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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> laid the paint down fine,downhill from there!
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-22-2002 12:25 AM
GIRLWITHTHANOVA DO YOU KNOW OF ANY PAINT SHOPS THAT RENT THIER BOOTHS IN CALIFORNIA?
NEAR VALLEJO OR SACRAMENTO AREAS? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
04-25-2002 07:40 AM
dinger hey hking, i appreciate the thought, i'll keep this in mind. dan
04-24-2002 11:54 PM
Halloweenking Dinger, if you can't find it at a affordable/decent price let me know. I can probably get it for you and just get it sent UPS. done it before for a bro in colorado.
04-24-2002 10:25 PM
dinger thanks for the help, guys. i've got the painting down pretty good, the first one that went dry was because the paint was dam near evaporating as it hit the surface, temp was about 100 that day, no humidity. no orange peel, just had no shine, kind of primer look..lol. i used the slow thinner, made no difference. i'm new to the water based stuff, i did one job but it was a good 10-12 years ago. technology i'm sure has changed a few times since. i hope i can find it cheaper, 300 a gallon should come with a spray gun..lol. ca is a cool place to live most of the time but we pave the way for a lot of idiotic laws sometimes. i should have bought the paint when i was in las vegas for the nhra drags a month ago, wish i would have thought of it then.
04-24-2002 07:40 PM
4 Jaw Chuck One of the things you will find is that the new water based paints are meant to go on with HVLP guns as opposed to the old air atomized Binks/DeVilbiss style venturi guns. The paints are thicker and cover in only a few coats as opposed to a metallic Centauri which needed many coats to cover. The other thing you will find is that most of these paints are part of a system and mixing and matching primers, topcoats and clears is not advisable. Stick with one manufacturers system and you will have good results. The other item of interest is that most systems nowadays include a clear topcoat, this topcoat can be thought of a suntan lotion for the paint and should be applied unless the Mfg says it is safe to omit it. Maybe you would be better off ordering some "classic" paints from outside the state to reflect your equipment investment. One of the reasons for the higher costs for the paint is with a HVLP application method you won't need as much paint to finish the car, the overspray ratio is much lower and the number of coats is less.

[ April 24, 2002: Message edited by: 4 Jaw Chuck ]</p>
04-24-2002 12:25 AM
Halloweenking Heat is good yes, heat will allow your paint to "bake on" and with vetalation it will also draw the vapors out of the paint and at a high enough temp also helps to smooth the paint finish, what you did in the past is refferd to as "orange peel" thats the lack of paint applied or spraying to far away from the surface. 2 stage paint is the easiest to apply, I've always used PPG, its easy to use and spray, and its not very exspensive, I've nevver been to CA but I think your paint guy is a ripoff, I painted my entire 1969 charger the original dodge pea green, door jams trunk underhood and exterior for under $250 including thinner, clear, and buffing wheel and compound. Painting two stage paint is relatively simple, prepare your booth or spraying area (I.E. wet the floor sweegie it etc. etc. mix it spray 6-8 inches from the surface, keep your wrist straight, move with the gun don't stretch, paint the car one section at a time (front middle then rear, or vise versa) depending on the paint is how you apply it, with PPG I've always done two light coats then a heavier last coat to cover it,(remember 2 stage paint, the first stage isn't supposed to look shiny, just one color) give it flash time then clear it, you can color sand between coats of clear but if you lay on a smooth coat its not really nessasary, do however many coats of clear you would like. let the paint cure (depending on paint, is how long until you buff) (ask the guy you buy it from for the cure time on the paint before you buff it) and buff, after you buff use swirl remover, sit back in a beach chair in your driveway and smile really big and wave at the people passing by looking at your ride

Let me know how it turns out or if you need any other help.

[ April 24, 2002: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]

[ April 24, 2002: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]</p>
04-23-2002 11:07 PM
dinger ok, i have some questions...i moved to ca. from minn. 25 years ago, had to learn how to paint all over again with the heat we have here. first job i did was way dry, turned out dull, pebbly looking because i didn't lay it on thick enough. i was advised to paint in the morning, before noon. did this, using mostly centari, r&m acrylics, jobs turned out nice. now i'm getting ready to paint my tbucket, haven't painted for 10 years, now i find out no more enamels, lacquers, ca. has banned them. the last job i did was 2 stage, it's neat stuff, what i'm going to have to use again. heat is good? i'll be looking at 90s temps, dry heat. how is the new stuff flow compared to the old? i don't have a lot of area to cover but i don't want to do it twice, this stuff is way expensive. any reccomendations on brands to use, the guy i bought the primer from says he has uno brand, $300 a gallon. makes me afraid to ask how much a quart..lol. less expensive would be nice. thanks, dan
04-23-2002 08:44 PM
Halloweenking It would work well in a carport, you just have to sit a layer of plastic under the top before you paint, the debree in the ceiling of the carport is a hazard, but if you do use a carport, you will need lots of ventalation and it has to be a hot/very warm day since your painting in the shade, I usually start taping at 10am and start to spray around 12:30 1 pm during the hottest part of the day. for vetalation you can use regular house fans I've seen them used often but keep them far enough away not to catch fresh spray, some have used old blower motors from heaters and just reversed it, whattever they can dig up. As for walls, you can put filters up, its actually better but not alot of people like the work. Go to a home depot or lows and get some filters, they are usually sold in a box containing 100 18" square filters just duct tape them together to make up your walls, they are made of course woven fibers they are usually a light seafoam color. As for the floor, unless you have a downdraft paint booth yes, soak your floor, it keeps whats down there down there and it attracts loose dust and dirt and keeps it there, if your floor isn't smooth, squeegie it off first so you don't have any splash up on your paint, if you do no worries most of it will evaporate and the rest you can color sand smooth. Always paint with a mask on, I use a 3M double filter version, you can get one for $45, never paint or letr fresh paint out below 70 degrees F, the clear will turn cloudy, the warmer the better, the dryer the better. So pick your painting days well and you'll have a good clean job.
04-23-2002 08:09 PM
WoodsEdge The plastic paint booth works great IF you have ventilation and filters. Learned this hard way years ago. I painted a car with no ventilation, looked great first couple of days then small craters began appearing. By the next day it was covered. I contacted PPG and was told that the solvent did not have time to evaporate befor the paint skimed over. I bought an explosion proof fan motor and use cheap furnace filters. The only problem I have now is with the painter, me. Hope this helps, Jack
04-23-2002 05:13 PM
tm454 Great idea this plastic paint booth. I wonder how it would work with a car port? How do you suggest it be ventilated? should the floor be wet down before painting? Is the time of day important, less dust in the morning, with the moisture?
04-23-2002 03:44 PM
jimm aieeeee chihuaha !!! hubba hubba ! i sanded it w/1200[and sanded it and sanded it] then buffed with 1200 finishing com[pound, then 2000 compound,holy mackerel andy!thanks guys for the encouragement!halloweenking thanks for the makeshift booth idea,i am all fired up to build a shop[two parts ,1/2 mech.,1/2 paint room]anyway the enormous!! amount of trash is 99.95% gone and the door has set some tough standards for the rest of the vehicle,see ya! jimm
04-22-2002 08:28 PM
Halloweenking Jimm, I know how you feel, here in SC the pollen is so bad my black car looks dark green, and if you don't wash it off every other day it embeds itsellf into our paint, heres two ideas to get your car painted without all the nasties and those pesky winged kamakazi bugs. Alot of bodyshops will rent out there paint booths for a small fee, shops around here charge $75 for 8 hours, if its a nice paint booth you won't need 8 hours after you paint it and turn on the heat it should be ready within 2.5-3. Or you could look for a trade school that teaches Auto body/painting, if you ask nicely they will usually let you use it for free, or maby a small fee just to feel as if they are apart of it somehow. Before I found a trade school I built my own makeshift booth from some 4x4's concreate block and some steel grate on the floor sheetrock for the walls coverd in aluminum flashing and some clear plastic for the top sealed with duct tape. fill the steel grate with water or just cover the floor, the steel grate adds little pockets so your feet don't splash the water up, but those pockets stop alot of the dust and pollen, add a small fan and a hot day and you good to go.
04-22-2002 04:45 PM
jimm 4jawchuck,halloweenking,racenuts,howdy! thanks a lot guys for the encouragement/advice!i appreciate both i'm painting doors[2] and hood under my house but the pollen from the oaks is not be believed here in arkansas.so, i'm going to wait before painting the body,luckily there is no top[k5 blazer with the top off]i've already started doing what you all suggested as regards color sand/buff and it looks like i will only have acouple of spots that iwont be able to erase,and thats because i'm scared to sand or buff through[that dang paint's expensive!]thanks again and when i finish this project i'll try to get pictures where you can view them[suicide bug tracks included]see ya!jimm
04-21-2002 08:45 PM
Racenuts I've had to paint several cars "outdoors" and the only thing I use is lacquer. It dries fast enough to keep the typical trash out of the paint. Anything that does find its way can be color sanded out and buffed to a mirror finish. The plastic helps alot also but there will always be that one suicide bug that will land on your new paint job and crawl itself to death! Good Luck!

Racenuts

[ April 21, 2002: Message edited by: Racenuts ]</p>
04-21-2002 04:38 PM
Halloweenking I agree with 4 jaw chuck, I am I-car certified body tech. just let it cure and see what happens, usually the paint will cure and sometimes if your lucky the debree settles to the top or near it depending on the amount and size of the debree you can color sand it to death and get it smooth as glass, wash it down with some dish detergent to get all of the oils off laid down my your skin, enclose your prodject with some duct tape and some clear plastic for visability and sunlight, and if you have a house fan turn it outward so it blows most of the ooverspray and fumes outside so you can see and so the overspray doesn't settle on your slick paint, if you've got some of those cheap emergency blankets make the sides out of that(shiny side in) and the top out of clear plastic, this will get some heat in there (it helps if it gets a chill in the air). When spraying keep your wrist straight and the gun about 6-8" away, spray two light coats and then a heavier coat for the last, it should turn out like a peach. Let me know if you have any questions, and how it turns out
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