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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-30-2005 07:18 AM
crashtech Yeah, lead is toxic, and can cause things like brain damage if ingested. Just look at me!

(Please be careful!)
11-30-2005 02:55 AM
adtkart I don't know why you would have lead in the center of the roof, but sure wouldn't want to use heat to remove it. It sounds like there is a dent there, that was filled. If it was me, I would remove the headliner, if it has one, and try to work the dent out from the inside. If the lead is coming loose, try taking as much of it as yoou can with a sharp knife. What you can't get off that way, use a grinder, but make sure that you have protection. That includes atleast gloves and a respirator. You will have lead dust in the air, and that is a really bad thing!

Aaron
11-29-2005 11:48 PM
62galaxiguy
When i stripped

the car the sail panels were wavy but the lead had no adhesion problem.But the was a circular spot in the center of the roof about the size of a quarter that was peeling away from the edge..I epoxy primed it and will have togrind out the lead( or use heat to melt it but im afaid the heat will effect the epoxy primer on the rest of the roof..What would you do?
11-28-2005 08:54 PM
crashtech I've seen adhesion loss of filler over lead before. The problem went away when I let the filler cure longer. I would make sure that the filler used has the extra adhesion promoter like Evercoat's ZNX-7. I believe some other filler manufacturers are coming out with something similar now, too. Of course, spraying epoxy first would also be an excellent method if time allows.
11-28-2005 08:30 PM
b16ej1 Yes the factory solder was in was appeared to be very good condition. Seemed to have good adhesion with no cracks or visual blemishes.
The only thing that i can think would have caused this would be not cleaning the lead with some type of solvent before applying filler.


Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
Usually bodyfillers will stick just fine to body solder but I usually apply epoxy after the stripping stage before any filler work and have never had any problems. Was the factory solder in good condition with no evidence of seperation around the edges? Usually the sail panel areas seem to hold up Ok but on most models the A-pillar to roof seam is usually bad with cracks and corrosion underneath on GM cars, not sure about the older Fords though.
11-28-2005 08:29 PM
46chevyfleetline A local restoration guy who only works on cars that are worth more than I make in five years told me that when he runs into lead and it is still good but needs to be built up a bit he will use metal lux(3 part)powder,resin, hardener.If it has started to seperate he removes it and repairs it. I know metal lux is tough because I've used it to repair props and never had a complaint. I know of three repairs that I did over ten years ago and they are still using the props. back to the lead question he then epoxy's over it. Then he lets it sit for about two weeks. Thats just one guys method. Hopefully well'l get a some comments on this method to help tou out. I'm interested in this also 'cause we got a 64 out back standin' in line to get into the shop. Cheers!!! and good luck!
11-28-2005 08:10 PM
baddbob Usually bodyfillers will stick just fine to body solder but I usually apply epoxy after the stripping stage before any filler work and have never had any problems. Was the factory solder in good condition with no evidence of seperation around the edges? Usually the sail panel areas seem to hold up Ok but on most models the A-pillar to roof seam is usually bad with cracks and corrosion underneath on GM cars, not sure about the older Fords though.
11-28-2005 07:58 PM
b16ej1 A few months ago i was working on an old Ford Galaxie 500 and ran into a little problem with the lead on it. Normally they have got my working on newer cars so i've had few run ins with it. Basicly i stripped the whole thing down with 36 then 80 on a hog. I was using some Evercoat Glaze on a leaded seam over the lead that was sanded with 80. i started cutting it with 80 and when i was just about ready to 180 it i started noticing some of the filler was actually coming off the lead at the edges making it impossible to feather. i ended up using some ppg epoxy and then fixed all the leaded seams and then primed.

is this what you always have to do to lead or was i just unlucky?
11-06-2005 09:30 AM
OneMoreTime
Minor waves

From what is said these are minor waves that woudl be visible in the finish..On something like this a glazing material or high build primer may be the way to go..Apply and then block out the section till it is smooth..this may take a guide coat or two to get right..Probably not a lot of fill is needed to get rid of the waves..The idea of using a body file to take down a high spot is good also..

OMT
11-06-2005 09:01 AM
roger1 Why not leave the lead there, use a body file to flatten it out, sand and coat with epoxy primer?

Then you could use filler on top if needed or just go with a coat of polyester primer if a lot of blocking is deemed necessary.
10-31-2005 06:11 PM
shoddy_f-body Id be interested in the answer also. I'm starting on a 56 t-bird and it has lots of lead seams and repairs in it. In the past i have sprayed epoxy prime over the existing lead to seal it and smoothed out the joints with plastic filler over the epoxy.
10-31-2005 05:46 PM
62galaxiguy
removing wavy factory leadwork?

Im restoring a 62 galaxie xl and the ford factory leadwork is wavy at the sail panels,It also has wavy leadwork(collision damage?) at the qtr panels both sides directly above the tailights along side the deck lid.Im gonna cut and buff the paint so this bodywork has got to be straight.Any advice.thanks mike

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