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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-03-2005 04:33 PM
Mrwood
No more welt.

If welting was so good then why did they still rust out. I used small fiber washers between the fender and body on each bolt, and i dont have any squeaks. I would rather have the water run clear through where the gap is than have it build up and rust. Also if you get plenty of paint in that area it will take a lot of time before it ever starts to rust.I have done this on other cars and never had a problem yet. This is just how i do it , and maybe not the way others do it, but it works for me. I am no pro, and far from it. I just find my own way of doing things.
12-03-2005 07:04 AM
baddbob If you bolt them together without the welt I would still use some type of sealer in there to keep the chance of corrosion in that area down to a minimum, these areas were always prone to rusting then the rust creeps out to the exterior.
12-02-2005 11:43 PM
Gr8 '48 bow tie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrwood
I will not use the welt on my 48 fleetline, i just bolted the rear fenders on and then worked them so they fit tight against the body. This got rid of the gap i had, and will look good without the welt. Plus i can take them off if they ever get hit. But dont just bondo the gap, as others have said it wont last long.

I brought this up again because I am still seeking the best way of finishing my '48 Chevrolet Fleetline's body.

Just one question Mrwood, The welting was used to stop body squeaks and rattles so how do you prevent the squeaks and rattles without using welt, bonding or welding them. I would rather have them filled and smooth but I also like the idea of just wrenching them together to fit without a body seam and being able to remove them.

Al
11-26-2005 09:57 PM
Gr8 '48 bow tie Just one question Mrwood, The welting was used to stop body squeaks so how do you prevent body squeaks without using welt, bonding or welding them. I would rather have them filled and smooth but I also like the idea of just wrenching them together to fit without a body seam and being able to remove them.

Al
11-23-2005 04:15 AM
Mrwood
No more welt.

I will not use the welt on my 48 fleetline, i just bolted the rear fenders on and then worked them so they fit tight against the body. This got rid of the gap i had, and will look good without the welt. Plus i can take them off if they ever get hit. But dont just bondo the gap, as others have said it wont last long.
11-23-2005 03:38 AM
adtkart Thanks BOB. One of the things I really like about this site is that there is always soneone here that knows where the site is that I need. LOL

Aaron
11-21-2005 06:54 PM
BondoKing Nice link Bob
11-21-2005 05:53 PM
baddbob http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=930
11-21-2005 12:45 PM
S10xGN A bud uses the 3M panel adhesive and he's hooked. He stuck a bunch of (steel) pieces together on his show quality '66 Nova. Because of how nice it works he's pretty much forgone his MIG, saving it for chassis work.

Russ
11-21-2005 07:11 AM
baddbob I agree! Panel adhesive would be an excellent way to attach them fenders then blend them in with filler.
11-21-2005 12:11 AM
MARTINSR Hold on here buckaroo, I told Russ to use the panel bonding adhesive because he has glass fenders and that is the ONLY way you could do it.

I was not saying for you to use the adhesive. HOWEVER, now that you bring it up, heck, yeah I could see that.

Brian
11-20-2005 10:23 PM
Gr8 '48 bow tie Thanks MARTINSR, I will look into the panel bonding instead. I had not thought of that, although I will have to learn how its done. Is it applied like fiberglass ie: rosin and fiber?

Al
11-20-2005 05:24 PM
MARTINSR Russ, that is a whole different monkey. By bonding it you are in effect, "welding" it. If you do that properly, there is a very good chance of success.

Use a panel bonding adhesive and then try the new "Fiber Tech" byEvercoat for smoothing the two together. It has short and long strand Kevlar strands. I spent a lot of time talking with the guys from the tech department at Evercoat at NACE. Heard some amazing stuff about Fiber Tech.


Al, if you weld the whole seam you can smooth them out with plastic filler. I would use a reinforced filler like Evercoat Kitty hair, Everglass or Fiber Tech. But you better be ready with this project. I is not at much work of course, but think of it as chopping the top. It is a LOT more work than some little dents and some small patch panels.

Plan on mig welding it, gas back in that corner will produce a LOT of heat on the quarter. Even miging you will likely get some warpage you will need to deal with.

Brian
11-20-2005 01:17 PM
S10xGN Yeah, I'd like to know too. I'm planning on gluing the 'glass fenders on my '47 Ford with 3M body adhesive and then "bondoing" the joint smooth.

Brian, you're always throwing a monkey wrench in my plan of attack!

Russ
11-19-2005 08:32 PM
Gr8 '48 bow tie Poncho62, you said that I might not want to weld the joints. If they are welded will that still cause problems? I have seen a few cars that were filled and smoothed which looks really nice, but I have not talked to anyone until now about it. Is there a way to do it without causing myself problems?

MARTINSR, No I will not have it blasted with sand as that would ruin it. I was shown a media that they use, it is a light gray powder like substance somewhat like very fine sand, I can not remember what its called. They were cleaning the blasting room when I visited them. The floor was covered with very fine powder which they said was the remnant of the media. The body work I was referring to is a few dings and dents that I want to do after its blasted. I do however have to cut some rusted areas in the left front floor panel and the trunk floor and door sills. Other than that the car is very solid and straight.

Al
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