|11-29-2013 03:42 AM|
|poncho62||How to hot rod a brick.........|
|11-29-2013 01:30 AM|
|Imperial Kustom||Aluminum bolts an unneeded accessory removal are good starts. swiss cheese parts you wouldnt think of. Seat frames, pedals, hood and door inner structures, behind the kick panels, inside the glovebox door, steering column mast jacket, floor braces in the bed, radiator support, roof braces, etc. Remove the inner fenders and any interior pieces that dont matter like radio, carpet heater box. Dump the a/c and get the non a/c accessory drive. Replace the solid panel supports with brake line and remove everything that isnt "needed".|
|11-28-2013 10:27 AM|
Wellllllllllll since this was originally posted I have spent a little time "hypermiling and I have to say this is the place to find out how to make that truck lighter. Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
Spend some time at the Ecomodder site and you WILL find the best way to lighten that truck. One thing I have found is that the AM made in China parts are much lighter. I literally put an S-10 bumper on the scale and it was almost half the weight of the original one!
|11-28-2013 08:58 AM|
|Valkyrie5.7||I drive a 96 2wd 3/4 ton every single day. It has a lowly 5.0L vortec that was rated at the flywheel with something like 230hp. Would I chop it up just to make it go a little faster? Hell no. Talk about taking the piss right out of a truck. All that stuff that guy was getting rid of in 2005 to gain a supposed 70hp? Take the time you spend fiddling around on your truck making it absolutely useless as a truck and get a second job. Buy a supercharger kit and you'll have that 70hp in no time.|
|11-28-2013 08:35 AM|
So any luck lightening the truck? Sorry reviving the dead-a search for ideas brought me here.
Im dead-on with you regarding questions being shushed off and others knowledge or ego forcing them to tell you what they do know.
I like the gmt400 as much as anyone-
Haven posted here for the same reasons viewed in this thread.
Fwiw, i have a 5.7 rod 400 setup, newer style rings and aluminum heads-was told "none of that stuff adds durability. Like side thrust of the piston doesnt load the wall lol.
Anyway, my goal is to proce in torque my theory- the ls is a great engine, but not leagues above a 1973 block, and vehicles are lighter now, injection and timing better, therefore i stole the engine controls from the ls and crammed a hyd roller in my 400.
Along with other goodies.
Dont listen to the ones who detract your theorizing, just let them wonder what you have when they cant beat you!
I honestly wish this were a place to share tips and knowledge ON SUBJECT but my experience here was quite like yours.
I casually posted, and years of racing, mechanic skill, machine working and mechanical knowledge were overlooked and treated as if meaningless! And yes, i tried to lay low, acting ignorant as i WELL KNOW what 400 cubes at 6500rpm does-but was told it was not worth it lol.
Sorry for the peaceful rant, hope OP gets this and is still willing to share insight and knowledge here or via PM or even phone (please do PM me, id love to speak with you!)
NOONE knows EVERYTHING- folks like us simply want to collect info while sharing ours. It makes everyone better.
Noone posts pics of what really made the ride, just a huge motor that gets 10 mpg! Um, you could do that in 1970!! Lets all understand that making a valuable resource of information is kinda the point here and have fun with it instead of writing off things you dont know about!
|06-25-2013 07:28 PM|
|johnnyg||this thread is from 2005!!|
|06-25-2013 07:11 PM|
Hey Kyle, I hear you on weight reduction. And I understand how you feel, it's like walking into a gun store and saying "I want to handle a Glock 19" and they guy behind the counter starts telling you why you should be considering a Kimber 1911. You've done your homework, you know what you want, you didn't ask him to teach you about another gun, you just wanted to hold a Glock 19, or in this case, cut weight out of your truck.
With regards to weight savings, and goofy as it may sound, I did major weight reductions on my '86 Chevy S10 that I had for several years. It was an original reg cab, long bed, 2wd, with 2.8 V6 (first year with TBI injection) and 5-speed manual, with 196K miles on original drivetrain. When I bought it, it ran fine, but felt gutless. Understanding horsepower/weight, and wanting to experiment, I started cutting weight, and here's what I remember doing:
1. detail clean and pressure wash
2. remove in-bed tool box
3. remove chrome bed rails
4. remove tailgate (heavy beast!) and all connecting hardware and mounts
5. remove rear bumper, and bumper mounts, and hardware
6. remove spare tire, plus spare tire frame mount, plus all associated hardware (lots of metal!)
7. shave about .5" of extra stell off bottom of bed panels
8. cut exhaust after catalytic converter, use flextube and exit pipe in front of rear tire
9. remove all exhaust mounts from frame (several large steel pieces!) plus about 6 feet of tubing
10. remove headliner from cabin
11. remove excess vinyl from under seat
12. remove jack and tools from behind seat (heavy stuff)
13. remove dome light
14. remove factory stereo from dash, all wiring as far as I could trace it, and dash speakers (I fabricated a nice looking black sheet to fill the gap, looked factory)
15. removed floor mats
16. removed seat cover and just cleaned up the vinyl seat
17. removed plastic door jamb kick panels
18. I went through the ENTIRE truck and snipped off all unnecessary zip ties, and cut excess plastic off needed fasteners and zip ties
19. I removed all intake tubing, and flipped the air cleaner lid (noticeable power gain, plus weight savings) and hardware
20. I removed several rubber and plastic pieces around the engine bay that were nice, but not necessary
21. I stripped the insulation out from under the hood, and then cut out the webbed bracing under the hood, which made it much lighter and the hood was still plenty strong/stiff
22. I removed the decorative aluminum bowtie hubcaps
23. I put lower-profile and lighter weight tires (wide enough for grip) all the way around
24. I cut sections out of the plastic grill that seemed redundant, and it still looked fine
I know there was more but I forget. I had over a page of reductions listed at the time.
The interesting thing was, NOBODY who ever rode in my truck mentioned that it looked "stripped." They just said, "what a cool old truck!" And I still drove it daily and used it to haul stuff and help people move.
Now the good part, after all of that weight reduction plus a basic tune up, that little truck breathed better (remember exhaust and air lid flipped) and ran VERY QUICK! In first - third gears I could keep up with anybody and I had a running page of street races I'd won. No major victories, but I can legitimately claim that 0-55mph that truck beat a V6 Mustang, a V6 2006 Hyundai Sonata (quick cars), a riced out VW Golf, a riced out Honda Civic, a riced out Nissan 200 SX, an Acura Vigor, a bunch of other cars and I hung real tight with a V6 Toyota Camry. It was a fun truck that would burn out hard through 1st and 2nd gears, and it played hard. I sold it after 3.5 years of beating and racing and fun, and it still ran great..except maybe I was losing synchros between 1 and 2,...and the clutch was starting to slip, and the motor was developing an mechanical miss... Most fun vehicle I ever owned.
Weight reduction made all the difference! Hope it goes well.
|11-11-2005 08:48 AM|
Take your hood off and stand on a bathroom scale. That is what I would do. By the way, the "shipping weights" on these parts are no where that I know of because they are shipped in bulk to the dealer. Sure, they get UPSed once in a while, but that info isn't kept as far as I know. Besides, it would include the PACKAGING!
You want to find out, take the parts off and weigh them. Can't get anymore accurate that than.
|11-10-2005 08:56 PM|
One of my joys in hotrodding is spending time with my friends and helping them with their projects... they run the whole gamut... dedicated race cars
drag, nasa, porshe club of america, street rods, 50's cadillacs, model T's
But I usually listen to what they are trying to do and then use my resources to locate or build what they need....
We are on post, what 13?, and instead of the help I need coming here in the form of useable information I'm just getting .... what I'd do... my thread title was specific to saving weight...did that to attract those who, like me,
see that as smart way to go.... this is the norm, actually, at the racetrack-so I gotta say I find it pretty amazing to find such little interest or infomation here... I know how hard and how much money it takes to gain horsepower..
especially when you are trying to do it in a dual purpose machine with factory small block, keeping it emissions legal, and stock appearing...
75 to 90 horsepower is alot... and the shedding of weight is almost always
more cost effective than hard parts purchase...I'm going that way.. period..
Found 600 lbs to ditch on my Dart.... I'll find 500 to 600 fot the Shortwide
Want to see what a 2600 lb Dart looks like???
Fairly "sleeperized" and not cut up... this pic is before the bumper change
No one looks at my Dart and sees 2600 lbs and 500 horses... they find out
when I pull the cable and the exhaust note changes from turbos to open headers and the White and Light pulls away fast...hard to see the quality of the paint on the hood when you are looking at the rear all the time.
Mustangs, Camaro, Vettes, Ricers.... most don't touch my Dart's power to weight ratio...nor their drivers my track knowledge..can you say
The LS1 is one of chevrolets best of all time.... deserves to go into
as light a chassis as possible... that's what I'm doing here..
Found Carbon Fiber hoods on web but best price so far is $500... would like to see if I can do better and need to know the stock weight of Chevy steel
hood so real gains will be known...
|11-10-2005 07:39 PM|
Kyle, sounds like you care a lot more than I do, so I will leave you to figuring out all this.
|11-10-2005 07:31 PM|
Well, you're dropping a lot of good info and contacts for info if you dont post and leave, but it's up to you. This site is a very special site for a lot of people and their hobbies/careers. Every one of the tech forums on here is full of some of most knowledgable and helpfull people you meet. You will find we get into intricate convos more then just answering some guys post blindly. With this comes a lot of questions to figure out what you're doing and suggestions to maybe rethink the plan. I'm sure you know a good bit too, but it will never expand if you dont take in what others are telling you. We explained that we knew the theory of power to weight ratio, but also you were told by people that have been doing collision work on that vehicle that it's not going to work as easy as you think, far from it actually. The more openminded you are to new perspectives on things like this, the more likely you are to succeed, pick the best one, or make a combination of them and make an even better one.
But to get to answer your question from origonally, no, I dont and I dont think anybody else on here will know where to get factory panels made out of glass for your truck, regardless if it adds weight also.
|11-10-2005 06:03 PM|
|twinturbopickup||i havent lightened anything on my 88 and im running high 9s it weighed 3780 with the small block running elevens now it has a big block here are my thoughts worry about power traction and getting it to move a bit quiker before you lose the weight it hasnt even crossed my mind yet im still figuring out my new motor and just put a different stall in it so it will luanch with some boost.|
|11-10-2005 05:38 PM|
All my vehicles perform.... but I don't think Im going to respond to anything more here than what I've ask for and haven't gotten.... lightweight parts sources..
Nothing I'm preposing is difficult..overly time consuming..or expensive..
I do exhaustive planning before I move... I gather alot of pieces from Ebay and the new ones I need...my planning and gathering might take a year plus..
usually have the bulk of my projects knocked out in 2 weekends with help from 4 or 5 friends.... I wrench for them on their stuff...I get them to help with major sections... I finish up on smaller details..they will help with engine and if I decide to give my truck a fabbed alluminum bed floor... that too..
Chevy shortwides have a pretty good service life... some outlast their owners...body style on mine is nice enough to remain poplular I'm sure..I like all the old shortwides except 73-80...back to the 30's... don't see any reason not to set it up how I like it now....3 of my friends work on Airplanes... the quality is always top knotch..
|11-10-2005 02:55 PM|
|1931 steve||Sounds like allot of work to gain a little less weight!! Why did you buy a truck if you want a performance vehicle? Why chop up a good 1999 truck?????|
|11-10-2005 02:44 PM|
I already own the truck... I hear what you are saying about the weight of the front metal pieces..... and maybe it seems I am obsessing....
This is my hobby that I don't mind spending time on.... I don't mind spending hours and hours and hours searching over every last detail before I spend my hard earned dollars.... BUT when I do strike...the results are usually pretty good... they are always thoroughly and thoughtfully researched.. this is what I am doing here with these questions...
I think 1000 lbs is completely unreachable..... totally absurd unless I just
LOVED the body style and was dead set on being the fastest full size Chevy in America....then a frame swap might be in order... but let me explain the goal with an example I sighted...
The 2 car 2800/3800 example provides info we can desiminate..
What is the weight difference.................. 1000 lbs
What is diffence in power required .......... 160 hp
For arguements sake lets round it to 150 horsepower
What is HP advantage for every 100 lbs ... 15 hp
This crude estimation tells us that if I can save 500 lbs then gain in
horepower needed will be
15 x 5 = 75 hp
600 lb 15x 6 = 90 hp
How much money would need to be spent to achieve 75 to 90 hp by
conventional means..full time hp not nitrous... the 75 to 90 will be with you all the time...
stroker crank $450 to 850 plus install
400, 500, or 600 lb savings is reachable with work and low dollars.. 60 to 90hp
Only a stoker crank is going to be a better value and then if you do it
I am dead set on getting the 75 to 90 hp that is sitting there cheap and easy for nothing more than my time to find it and a few dollars...
Truck was weighed in bone stock conditon with bumpers and spare tire..
You guys job is to help me find 500 lbs or 600... so called body experts??
prove it by knowing the factual weights of the pieces.... are the shipping
weights in your ordering books.... there is the info to compare with
glass pieces to do the cost estimation with... then we will know... how
close can we already come to 500 lbs.
Part/Action Weight savings est
Wheels 70 pounds 70
Remove Spare Tire & hanger ? 45
Rear Bumpr remove & rollpan ? 70
Light battery 20 pounds 20
Tailgate ? 40
Front bumper to glass.. ? 25
Aluminum heads ?
Aluminum water pump ?
lightweight starter ?
tubular A arms ?
Cut out bed floor.. fab aluminum sheet ?
See it now?? the makings of 75 to 90 hp .... subtotal has us 230 lbs away
from 75 horespower....if the bed floor is heavy gauge... would that sole
improvement get it to 500 lbs...???
Everybody has their own style of hottrodding... I look at weight savings
like alot of people look at exhaust/headers.... one of the first places..
WITHOUT me in it truck is 3900... sure we can't get it to 3400 or 3300
Bet it can be done and without hacking the crap out of it..I won't hack it.
You guys hotrodders? here is your mark.
Once the weight of everything is known descisions can be made what
to replace...what is best $ and time per dollar... and what could be
dual purpose hp/weight savings... like aluminum heads, aluminum
I knew all these things before I came and asked questions about
lightweight parts here... so enduring the onslaught of naysaying has been
pretty lame.... I'm a racer not a an idiot...
I will hit 500+ naturally aspirated with stroker, cam and factory head
port on LS1.... already done the computer mock up... whether that is
more like 575hp or 590hp depends on weight ...
Would like to hear from some body guys with factual weights on
factory parts and cheapo Mexican/Chinese parts and Fiberglass...
Where are the freethinkers??? where are the inovators?? need weight
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