confused about the track your talking about. Can you post a pic of it?
As to U-bolts. Depending on the kind it is a possibility but not recommended even if they are heavy. Muffler clamps are a NO NO, I have seen it done.
2 things to consider. Load dispersion and frame interaction.
You want the stress to travel through the track/risers and to the floor in the largest area possible (the best way of thinking this through is that the system is like a waterfall going into a pond). The more mounts you can use the better (less pressure than 1 stream of water). The frame already have a mounting scheme that was engineered for this function. The more you use it the better. You still only are doing it halfway correct because the floor was engineered to carry the load from there.
The more you spread it out the better. This makes each anchor less critical. Once it gets to the next layer (Floor pan) the load needs to spread out. Putting (welding) a large 1/8" plate underneath with as big of a footprint as possible will spread out the load over the surface (Think about what happens when you stick a screwdriver though a hole and rock it, this is called a MOMENT ARM). It doesn't have to be a single plate for all but the larger that each mount loads through the better.
You also want to control the path, a U-bolt has the potential to allow the part within it to rotate (loss of load direction) you are better to weld a tab to the structure and pull the strap with a bolt on either side (Bigger the seat and occupant, larger the plate and thickness)
Fastener types should be no less 3 and above with correct torque applied and lock tight should be added to all. There should be no less than 4 full threads at the bottom of the bolt.
You don't want to mount to the frame of the vehicle (unless its a UNI-Body and that is a whole other discussion), people do this and I cringe. I know that alot of old cars had it but they crash tested the system and you haven't. Reason being is that if the body takes the right hit and the body metal is thick enough it CAN CUT THE BOLTS. BAD RESULTS
Seat mounts are critical and I am not aware of all the details on your app. so these are general comments.
|08-18-2005 09:28 PM|
Mounting Bucket Seats!
I have a C4 tranny I am getting built and put into my 66 Ford F100 and before I put in the new shifter and all I wan't to put in my bucket seats I have sitting here in my room so that I can have the shifter even further back in the center and more confortable. Anyways, I don't know what these seats are from but they are VERY comfy, the sides are big and look like really nice performance looking seats. Only problem is that since I have no clue what they are (I got them for free from my old auto tech shop when I was in high school) I don't know what brackets to use on them. They have little wheels on each side but that's it and a round bar in the front made into a square like. What I was going to do to mount these is just get some U bolts and bolt it to the floor since I don't need the seat to slide forward or nothing because it's a truck and has the gas tank behind the seat. Can I just put U bolts and good nuts on through the floor or should there be some reinforcment done to the floor first? I hear on the show TRUCKS that you never bolt seats straight to the floor without strengthening it up some first but I can't think of any good idea's to do that...
Next question... these things are maroon red and have a small tuck and roll in the center of the seat where you sit and the back goes. The maroon is very ugly to me and I would like to have them done in a grey color. The upholstery is like brand new on these things and I really dont have money to get them reupholstered and don't have a sewing machine to make some covers myself. Has anyone used that spray can stuff that changes the color of carpet and seats? I used it on vynle once on my golf cart that I use to take to dirt bike tracks and off roading (I put a big lift on it, etc and it gets some abuse) and it seemed to hold up ok on that for getting slid around on and all and would wear off after mud and everything but what about this stuff? Is it any good or what?
Thanks a lor for any info here guys!