|11-12-2005 03:48 PM|
|ragenrat638||better moisture control!!!!|
|11-12-2005 03:25 PM|
|evilone||Hey guys,I just sprayed my first coat of G2 and it seemed to work mutch better than the first slick sand I used several years ago.Thanks for the help!|
|11-11-2005 09:37 AM|
|evilone||o.k. guys....just ordered the G2...Ill keep you posted on the results....mabey ill post some of the pics!|
|11-11-2005 06:48 AM|
|11-10-2005 05:45 PM|
i used pcl polyprimer on my 72 Buick, check out the results, i liked it but harder to sand at first, seriously start sanding with 180-220 type grit paper, any finer and you will hate yourself.
here is my site
|11-10-2005 01:26 PM|
|11-10-2005 12:01 PM|
|evilone||Well I think my Q's have been A'd.I am working on a 77 vette,I have srtipped it and done all of my glass work,then epoxy primed it.Its kinda wavy all over so I wanted to prime it with the G2,and block it.Then I was going to DP20 prime it and paint it!Sounds like I was on the right track,I just wanted to get some other oppinions before I waste my time.Thanks for all the help!!!|
|11-10-2005 08:00 AM|
Another nice feature with the 2G is you CAN top coat over it without a 2K primer. I did this on a Chevelle and sprayed Omni MBC, Outside of some missed sand scratches it turned out great.
I sprayed 2 coats of epoxy first and did minor bodywork then Feather Fill 2G coats and blocked it out. On the couple of places I cut thru I just reapplied some more 2G and finished blocking the car with 400 wet.I should have gone 600 but the 400 really looked good enough then painted.
|11-10-2005 07:10 AM|
|rusty428cj||The reason I use it because a few years ago I went by this shop that works on Million dollar Ferrari's and custom cars and thats what he used. So I figured if it was good enough for him I would use it. So I copied what he does: strip to bare metal, rust repair, epoxy, body work, 2 coats of slick sand, block with 80, 2 more coats of slick sand, block with 180 and than you are ready for 2 coats of urethane primer with guide coat.|
|11-09-2005 10:14 PM|
|crashtech||My co-worker doesn't like to use it because he says it's too hard to sand (boo hoo!). I think that the very top layer is a bit tough to get through, but after that it is fine. I like using it on big bodywork jobs because it fills like crazy, and in two years have had NO comebacks due to a primer problem.|
|11-09-2005 09:14 PM|
If the stuff is used right and not abused it'll last for a very long time. I've never heard of any failures when the product is used right. Apply it over a good epoxy primer for excellent adhesion and durability. Although it specifies that it can be used over an exhisting finish just remember it'll only be as good as what's under it. If you cover old shrinking laquer and deteriorating paints then expect it won't hold up to it's true potential. The only person I ever heard complain about any of Evercoat's polyester primers said he had some spots that stayed soft and didn't harden--and I assume he must not have mixed it completely and didn't strain it so chalk that one up to user error. For years I shunned polyester primers which was a big mistake, it is a very good product when used properly. Featherfill G2 gets my vote.
G2 is available in black, grey, and nuetral. The black is especially usefull on underbody components. Start with a sandblasted metal surface then coat with black epoxy, then black 2G to fill any pits etc, sand and apply another coat of black epoxy then your chassis black or satin black urethane singlestage. The beauty of it is all materials are black so any rock chips and scratches will show very little down the road.
Another area where polyester primers really shine are small parts that are pitted. Parts like convertible top bows, windshield openings, and any parts with intricate shapes. These parts are a PITA to try and glaze even with a brush but spraying on polyester primer is easy. JMO
|11-09-2005 08:26 PM|
|evilone||Thanks for the RE guys....does anyone know how good it is in the long run tho?|
|11-09-2005 04:41 PM|
|rusty428cj||I use slick sand all the time great stuff. Once you mix it you have about 45 minutes before it hardens. I spray 2 coats and block out the next day. When you block sand it turns light gray and you can see the low spots or scatches as they are alot darker. I use SPI black epoxy first so it is easy to see high spots.|
|11-09-2005 10:49 AM|
Slick Sand & Feather Fill 2G are both EXCELLENT products. As long as they are applied as directed,they will outlast most of US.
I use Feather Fill often for "problem child" surfaces and has gotten me out of trouble MANY time's.
Rember that it IS an activated product as it use's the same hardner as fiberglass so your potlife will be ticking as soon as it's mixed.
CLEAN your gun as SOON as your finished as it will harden up SHORTLY.
|11-09-2005 09:35 AM|
Slick Sand help!
Hey guys!I was just wondering what everyone thinks of Slick Sand or any of the same type products work.I am mostly concerned with the life span of the product and the warranty issues.Thanks in advance!