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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-02-2005 12:41 AM
jjl Barry,
I think that what you refer to was once called DUCO out here. It was the predecessor to DULON which was acrylic lacquer. I know one guy out here that still has a store of DUCO, he prefers it to all other paints but only uses it on his cars.
12-01-2005 08:38 PM
baddbob I thought I seen a company advertise Nitrocellulose lacquer for sale in Hemmings not long ago, on the east coast if I recall. But I could be wrong. Bob
12-01-2005 06:56 PM
BarryK Hey guys, thanks for the education on the nitro.
Learn something everyday!

A company that worked wonders with that type of paint and still made it up to mid 80's was a company called "Belco" they were at the time OEM on the rolls and Bentley. Sprayed like lacquer but looked like enamel -dried fast with a gloss.

The trick was if it matched you did not dare buff it or it would change color.
If it did not match you buffed it and chances are it would match.
It was fun to spray and easy to use. Only Rolls repair could get it in states and it was a premium back than.
I don't know if the company is still in busines or not. English company if I recall?
12-01-2005 07:47 AM
DUCKY Yes, furniture lacquer is alive and well, I use it regularly for my cabinet
projects, along with lacquer sealer. Great products for furniture,
But it is much different than auto lacquer.
Furniture lacquer will "ring" if you leave water on it very long,
it would never hold up outside like car lacquer. It will also stick to oil base stain.
There are new improved lacquers now called "pre-catalyzed lacquer"
that are much more durable and water resistant.
Most furniture people are getting away from lacquers just like the
auto people have already done. "Conversion varnish" is replacing it.
The environmentalists are trying to get rid of all lacquer and the mfg's
don't think it will still be made in the near future. They are working on
water based that is gaining popularity, but it looks like the days are
numbered for my favorite furniture lacquer.
12-01-2005 07:00 AM
CaPrI_MaN Around here it's quite easy to get nitrocellulose based paints and clears!
They are used to paint lots of stuff like steel fences, gates and such they are one of the cheapest paint types available around here. There are a few body shops that still use it but most of them nowadays use urethane or acrylic enamel based paints and clears.

Here is tech sheet for a nitrocelluse clear, it's in portuguese so it won't have any interest for most people around here... But it's kind of a way to probe that it still exists and it's legal.

http://www.barbot.pt/Fictec/4240.PDF

If someone wants I will translate it and post here.

Best reagardments,
António Costa

And sorry for any incorrect paint terminology that I've used
11-30-2005 10:28 PM
mrcleanr6 its available here too but as you said for wood finishes. you can get it in any home depot or paint store.
11-30-2005 09:04 PM
jjl Hi Barry,
Nitro is still made here, but only for wood finishes I believe. I am pretty sure it is not available as an automotive finish any more.
The stuff they make today is a modified, pre catalysed nitro, but it still has the characteristics of the old nitro, just a bit tougher.
Our environmental restrictions are not as severe as in the US, but they will get there eventually, whenever the govt work out how to actually profit from it.
11-30-2005 08:34 PM
BarryK nitrocellulose:

I just got to ask, is the Nitrocellulose still made in your country?
Last I seen any was about 20 years ago and used it to spray a door on a 34 Packard. The paint was left over from the original Restoration done in the early 60's.

Now that was a paint!
11-30-2005 08:24 PM
kenseth17 I think it will do fine. Play around with settings and shoot some practice pieces if you get a chance. I've painted a few cars with an old sharpe conventional, 1.7 mm siphon feed and it did okay, although not the best for todays high solids paints. One thing that I did run into a little bit of problems with is metallic control, but if you know how to crosscoat its not that difficult to even out with basecoat. I now have a pressure feed accuspray hvlp I use for base, and don't have to do much evening of metallic with that gun. And of course you will blowing a bit of paint in the air as overspray with a conventional gun.
11-30-2005 07:44 PM
jjl The gun is a conventional gun, hot hvlp.

The guitars are hanging. There is not end hole to attach to so I could stabilize it. The guitars are not the problem, I can deal with the peel no problems. I am just interested in how this gun will perform painting cars. If it is not good enough I will buy another.
Jeremy
11-30-2005 05:37 PM
Bee4Me After you hang it,take an old mic stand and fab a screw pointing up into it and remove the end strap button/screw and screw it into that hole and that should stabilize the body.
This gun a convintional (high psi) or HVLP?
11-30-2005 05:15 PM
kenseth17 I have a 1.5 in the cheap chinese knockoff gravity feed I bought. I haven't had a chance to really test it out much yet. I did spray clear with it on a bumper and fenders and it seemed to do allright. I did get a slight amount of peel, but not that bad. With more experiementing, maybe it will improve even more. 1.5 falls toward the upper end of a lot of paint manufacturers recommendations I believe though. low air pressure is one cause of peel though. What do you mean by if you increase air pressure you will blow the guitars away? Are you talking about them moving around when you spray them. I you hang them to spray, if you can hang from more spots and wires, it will normally move around less when you spray.
11-30-2005 04:31 PM
jjl The gun is a Star model S770. I have two jobs to do, one with acrylic lacquer and the other with urethane.

I am a guitar maker and currently use this gun to spray nitrocellulose onto guitars. It does give a fair bit of orange peel but I cannot increase the air pressure or I will blow the guitars away. I do not want to particularly have to buy another gun just to paint a couple of cars.
11-30-2005 06:36 AM
baddbob It may spray just fine. What kind of paint will you be spraying? I would just shoot some test panels and try choking down your fluid adjustment some. The 1.5 tip is going to give you more fluid volume than a 1.4 or 1.3. If you're getting orange peel try upping your air pressure and decrease your fluid. What brand and model gun-maybe someone here will have good recomendations for you particular gun. Bob
11-30-2005 02:56 AM
jjl
1.5mm tip only. What problems

My spray gun (gravity feed) has only one tip (1.5mm).
What difference will I experience with this instead of the 1.4mm which seems to be the recommended tip for bc/c finishes and how should I best compensate.
Thanks
Jeremy

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