|11-15-2005 01:09 PM|
Thanks alot everyone. You have all been a great help. Thanks again.
|11-15-2005 12:42 PM|
I use Ful-poxy and I will sand or red scotch pad it after 24 hr just to be safe.
I was trying to save you a step without doing much filler over the 2K.
You can guide and block the epoxy real close BEFORE applying 2K, That way, You should be all set to just block the 2K and shoot it.
Light spot filler is fine with a light sand then primer over it with a 24 hr wait after primer for proper cure as BK stated.
|11-15-2005 12:16 PM|
I think you will be ok to scuff the 2k and apply some more filler, feather out and then apply some more 2k and re block the panel...For future reference, if you guide coat the filler like you do 2k, you will catch any low spots in your work before you spray your 2k...
As for the nasson epoxy? Dont know.. Dont use it.... I think and I say think cause I am not sure at all, but most of what I have read, people always say this epoxy or that epoxy has to be sanded after 24 hours... Now spi can go 7 days, but it is a different epoxy than what you are using
Check your P sheet , if you dont have one, look online and check there.
Edit: Look for the P sheet here... You may find it.. gotta go
Dupont Automotive Refinish
|11-15-2005 10:27 AM|
|rcm800||I am using Nason products. Yes my questions was if I needed filler after block sanding the 2K. Should I sand the 2K completely off or scuff and add filler, sand and recoat with 2K. I am also using Nason epoxy. I cannot find in the tech sheet about topcaoting it. I assume that I need to either sand or scuff with scotchbright before topcoating. Anyone know for sure?|
|11-15-2005 09:34 AM|
|oldred||I think the question was about adding filler or glaze over 2k urethane primer? I found that filler or glaze does not adhere well to cured 2k unless it is sanded first, Nason 2k anyway. My experience is limited so maybe the pros here well comment on this?|
|11-15-2005 08:00 AM|
You can rough block the epoxy with 180-220 to SEE if you have some bad spots needing filling BEFORE the 2K.
Might not be a bad idea anyway if the epoxy has been on awhile.
|11-15-2005 07:56 AM|
If you want a really high-build primer try a polyester primer like Evercoat Slick Sand or Feather Fill G2.
High build, no shrinkage, and sands easy. Sounds to me like it might fit your situation nicely.
|11-15-2005 07:27 AM|
I would apply 2 heavy wet coats of 2K primer (follow the epoxy P sheet about topcoating) , and block sand with a guide coat. Do not worry about sanding through the 2K primer, just spot shoot the area with more 2K and feather it out.
|11-15-2005 07:04 AM|
Filler after 2K primer question
Here is where I am at. I have applied epoxy primer on my bronco. I have then done some small repairs with evercoat Gold and glaze and then I reapplied epoxy over that. I am pretty sure that I have all my panels straight. I am ready to spray my 2K urethane primer on it for block sanding. My questions is that if I find out that I have a problem while block sanding, how do I go about reapplying filler and/or glazing to fix. Do I have to completely sand down the 2K and apply filler? If I do how would I be able to get a smooth edge from the old to the new 2K primer. I also have a couple of small pinholes in my filler work. Should I fill these with glaze before the 2K? I assume that the 2K would not fill these holes right?
Just a little confused about the filler after 2K. Can filler and/or glaze go over the 2K?