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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-18-2005 03:17 PM
Scode68 The Lexus code for Black Garnet Pearl Metallic is 3Q2. Dupontís number is P4044IB. I know it is on the 2002-2003 ES300 and 2004-2005 ES 330 so you should be able to see the color at a dealerís lot. The label on the paint can says it is also a 2001 Toyota color. Its more red than purle compared to the newer GM color.





I think it looks a lot better in person than it does in these pictures I found!
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11-18-2005 11:11 AM
joeford
Top Coat

I'm interested in something close to a black cherry with fine metal flake....Is there something close in a dupont nason?
11-17-2005 09:15 PM
Scode68
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
*************************************************
Nason on a Lexus? Red at that?
Sorry, I thought I had herd it all and had to vent.

Itís actually like a very dark metallic maroon that looks black when the sun isn't hitting it. They where able to mix it with the Nason so I went with that for my 68 Mustang coupe.
11-17-2005 10:29 AM
jcclark Barry, do you think he's painting a Lexus?
Sounds like he picked a color used on a Lexus?????.
Anyway, that's why it's better to come here for info
instead of the paint store.
As you know, there are all different smart levels at the stores.
11-17-2005 09:26 AM
BarryK
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scode68
I had a similar experience but wanted to use the DTM Epoxy primer. The ďExpertĒ there told me that the school was still out on using it and told me to use the Self-Etch Vari-Prime. They also talked me out of using the Chroma-One and into the Nason Ful-Thane. The Ful-Thane comes factory mixed but it is also available in any car manufactures factory color as long as they could find the formula. Iím going with Black Garnet Red Pearl that is on the 2004-2005 Lexus ES-330s.
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That expert should be shot!
He does need a lot of training for sure, if we let him live.

Nason on a Lexus? Red at that?
Sorry, I thought I had herd it all and had to vent.
11-17-2005 05:28 AM
Scode68 I had a similar experience but wanted to use the DTM Epoxy primer. The ďExpertĒ there told me that the school was still out on using it and told me to use the Self-Etch Vari-Prime. They also talked me out of using the Chroma-One and into the Nason Ful-Thane. The Ful-Thane comes factory mixed but it is also available in any car manufactures factory color as long as they could find the formula. Iím going with Black Garnet Red Pearl that is on the 2004-2005 Lexus ES-330s.
11-17-2005 04:14 AM
adtkart Many of the larger jobbers will actually send their people to school to learn about the products. Then again, amy of the counter people are just hobbiests or former parts people. If a jobber's main business is large shops, they call the manufacturer's reps for problems or questions.

Aaron
11-16-2005 05:59 AM
jcclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeford
have a right to expect an expert knowledge base at the local paint store that represents the Paint store?....I mean to some degree is that not a part of the price we're paying for high end performance paints?
...
Actually, NO!
Please notice the fine print on your paint cans, "NOT FOR RETAIL SALE"
Car paint is NOT suppose to be sold to the general public and is intended
for "professional use" only. It's a wholesale product.
So actually you can't really "expect" help from the store, they all do it
but some have actually got in trouble for selling to the public.
I had one jobber move to the adjacent county just so he could
continue selling to hobbyist like me. He was facing fines here.
You better off coming here for your advice,
some store people can and will give you bad advice.
You'll get the best help here and other forums.
11-15-2005 06:57 PM
joeford
Bee4 and After

You guys are the best...Thanks for the quick and direct response....I'll let you know how it turns out.....
11-14-2005 11:23 AM
Bee4Me
Quote:
I note from the spec sheet that this is a non-sanding primer. So, question is...how can I straighten out the bad spots and improve overall leveling of the primer before moving on to the topcoat?
Just means that you CAN top coat right over it without sanding IF in the recoat window of that primer.
Sand out you bad spots and scuff the rest with a red scotch pad,clean off with wax & grease remover,Reshoot another primer coat and paint it.
If the bad spots sand out ok with out cutting thru,block out the rest and clean,paint.
Question will be IF the primer LOOK'S smooth enough for a color coat. That will determine WHAT to do next.
11-13-2005 09:42 PM
joeford
Post Priming

OK...guys thanks for weighing in so fast....I'll take your advice and stick with the Nason product over the 2540s primer as recommended by the store. Actually now have the first coat of primer on the chassis....I'm afraid however that I rushed in to the project too quickly....It was raining out and I had no place to test the new gun.....The first few minutes was nothing but spitting and sputtering....A few minutes into the job however and I was shooting paint like a pro....well maybe a pro's helper...I'm afraid however that the few minutes of spitting and sputtering took their toll and I now have areas where the paint thickness varies due to the inconsistent application of paint. I note from the spec sheet that this is a non-sanding primer. So, question is...how can I straighten out the bad spots and improve overall leveling of the primer before moving on to the topcoat?

The novice....
11-12-2005 09:29 PM
Lost in NJ
Etching prime is not old school

The problem is in its misuse and true purpose.

Etching primer was designed for painting smooth metal that has not been mechanically etched with sandblasting or sanding.

The primer has some acid that will bite with the metal.

Lots of guys use it cause it is cheaper and all their buddies tell em to use it. Many people fail to do the most important step. Read all of the tech sheets and understand what each product is good for.

Epoxy is great but it must be applied to etched (chemically or mechanically) metal.

Keep in mind epoxy is not the only product that can be put direct to metal. A lot of the filling urethane primers can go DTM to. Just remember it is not good to put bondo type products over etching primer.

Go to your dealer and get a bunch of product sheets, read them, and go back and ask questions. Also ask questions at the paint manufacturers websites too. They have been very responsive to my questions and I tell them I am a hobbiest.
11-12-2005 07:19 PM
302 Z28 Nason is DuPont, so there will be zero problems. One of our club painters uses Nason primers and top coats and mixes and matches with DuPont all the time and has excellent results.

Vince
11-12-2005 04:29 PM
kenseth17 not using this exact combination, I can't say for sure it will work. But I suspect it will. I agree your paint store expert that etch primer is outdated compared to todays products. The reason the primer isn't listed could be that its in a different product line, the nason being a lower line. Nason has an epoxy primer also you could use that would most likely be lower priced. I am not real familiar with dupong. But for a comparison ppg's low line is omni. I doubt they say in the tech sheets the omni epoxy is okay to use as an undercoat for the delton line, but I've used it under deltron base, limco base and others without problems. Also used other line of urethane primer( marhyde) under a few different lines of paint without problems. Many on here use spi products under different lines of paint. You are right to be concerned not seeing it listed on the tech sheet, but many undercoats seem compatable with different lines of paint. They do develop products in a line to work together, but thats not to say using something else won't work fine, but there is always a chance it won't and your on your own on any procedures.
11-12-2005 04:15 PM
BarryK The store gave you great advice!

Yes you can use the Dupont with the Nason with no problems at all, and don't ever expect to see it written in a tech sheet that the two will co-mingle.
Won't happen!

Follow the stores advice and get the job done and post pictures.
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